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Jun 22, 2015 13:05:50 GMT
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Cheers mate. Once I have the loom back I'll let you know if I get stuck.
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Speedle
Posted a lot
Need a Country Rock band in the Hampshire Area? https://www.facebook.com/DirtRoadDiaryUK
Posts: 2,221
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Jun 22, 2015 13:55:56 GMT
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not sure how I missed this! awesome build up, looking forward to seeing the engine in place! Excellent progress so far.
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Jul 11, 2015 17:34:56 GMT
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 Time to fit this new solid fork mount, don't have access to a press or removal tools so I went ahead and used a 30mm hole saw and then pushed the new one in with some grease and a vice.   The SRi/BX box I'm using had a selector arm fitted which I wouldn't be able to use. Drove the pin out using a punch and pulled the old arm away, be sure to have the box upside down at this point so nothing falls inside.   Correct arm taken from another GTi BE3 box now fitted.  New genuine plugs and speedo drive seal for the box. Not sure if I will be using the reverse switch yet.  Removed the old drive shaft seal (PITA, wish I knew a quicker and cleaner way of removing these).   New seal fitted!  Time to swap the speed sensor over to the 3-pin dual type. I first removed the speedo drive cog from the existing setup.  Then pushed into the new dual unit.  Ready to go!  Got myself a brand new genuine VAG '710N' recirc valve. The latest version to date is the '710P' which is used on the Audi RS6, but these are unable to hold boost as well as the N versions.  Next I noticed this ring on the end of the crank, wasn't sure if the BE3 input shaft would fit inside this. Possible only something found on the auto turbo blocks.  Definitely not, as the input shaft is around 15mm.  Luckily these are easy to remove with a screwdriver as they are made of plastic!  Went to fit the clutch and pressure plate and made the silly mistake of over-tightening the bolts, which then sheared off inside the flywheel.  Luckily I was able to remove this by drilling a 3mm pilot hole and hammered a 4mm allen key in, then remove by hand. |
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Jul 14, 2015 14:13:12 GMT
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Alarming amount of progress! Keep it up
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 Final coolant plumbing diagram.  63mm > 60mm reducer (turbo to intake pipework) & high tensile m7 bolts for the clutch cover.  The plan is to run this on the intake pipework to dump the recirc'd air back in, near the turbo.  FPR blue vacuum. I'll get round to the other vac hoses once the engine is in the car.  This bracket on the dipstick tube holds the oil filler tower in place. Unfortunately the lower silicone hose now catches on this as it's thicker than the original pipework.  Easy to resolve with some cutting and smoothing, using a dremel. Then touched up with black paint to protect the metal.  Got round to configuring the VEMS 'Round' AFR/EGT gauge. I won't be using the narrowband output until I run aftermarket management. AFR showing between 14-15 when holding in the tailpipe of another car, so I'm fairly confident it will read ok.  Configuring the EGT sensor using ice and boiling water. I'm now seeing 100 degrees between the two and will need to use the correct offset to show 0 on ice.  Figured out my ideal calibration (specific to each sensor and gauge). Burn to ECU! |
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Feb 22, 2016 10:23:20 GMT
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Feb 22, 2016 10:25:46 GMT
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Dave
South East
Posts: 74
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How's this going? Any updates?
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