rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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yey!!! ;D this is my new retro. This is the reason why I had to scrap the micra (wasnt allowed 2 curse word-tips on the drive  )    Since Ive had it ive found plenty of work to get it in a fit state for an mot. I need to fix: kill lots of tin worm fix broken dynamo fix seized breaks - Done fix seized clutch - Done fix snapped handbrake cable -Done fix bad earth at rear And thats what ive about found atm. plans are: convert to neg earth big engine very low black paint black tints disc brake conversion coilover conversion roll cage bucket seats ;D anywaysss, work so far: BRAKES[/b] I havnt touched the back yet, but ive nearly done the fronts. All 4 pistons were seized so I put them in some warm oil for a couple of hours:  Then using a bleed nipple and an air line I poped the pistons out:  I got 3 done but 1 will not budge so I'm gonna have to buy a new one. As for the other 3, I gave the bores a light sanding. I'm waiting till I can go out and buy some new brake pipe and another brake slave cylinder. Ive also got the master cylinder to strip down and rebuild. DYNAMO[/b] Offending item  after following the haynes manual I decided to throw it in bin (not! cost bloody £10  ) and I stripped it down and check the bushes, cleaned up the commutator and checked the windings for visual damage. non was seen and I had little resistance (6ohms) on them. So I rebuilt it and set up to test the voltage and ampage. The setup  zoom zoom   I got around 3volts and 3 amps, so not good. I'm wanting to convert to an altenator aswell so this gives me good reason to And thats about it so far.... |
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Last Edit: May 18, 2011 17:56:10 GMT by rtlkyuubi
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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if that turns out half as cool as the k10 - it will WIN!!!
- kev
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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there used to be a way to polarise a dynamo to get it back to spec by putting voltage through it somehow.... maybe a googlefu will resurrect that dynamo till you can afford the alternatot
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,513
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That dynamo pulley is on the wrong way round  Also, how fast did you spin it? Dynamos don't really provide any charge unless an engine is doing 1000rpm+ and the dynamo pulley is smaller than the crank pulley so would I guess be going at least 1500rpm. But I guess that won't matter if you convert to an alternator.  Cool poject |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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That dynamo pulley is on the wrong way round Also, how fast did you spin it? Dynamos don't really provide any charge unless an engine is doing 1000rpm+ and the dynamo pulley is smaller than the crank pulley so would I guess be going at least 1500rpm. But I guess that won't matter if you convert to an alternator. Cool poject I didnt think it looked right but it was too cold to go outside and line it up with the braket and belt in the haynes manual it says that its pointless going above 750rpm (fast idle) as it will give inaccurate readings. |
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,513
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I didnt think it looked right but it was too cold to go outside and line it up with the braket and belt in the haynes manual it says that its pointless going above 750rpm (fast idle) as it will give inaccurate readings. Just had a look in one of my Haynes. Yep, engine idle of 750 though the dynamo would be spinning faster due to pulley ratios. But also I'm not sure the way you've hooked it up in the photos is conisistent with the manual (though it is difficult to see in the photos so I may well be wrong!) It says to join the two terminals together and put one probe on that joining wire and the other probe to earth on the dynamo yoke which appears to be the cylindrical body of the dynamo. Sorry, not meaning to be difficult - You've got me thinking about bench testing the one I just took off the Minx! |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Do your parents know what you're doing to their cookware? Boil some brake cylinders in oil, empty the pan, put in dishwasher, walk away whistling innocently. No one's any the wiser. Like it ;D I think you're onto a winner with this project; much sexier base-car than the Micra (IMO of course), oodles of potential. |
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1989 Peugeot 205. You know, the one that was parked in a ditch on the campsite at RRG'17... the glass is always full. but the ratio of air to water may vary. |
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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I didnt think it looked right but it was too cold to go outside and line it up with the braket and belt in the haynes manual it says that its pointless going above 750rpm (fast idle) as it will give inaccurate readings. Just had a look in one of my Haynes. Yep, engine idle of 750 though the dynamo would be spinning faster due to pulley ratios. But also I'm not sure the way you've hooked it up in the photos is conisistent with the manual (though it is difficult to see in the photos so I may well be wrong!) It says to join the two terminals together and put one probe on that joining wire and the other probe to earth on the dynamo yoke which appears to be the cylindrical body of the dynamo. Sorry, not meaning to be difficult - You've got me thinking about bench testing the one I just took off the Minx! I thought it ment connecting the wires together and then connecting the multimeter to the wires and the other end on the yoke. but I now I think about it, your way seems a better idea Do your parents know what you're doing to their cookware? Boil some brake cylinders in oil, empty the pan, put in dishwasher, walk away whistling innocently. No one's any the wiser. Like it ;D I had to go and buy my own pan like |
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2008 7:45:03 GMT by rtlkyuubi
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sky
Part of things
Posts: 164
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That is a very cool little ride dude !!!!!!!! Plans sound good .
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nice ride! definite upgrade there
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Remade In Australia
thereimaginarium.com.au
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I love these, I had one years ago. A++++
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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pbottomley
Posted a lot
If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving isnt for you
Posts: 1,135
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I am impressed with the soak it in oil routine ;D just don't do chips after....
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I had a Viva HA Deluxe 90 as a first car. The 90 bit meant it had the high compression "red" engine with Stromberg CD carb instead of a Solex, i think it also had a remote brake servo as well. Great car. I remember distinctly that there was a bell in the indicator mechanism which used to go "ding" when the indicators cancelled!! Sadly mine was very rotten so was scrapped.
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Was well impressed when I saw the replacement for the red tub. Excellent find there young man  - got a shedload of potential and I'm sure you'll take it to the limit. Good luck with this one. Watching and waiting....... John |
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Nov 10, 2008 21:29:20 GMT
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Thanks for the replies ;D anywayss time for an update:   Wellers ftw!! ;D ;D ;D BOOT LOCKWhen i got the car the boot lock mechanism was taken off. After playing with it, it worked fine so there must be something wrong with the lock. After consulting with Mr Haynes I took the lock off the boot. I dismantled it and found out why it was broken:  The metal snapped where the locking pin goes though to lock the boot.  Curing the liquid metal that I used to stick some new metal to it.  all done BRAKES Pt2I got some brake pipe and lent a flairing tool off a mate so now i can make some new brake pipes. 1.  Drill out the old siezed brake pipe (if reusing) 2.  Cut new brake pipe to correct length using the correct tool! 3.  Push ends onto the pipe. 4.  Set up the flairing tool by attching to something solid and fitting the right dye and tap 5.  insert pipe and clamp down 6.  push lever till it stops 7.  You should be left with this. Repeat on the other end to achive:  8.  bend to correct shape  The short ones go from the flexy to the 1st slave cylinder. The long pipes go from 1 slave cylinder to the other. 9.  Tidy up!!!! ;D  And have a brew. WATER PUMPWhen i got some correct fuel for the car i started it and had it running for a bit till I herd water bubling in the top radiator hose. I quickly turned it off and let it cool down. Something must be blocked.  not too bad  opps! when the pump was on the car i took off the bottom hose off the pump and found that but there was no hole!!! Should of used calgon tablets! ;D  engine block. YUM RUST Pt1 (of 500) o/s/f valance  o/s/f Sill  o/s/f wing  n/s/f wing  o/s/f scuttle panel  n/s/f sill  n/s/r boot floor / petrol tank floor  boot lid  o/s/r boot floor / spare wheel floor. Well then best crack on! I started on the n/s/r boot panel 1st:   CHOP  CHOP CHOP  CHOP CHOP CHOP = big hole  And lots of mess!  1st new home made panel. |
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Nov 10, 2008 21:35:35 GMT
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cool fab. work,and ultra cool car
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Use the diesel for washing your kegs in. The diesel will lubricate the cotton fibres and make them last longer although your nads will honk of diesel. Also don't use red diesel for this for obvious reasons. |
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Neil
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,485
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Nov 10, 2008 21:46:58 GMT
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good on ya for getting properly stuck in! keep up the good work, dude
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Nov 10, 2008 21:53:37 GMT
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nice!!. why do all the good cars rust  |
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fuel
Part of things
Turbo-Jet
Posts: 352
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Nov 10, 2008 22:04:06 GMT
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Nice work! I hope you're not going to run with those Wellers on though, 4x100mm wheels on a 4x4" (101.6mm) Viva wont be doing any good for the wheelstuds.
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  VR-4 :: GSR |
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Nov 10, 2008 23:03:23 GMT
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as long as the weldings better than what it looked on the micra I'm sure you should be ok, good luck ;-)
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) 
) and I stripped it down and check the bushes, cleaned up the commutator and checked the windings for visual damage. non was seen and I had little resistance (6ohms) on them. So I rebuilt it and set up to test the voltage and ampage.
Also, how fast did you spin it? Dynamos don't really provide any charge unless an engine is doing 1000rpm+ and the dynamo pulley is smaller than the crank pulley so would I guess be going at least 1500rpm. But I guess that won't matter if you convert to an alternator. 
- got a shedload of potential and I'm sure you'll take it to the limit.
