Post by plasticfantastic on Feb 9, 2014 16:36:53 GMT
I now have my hands on a new pair of rear audi 80 1.6 discs, 245mm diameter (i will turn down to 240mm later), 10mm thick. I presumed it would be 4x100mm being audi but they are 4x108mm, ishould have checked before hand! its not a major issue as a little touch with the die grinder and they slid right on. I still need to pop it in the lathe and open the centre up a little as its sitting about 1mm off the hub at the moment. With it all in place i made a rough cardboard template of the bracket then cut it out of 8mm alloy. It's now fitten to the caliper and i will finish fitting it to the upright once i have machined the disk.
Today i decided to have a ago at the front wishbone/steering bracket as i hope to refit all the front soon to check fitment. As posted in the link by Darkspeed, i have started to adapt the bracket to drop the front pivot points by 1 1/4", I'm hoping to then drop the pivots in the front armby the same amount to regain the ground clearance. I held the bracket under the car earlier and the support i put between the two extended pivots is pretty flush with the floor of the car.
What about going with your current setup, but adding a brake bias controller or a proportioning valve (most utes have them), to adjust how much fluid is going to the front or rear? Then it wouldn't matter what size the fronts vs rears were, you could adjust to the best feel.
I have no idea on actual sizes of pistons, but ive just reconditioned my Daughters BMW Mini coopers brakes...and the front callipers were about that size.......probably used in other BMW cars near you!
I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
Post by plasticfantastic on Feb 11, 2014 20:18:13 GMT
Sciclone, i do plan for the pedalbox to be bias adjustable so it will help as you say.
mdh, I realise i don't need anymore stopping power than the drums,my main reason to switch is drums have less maintainance and i have never lived with a car with them soitwould just be something new to learn.
If its recommended to fit 14lf's alround, what do you do on the rear for a handbrake?
For now i plan to stick with the 4 pot fronts but i will head to the scrappies to find something better for the rear.
Today i got the last few front end parts ready to bolt back on to do a dry fit hopefully tomorrow. I cleaned up the steering arms and stripped the steering rack. Does anyone know of any ball joints that have the same taper as the imp steering arms? I need to replace them but its around £90 to replace the 2 then an extra £30 to upgrade the inner bushes to poly bushes. Id like to fit the poly bushes to this set then to cut off the original ball joints and put a thread on the arm ready for the new ball joint. The taper of the original imp one is around 13.5mm - 11.5mm and about 13mm long.
I have used extended bolts to drop the steering rack 1 1/4" the same amount i have dropped the front pivot points. At the moment i amusing nuts to space the rack but i will make alloy spacers eventually. I have also made a pair of plates that acted as drilling jigs so i could drill the new pivot points in the right position, but these will also be welded in position once the otherwelds are done. The extra thickness around the pivots will stop them from opening up over time. With the mount now ready for fit up i decided to drop the pivots in the front arms to gain back a bit og ground clearance plus itwill make the pivotpoints stronger and a little neater.
i've read some articles which claim drums actually perform BETTER than equivalent sized disks just due to surface area and self servo effect of leading shoe setup, this is purely braking effort of course.
disks are superior in terms of cooling, so whilst not as much stopping power, they will stop repeatedly without over heating, and also superior self cleaning, easier maintenance (pad swapping)
I've seen a couple of handbrake options - 1 use hydraulics and hope the mot man is short sighted 2 some shoes that run inside the bell of the disc a la Porsche 944 3 a 90 degree lever pivoting off the caIeper mount with some friction material on o e end
Post by plasticfantastic on Feb 17, 2014 19:43:09 GMT
Sorry no pictures of progress but its much the same as you have seen before, more grinding! I have taken out the engine and box, the rear cross member is off and almost finished being cleaned up ready for seam welding. I have stripped out some old repairs from the cross member mount and today i spent the day grinding inside the pieces of mk3 front and rear, thinning itall down ready to piece it all back together.
After finally deciding on my engine setup, a 1020cc imp block with a kawasaki zx7r head fitted. I was also planning to add a supercharger and a turbo into the mix for fun, my aim was only around 130bhp but the big spanner in the mix at the moment is the transaxle. I don't think the imp transaxle will take it as standard and I'm looking at 1000's to have one built which is way out of my budget.
I'm feeling pretty lost on what to sling in the back of her now? because the thought of doing all this work and putting a standard (39bhp?!) 875cc imp engine in is pretty depressing. I'm really wanting to hear what other peoples thoughts are because my only idea left is bike engine but i really didnt want to go there.
Post by cradleyheathen on Feb 17, 2014 21:51:21 GMT
sadly i havnt been able to really study this thread as my laptop/internet is really slow and the pics are taking forever to come up.
but, from what i can see it looks great! there was a guy at the himley classic car show last year (2013) who had one of these in silver, was really nicely turned out with split rims and a fancy motor, but i cant remember what it was now, nor can i find a pic of it!
Great thread, have enjoyed your excellent work and documentation a lot!
Off the top of my head, would a VW t3 or similar transaxle work? Would expect that to be a lot beefier given the forces involved, and it turns in the right direction AFAIK. Ratios might be a bit poo for a performance car though. The other thing that popped into my head was that the beetle guys with Impreza engine transplants sometimes use Impreza transaxles too. There are reversal kits available for those boxes to reverse the direction of drive. No idea on costs there but should be plenty strong enough for your current engine plans...
In regards to the imp transaxle your right in the sense that it will be the week spot but in the last 10 years of imp turbo ownership and fun ive only managed to smash one doughnut when dropping the clutch at 5k revs on max boost and then six years or so later dropped the diff inside a casing after coming out of the bottom corner at Curborough in second sideways at about 50mph with ten inch wide wheels at the rear!!
Basically if controlled and sensible then no problem I get going then floor it.
Only ever used std boxes that ive had stored in the garden untested lol.
In its prime my imp (at least twice as heavy as yours will be) was running around 120bhp at the wheels.
Post by plasticfantastic on Feb 20, 2014 19:32:49 GMT
Cheers for the replys guys,
mdh, i did think about the bmw unit but to me it looks like there is alot of distance between the crank centre and the sump bottom, I'm pretty sure it will drag on the floor once fitted unfortunately.
Since reading into it more since my comments, i have come to the conlusion that deadlikeme above has posted, the imp box will be strong enough for my application. I plan to have a max of 120bhp at the wheels soim going to go ahead with building a 16v 1020cc imp engine, I'm going to supercharge it with a charger off a TSI VW engine.
No new pictures at the moment but work is continuing. I'm still die gringding out the front and rear panels and i have started to hot glue the many pieces of mk3 front back together ready for rebonding.