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Sept 11, 2009 12:12:21 GMT
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Hey guys! Boot all finished, welded, painted etc and want to put some carpeting/finish to it so I can move on happy that the boot needs no more attention. In the boot will be gel battery, amp, small 8" sub, tool rack + jack and swirl pot. Question is, what is everyone experience with the difference between dynamat products and flashing tape? As you can see the boot is ridged so installation may be tricky, a nice maleable product will help. A good underlay and then thick pile carpet will be whacked down after. I'm really just after everyone's experience with their sound deadening solutions. Should I keep the quality dynamat for the cabin and "settle" for flashing tape in the boot/bonnet? Installation pics would be MORE than welcome Thanks guys! Chris
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2009 12:15:09 GMT by Diabolu
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Sept 11, 2009 12:17:14 GMT
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I have used flashing tape a few times and never had problems. Its easy enough to form onto the ridges if you apply it using a heat gun to soften it a little and I found a wee plastic roller was ideal for pressing it on. I never noticed any real world difference between it and dynamat performance-wise.
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1986 Panda 4x4. 1990 Metro Sport. 1999 Ford Escort estate.
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Sept 11, 2009 12:18:51 GMT
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Flashing seems to work well.Also the cheaper dynamat style stuff on ebay works. Both are very malleable after applying heat and flatten well with a wallpaper roller or a socket etc. TBH though,i wouldn't bother with carpet and underlay until you've installed everything you need to,ran the wires and finished drilling holes etc then had it out in the rain to see where it leaks.....because it will.
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Sound Proofing SolutionsDarrenW
@darrenw
Club Retro Rides Member 74
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Sept 11, 2009 12:44:28 GMT
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I did all the back of my Kangoo with flashing from Wickes, with a small gloss roller it moulded into the ridges (like your floor) perfectly
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Sept 11, 2009 14:26:24 GMT
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1951 Split Window Beetle - SOLD! 1965 Mercedes 230SL 1966 VW Beetle 1968 Mercedes 280SE
1972 VW 412LE Variant - SOLD! err.... 2004 Toyota Corolla
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Sept 11, 2009 16:39:39 GMT
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Heat the deadening mats first it makes em a lot more plyable then use a wallpaper seam roller (solid plastic thing for squashing the joins in wallpaper like a paint roller with the foam missing) to push em into the shapes in the floor, did me camper that way very easy to do, i used the cars heater to warm the sheets, only takes 2 or 3 mins per sheet.
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R.I.P photobucket
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berny
Part of things
Posts: 295
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Sept 11, 2009 17:51:40 GMT
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I've used good old flash band many times with great results, mainly from being the young scrote on the block with the stupidly loud stereo system (and to think i was once proud of the fact, hangs head in shame ) not sure on the actual effect on noise coming from outside the car tho but it definitely helps with panel flex and unwanted vibrations, and the misses's hairdryer is a must when fitting soundproofing
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Sept 11, 2009 21:01:24 GMT
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Great info so far guys! Thanks! Anyone got any installation photos?
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Sept 11, 2009 21:31:13 GMT
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I've used Ice-Guard equivalent from Wikkes before. Loads on a roll for very little money. It is designed as an underlay for under the gritty roofing felt. Bit thinner than Dynomat, but cheap enough to put two layers down and still save.
Adhesive on one side and flexi with a little heat.
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Sept 12, 2009 22:12:16 GMT
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Nice, didn't realise the sound proofing was that cheap on ebay, might grab a pack off there for the sake of £15 and see how it goes! On a second note, should i try to pull up the bitchimen sound proofing in the cabin and replace, add new stuff over the top, or leave as is? Chris
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Sept 13, 2009 16:53:12 GMT
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The MR2 I bought had soundproofing professionally fitted for 300quid. The dope before me removed half (to 'save weight'), but I took the rest when I sold it (car was being broken). It makes a big difference, it's sticky backed for vertical surfaces, but just put it in each section liberally.
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Sept 14, 2009 20:48:14 GMT
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Sept 15, 2009 1:33:00 GMT
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My 1970 VW Beetle has the original tar boards covering the entire floor, rear firewall and engine bay. The centre tunnel is covered in horsehair-type brown fibrous material. If I ripped it all out and replaced it with a single layer of this modern adhesive Dynamat-style stuff, what would the real-world difference be? Has anyone done it? Would it be significantly lighter and/or quieter? I'd be interested in light-weight solutions for the car, but I don't really want to make it even louder than it already is.
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Sept 15, 2009 7:15:48 GMT
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My soarer is like that as standard I can crank the Alpine up to 30, and you can only hear a faint buzz outside the car.
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Sept 15, 2009 8:48:17 GMT
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I'd leave it on if there's no problem with it.
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