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I found a a lot of boot struts on ebay at reasonable prices - I hadn't checked with the dealership to compare prices yet but I do need a pair of boot struts myself before winter arrives again and the boot turns into an axe wielding homocidal manic with a pashion for taking chunks out of head Finally got around to this, and yes... Part Number: A1707500036 x 2 £12.20 each. Rather better than the prices people are asking for on eBay! Arrived the second day after ordering (Inchcape's online parts system) and obviously require all the skill of an infant to fit, now the boot line looks better when closed and the boot lifts itself up. Cam Magnet is £62, so ordering the struts, cam magnet and fixing the ECU fan maybe this weekend. An online ordering system for main dealer parts, so dangerous - but it means it'll get the correct Mercedes sealant and a new plug to replace the one I broke the clip on. And new belts and filters. Part numbers, for when SLK owners search for what bits are needed for this common problem: Cam Magnet A1190510077 (later models have a different bit) Sealant (instant gasket type stuff) A003989982010 Connector (plastic part for loom to cam magnet) A0125450428 And the drive belts... Belt komp A0119975892 Belt A0119970292 Really wish the weather would let up properly, instead of tricking me with a beam of sunshine followed by constant rain. Voyagers are now gone - so for the time being, the SLK is my car when gf needs the C3; the sequence of Voyagers was surprisingly rapid. Kinda miss it, it was vaguely comfortable and pleasant to drive about even if it was a waste of seats. So the SLK sits, still with ponderings about changing for something a little bigger/getting gf another banger/etc., and is going to be getting all the attention. Priority is to get some proper wheels onto it!
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2012 15:34:07 GMT by Deleted
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Finally got around to replacing the ECU fan. This is, of course, dead easy. The module is part number: A2105451095 - Blower. Cost? £133 It pulls air from the car's ventilation system and blows it into the ECU compartment with some force. Thanks to Subby on Benzworld, a 12v replacement motor of correct spec was identified. £6.99 inc. postage on eBay. Open t'bonnet. An ECU box... Open it up: Hello, wires... Move the fuse and holder attached to the side of the box... And the multiplug to the diagnostic socket. And there's the blower, held in with that metal tab. Lift the K40 relay out. There's the ducting. Move the diagnostic socket wire out of the way and it's free to lift up when you lift the motor out. Unclip the back of the motor, and there's a small PCB and the motor with a foam bush. The motor's in a rubber housing. The old motor has a red circle - the new motor had a circular mark in the same position for that direction of rotation. No pictures of use now, as my hands were filthy from carbon muck inside the housing. However, insert two fingers (if you can) into the blower and apply gentle force whilst releasing the clips through the slots around the outside. Then get a large flat-bladed screwdriver, and pry the fan blades off, noting the orientation (not that it'll go back together the wrong way). Unsolder motor, attach new motor. If you're confident soldering, there's no need to remove the motor's fiddly little connector from the ECU, this is no different to any other soldering - and the motor wires detached with a moment's tap from a 400° regulated iron. New and old motors; new motor is in the rubber sleeve. There are slots cut in the sleeve to align with the cooling vents on the motor's body. Reassembly is the reverse of the removal, but with more swearing at the annoying plastic duct that keeps sliding back into the bottom of the ECU box. Result? Car has a working fan and actually, seemed to be idling a little better as a result. Should prevent future issues with the K40 relay which can suffer solder cracks and general annoyance from heat, too. Took longer to write this than it did to replace the motor!
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Last Edit: Jul 9, 2012 16:53:46 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 10, 2012 20:48:20 GMT
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Just took a trip up the M1 and have a boot full of wheels and tyres (don't worry, dangermouse, still want yours when they're available) - and the miraculous speed the SLK displayed is partly explained! The 17" wheels and tyres are almost an inch smaller in diameter! I expect the wheelarches to look a bit less empty now - and hopefully a better ride will result too.
17" wheels going in the for sale section soon. Probably ideal for a 190 or similar.
Still trying to decide on refurbishment options. Tempted to do white wheels, thinking (not much) about yellow, obviously normal silver, maybe black chrome...
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2012 20:50:54 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 11, 2012 16:09:31 GMT
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Looking better, I think... Definitely like the shape of the R170 SLK now. Didn't when they were new! Bootline looks almost elegant compared to other hard top convertibles. And uncluttered compared to later Mercedes designs. Though with the current weather, spending far too much time in here...
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Jul 11, 2012 16:43:27 GMT
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Yeah, that looks stacks better with the proper wheels on, filling the arches properly.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jul 11, 2012 22:45:24 GMT
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Looks much better with the stock wheels, but I guess part of that is down to the offset of the wheels too . A friend of mine has one of these in the C32 AMG guise. I must say I am quite taken with the car!
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,892
Club RR Member Number: 71
Member is Online
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Jul 12, 2012 17:45:17 GMT
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That's much better - fill the arches properly and I'll bet you notice the difference in ride comfort.
I'd love to change the wheels on mine to something nicer but it's hard getting staggered offset sets and at the end of the day it's a daily
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These ones are just manky old standard wheels - the middle is all peeled - but they had almost new Avons on the back and were cheap for the set. The improvement in ride is incredible, was absolutely worth it, though you can feel the difference in steering response (possibly due to the front tyres being quite manky - new Avons for the front are cheap, and will be going on soonish). Also discovered the button for fully opening the bonnet - I'd wondered where it was on the SLK - access ahoy!
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Last Edit: Jul 13, 2012 10:35:56 GMT by Deleted
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Jul 13, 2012 11:26:54 GMT
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It looks wayyy better with the stock wheels Yellow paint and cheapo aftermarket wheels made it look a bit over-the-top but these are nice. Although I'm sure you could find something rare, beautiful, unusually cheap and not fitting your PCD as only RetroRides can bring...
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Jul 13, 2012 11:55:56 GMT
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I'm really pleased with them - it looks so right. If I wanted bigger wheels, I'd still want the right offset and a decent profile, but as I'm not taking it on a racetrack, and do drive on roads like farmtracks, it's a good balance. Looks nice with the roof down, too! The XM might get some interesting wheels, though. I have a terrible, "read Max Power too much as a lad" fondness for Azev As... and I think XM wheels are the same as some Volvo.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,892
Club RR Member Number: 71
Member is Online
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Jul 13, 2012 16:14:39 GMT
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Also discovered the button for fully opening the bonnet - I'd wondered where it was on the SLK - access ahoy! Sharing is good
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Jul 14, 2012 12:49:59 GMT
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Oh! Yes - where the strut attaches to the bonnet, on the back of the plastic sleeve, there's an oblong button - facing towards the windscreen so to speak. Push the button in (it can be tricky) and keep on lifting the bonnet - the gas strut slides out of the plastic sleeve and locks back in place at the bottom of the sleeve where there's a corresponding hole, with the bonnet open at 90° or so.
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Here's a quick snap of the engine access: Waiting for a box with the cam magnet and bits in, but already thinking about the next jobs. #1 is the steering damper. They're cheap, easy, and I can see no evidence that it's been done on this car; there's a bit of twitch and reaction that I think it'll remove. #2 - new springs! Still looking into it, but new, proper AMG sports suspension kit is only £300. Okay, quite a lot of money for springs, but they're allegedly very good - and I'm expecting I won't lose much height as these springs are 14 years old, but will probably get a nicer overall balance. The associated cost is that for the right effect, I probably want new dampers all around as well, and that IS expensive.
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Last Edit: Jul 18, 2012 8:55:26 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 18, 2012 10:28:17 GMT
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Bits arrived: Old Hose (I hate things like this, I really do - the new bit was only £8). Dismantled: Damage to paint from the leak New hose. Cam cover needs painting anyway, so it'll be done 'sometime'. Old, broken connector: Oil contamination from the leak. This gets into the wiring loom and can cause rather a lot of damage if ignored, though earlier cars are less likely to be affected. Love Mercedes connectors... Clipping shut = positive pin location. Much nicer. Stored aiming down - just in case there's some oil in there. New and old: And this is not silicone instant gasket. It might be RTV. I got confused enough by the different products that buying the Benz one seemed safest! More to follow when I get time to do the messy bit.
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Last Edit: Jul 18, 2012 12:37:10 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 18, 2012 12:30:26 GMT
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Get started with a 5mm hex driver: Sensor is in the way, so needed 5mm allen key after all. Three screws removed. Magnet slides out. It will tilt back after it's cleared the adjuster inside. Area to clean up a bit. Obligatory old and new shot. Stick some sealant on. All looks very nice and clean now. Only one of these tools was actually needed. Result? Hmm. Smoother, but... no boost. Going to need that fault code reader after all I think, unless I got a duff camshaft magnet.
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Last Edit: Jul 18, 2012 16:23:52 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 18, 2012 21:10:52 GMT
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Yes! That looks muuuch better now on the proper wheels matey you don't need my 3 now Lol. I think I'm gonna order some boot struts as I've adjusted the hell out of mine but it still doesn't want to line up nicely. It stays up by itself but only just, so I'm guessing and hoping new struts will sort it. I wish I'd have got a yellow one now it makes it more special looking, less like a normal but smaller silver Mercedes, if you know what I mean. My planned make over session this week hasn't gone to plan, I'm still going with the 17inch AMG wheels (too nicely priced and mint to say no to) but the rest of the body is staying as it is the costs for silly little things from Mercedes like screws and fitting kits, which I didn't have has made it too silly a price to do plus whilst I was at the bodyshop they had a very very very shiny, (less shiny once I'd licked it and rubbed myself on it).... R129 SL 500 so I took that as a sign, thank you car god. I'll get some pictures and update my thread as soon as I figure out my new phone. I'm not sure what I'm doing with these 3 wheels (2 fronts and 1 rear) but if I can't find a single rear wheel, I'll do you a very silly price on them
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97' silver Mercedes 230 Slk.... charged 94' bronze Hiace custom ... daily drinker 92' white Eunos roadster....... sold 91' grey Mercedes 500 SL .... sexyful 82' white Mercedes 200......... needs lows
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The struts do make a slight difference to how the edge near the window, as well as holding it up properly! Well worth doing! I'm interested in your wheels still so I can refurb a set, but there's no rush Have you checked the part numbers you need on Inchcape's online system? It's sometimes a little cheaper. Still hankering for an SL? I am, more than a bit actually - maybe in winter when prices dip. Any more pictures? Just bought a code reader, as I've still got intermittent supercharger operation - the cam magnet has obviously fixed the leaks and I'm pretty sure it's working correctly, it feels much smoother to drive generally even when there's no boost... but ARGH. And I found it's got a cheapo third-party MAF. Depending on what the code reader chucks back, that'll be going sharpish, even if the Bosch one is £170. Dodgy MAF = no charger. Fortunately I needed to replace the cam magnet anyway, it was leaking up the wiring loom.
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Jul 20, 2012 16:39:34 GMT
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More for my own reference, the windscreen seal has shrunk (between wiper cowl and screen):
Part A1708310198 - £6 or something like that. Need to get a wiper puller first.
Ran with MAF disconnected, no difference to running. Hey, wallet, got news for ya!
Cleaned the MAF and intake pipes a bit. Went for a drive in the sun, and aside from slightly poor economy still - no oil leaks from fitting the camshaft, proper performance for nearly all the drive (including a bit on the M1 where we encountered a Cobra and a yellow 911). Driver's side vent not putting much air out - took the lighting fuse panel off (another broken clip part, can't find it on the EPC though) and found that when the panel has been removed previously it was just shoved back in and had caught the edge of the heater duct. Realigned it all and reassembled, loads of air though vent now!
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Last Edit: Jul 22, 2012 12:47:57 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 22, 2012 17:20:15 GMT
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Radio switched power fixed. Also found a light for the cubby box that was on the loose in the console, and the door open/lights on warning beep has returned.
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Jul 23, 2012 11:13:50 GMT
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New toy time! This makes me happy (cleared P0341 stored, and a couple pending I forget and hadn't stored on the Autel because I had no battery in the reader yet):
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2012 11:14:56 GMT by Deleted
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