markbognor
South East
 
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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A bit rough and ready at the mo, but you get the idea. It'll have infra red remote control, for control of each corner as well as for set patterns. Just watched the vid, its a bit curse word but you'll get the idea.  |
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,409
Club RR Member Number: 52
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I likes it!! Very clever!
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where did u get the kit from??
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Cheers,
The body is a 1/25 amt kit, the chassis is scratch built, independent front, and live axel rear "suspension" connected with a linkage to the micro servos horns. Its run from a custom made, by me PIC circuit, programmed in picaxe basic. I ran out of time this afternoon to get the sevos throw even, whic is why the full drop is a bit lopsided.
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bigrod
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,654
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That's way too clever!!!  |
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If I have to explain, you won't understand.
Maximum signature image height = 80 pixels
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Must be great for your kids to have a teacher who's still interested in making fun stuff, my CDT teacher was a bit straight laced but appreciated what did, and was always fixing MG bits up while we got on!  Nice one, so whats next, are ya planning to add a little scale weight, to make teh bounce and thud more like the big version, I like the roboic feel to it though, always cute, and eerie, robots! |
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 it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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 As of half an hour ago I have front and rear drop mid lift and side to side, controlled from a tv style infrared remote. Also having some clearence and packaging issues with the body. Its a bit twitchy because i think the servos are interfering with the chip, I could split their power supply to prevent this, but then i'll need two battery packs. I might try a diode between the power connections for the servos and the chip to see if i can filter out the interference.      Rean' alot of the time the kids don't really notice what I'm up to, athough there has been a fair bit of intrest in this. Lots of stupid comments like make it flip and they all seem a bit dissapointed that it doesn't drive as well. |
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Yeah that sounds like kids LOL I mean as well though that the kids with interest will benefit from your help and enthusiasm, but yeah they always expect the moon on a stick, it prob does go in as inspiration though I bet.  Blimey the battery pack really give an idea of scale, micro machine, good luck getting it all stuffed in, could aways go for plinth 'Ghetto scene' or desk hidden power supply powered etc? |
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Yeah that sounds like kids LOL I mean as well though that the kids with interest will benefit from your help and enthusiasm, but yeah they always expect the moon on a stick, it prob does go in as inspiration though I bet. Blimey the battery pack really give an idea of scale, micro machine, good luck getting it all stuffed in, could aways go for plinth 'Ghetto scene' or desk hidden power supply powered etc? I'm really tring to avoid using a remote power supply, it kind of defeats the object of using the pic and the infra red remote. I'm going to see if there are some half size camera batteries i could use, or make up some half size rechargables into a pack the fits the space. |
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Stick a roofrack on the body and lash the batteries to it?
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1969 Land Rover Series IIa
1980 MG Midget (bro's)
1981 Land Rover Series III
1981 Mini 'Cooper'
1982 Mini HL
1983 Mini Sprite
1987 Mini Advantage
1994 Mini Sprite auto (oil leak left as standard)
2002 Alfa Romeo 147
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Tefal
Part of things
Posts: 514
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thats just ace, id also love you job often regret not going down the teaching route
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,409
Club RR Member Number: 52
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Could you not just use a 9V battery?? Forgot the code but you know what I mean! Your a DT teacher you should know its all about the packaging!!
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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I haven't built a voltage regulator into the circuit and the max i can run the chip at is 6v, a PP3 is 9v. They can also only supply a low current, which is why they are used in smoke alarms ect, they would run flat very quickly in a relitively high current situation like this. I've got everything nicely inside the shell now, i choped up a four cell holder to make it three cells in an L shape. The pcb fits in this cut out and over the front servos. Here's where i'm at:  |
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I'm amazed how much youve done from scratch, amazing stuff, ur a legend
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Sorted, Now stick a miniture V8 in in!  |
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Cheers,
The fabbing is helped a lot by having the laser cutter on hand. Its a case of visualising what i want to make and working out how it can be made from 3mm acrylic slotted together (a bit like one of those wooden diosaurs). Then i draw in on a 3mm grid (so when i draw the cut outs they are the same thickness as the plastic that will slot in) on a peice of cad software and send it to the laser, load the plastic and press the go button.
The chassis took two goes, i remade the rear end to provide some more clearence for the servos and to get a bit more drop.
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Ether
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,450
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Woah! You sneaky badger - I didn't even notice this thread. looking' very cool. You need some little weighs in the boot to bring up that three |
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Looks great! Regarding the packaging, what about positioning the rear servos so that they are behind the axle, in the boot space? I reckon that this would then give enough space for the batteries inside the main body.
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,409
Club RR Member Number: 52
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That is fricking ace!!
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Yeah, if i was doing it again i'd probably mount the servos behind the axle, or a special battery pack, cordless phone battery maybe. The boot floor would need to taper upwards to follow the line of the body, which would have made it a bit harder to make, and the chassis over the axle would also have to be more substantial to take the weight.
I'm not really sure how i want to progress now, i've really enjoyed the making of the chassis, circuit and proggraming. Which is what i saw as the most challenging part. I think i've got the movement to a realistic enough level, and like matt says a little weight in the boot would bring the three wheel straight up. So i guess the next step is mounting the body and getting it in paint. Which i know i will curse word up because i don't have the patience to prep it and carry out the painting properly, then i'll hamfistedly try to add the detail and it will all just look a mess.
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Nice one, so whats next, are ya planning to add a little scale weight, to make teh bounce and thud more like the big version, I like the roboic feel to it though, always cute, and eerie, robots! 
