Respraying a car.

[bl1300]

I just took the plunge and purchased 2 litres of cellulose paint, and 8 litres of thiners. Unfortunatly the only spraying ive ever done before was with a rattle can and it didn't look that good. So does the RR massive have any tips for spraying with a gun. The paint to spray the car in rattle cans would have cost about £150 where as buying straight was £35 a bit of a no brainer really.

Also does anyone in the west wales area have a compressor I could borrow in about a months time. Beer money in it for you oh and the use of my inspection pit for any jobs on your own retro

[hamps]

Preporation is the key mate make sure your prep work is spot on, wet flat your primer with 600 and block it where you can to make it as flat as possible, then a light scotch off with a fine (grey) scotch pad, obviously masking it up is also is a tedious job but spend the time doing it right.

When your ready to paint, panel wipe the car with a lint free cloth then use a tack rag, mix your paint 50/50 and apply a dust coat 2-3 times don't try and get a good finish at this stage, allow a flash off (20 mins) if warm, then hit it with two heavy coats, leave it for a few days then block it wet (plenty of fairy up liquid) with 1200 wet and dry then re mask if need be (advisable)

Then give the car another 4-5 coats you will get dry patches with cellulose but don't worry to much, and letting it go off for a few days and re-doing it may sound a pain, but again with cellulose to get the best finish it is recommended

Again let it go off for a few days then use 2000 wet and dry on the block again plenty of fairy and flat it to a silk peel free finish, then use farrecla g6 rapid on a polishing mop if poss, or by hand until she shines

Some pics may be helpful to assist you more

[bl1300]

^ Thanks that just what I was looking for.

Paint factor has written on the tin of paint to use 70 to 80% thinners am I better to go 50% then?

I also read somewhere that when spraying over existing paint that there is no need to prime. Is this true?

I wasn't intending to take the whole car back to bare metal only areas where I have to kill of signs of rust. Should I take it all back to bare metal, etch and then prime the whole lot? Oh and is it worth using a high build primer?

I also forgot to mention that I figured that as the car is off the road due to engine failure, whilst I source parts for the engine and funds to pay for it. I might as well get on with the bodywork and make it as perfect as I can, in the hope it will then last another 44 years.

Because of this to do the respray I was intending to take all removable panels off and spray them off the car, and to remove all the glass and interior so that I can do all the hidden bits. So taking several days doesn't worry me too much.

p.s. sorry for asking so many questions but I do want to get this right first time

[hamps]

No just primer your repair areas, then if the rest of the paint is in good condition just wet scotch pad it to key it up and that will be fine.

Doing a panel or a few at a time will be easier and more achievable imo.

if it is really warm then up the thinners but cellulose isn't as thick as it used to be so i would say start at 50%

[akku]

have a read of this: retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=usetharch&action=display&thread=48784

I've done a few very-DIY resprays LOL.

2 litres of paint doesn't sound a lot, what are you painting?

[fogey]

If you haven't sprayed before then stick to 50/50. If you're then feeling confident thin the celly further for the final coat.

Best of luck - oh, and we want to see the pics when you're done.

[bl1300]

alistairk I'm spraying my Triumph but its staying the same colour over the top of mostly sound paint. The reason I'm doing the whole car is if I patch spray all the repairs I'm about to do it will look like a patchwork quilt ;D

Paint factor said 2 litres should be enough to do a car the size of a Focus but if I need more I will get more.

Oh and I saw this today so will be queing outside my local Aldi on sunday morning.

www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/offers_week11Sunday12.htm?WT.z_src=main

[g40jon]

i'd be very suprised if you get good coverage with just 2 litres. I would have said 3 would be a bare minimum to do a smallish car. That aldi compressor looks ok for the money. you do get what you pay for with compressors. Going on your budget theme I use one of these hvlp guns
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Jet-HVLP-Gravity-Spray-Gun-Smart-Repair-Twin-Pack-Blue-and-Silver-Set-/220914515313?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item336f87fd71

Use it mostly for refinishing wheels, but have used it to spray an mx5 hardtop, spoiler, front wing etc. Finish has been pretty good, most people don't realise that I had sprayed any of the parts.
If your painting gloss, use high gloss thinners, gives a much nicer finish that std thinners. keep the std thinners for primer, satin and matte finishes

[bl1300]

Think i'll go and get another 2l then its only 30 odd quid and I do want it to look good.

[Lopez]

Agree with A to the K, 2l is a bit stingy to be honest. If it's your first real stab you'll waste a fair bit cocking around with practice runs too.

[cobblers]

You'll deffo want a good few thick coats on to give you something to go at when sanding inevitable runs out.

[bl1300]

Well I want the car to look the business and that why I asked the question in the first place. It would be daft not to take the advice so I'll order the same amount of paint again and mix both into one

[akku]

Its stingy especially with Celly. With 2K its a higher build material, celly you need to put plenty of coats on. 2K you'd do 2 or 3 coats, with Celly, 5 to 7 depending on the colour/coverage is the norm.

If you mix 50:50 and use maybe a litre mixed material per coat you will need 3 litres to do 6 coats. I've allowed for wastage in the litre per coat estimate on that Triumph.

IIRC we bought 4 litres of paint and 10 litres of thinner to paint Benzboy's Bond in Triumph ice blue

[mochyndu]

Doing a panel at a time would be the only thing that aldi's compressor could manage,doesnt have enough cfm or tank capacity for a full respray.....couldnt you hire a bigger one??

[Jizmondo Scrotmondo]

I've done all my resprays using an electric HVLP spray station and celly. You'll need about 3 litres (I used 3 for a Bug) and mix it 50/50 with the thinners.
Another tip from me is whenever possible, buy the paint all at once as there can be slight differences if it's mixed to order and you won't notice until it's on the car. Chuck 4-5 good coats on and don't panic if you get some runs or if the finish isn't "gloss" as celly is very forgiving. Mine always look terrible just after painting, it's the flatting and polishing after which gives you the finish.

Be careful respraying over old scotched paint as the new paint could react with the old paint. Go for 800 grit wet and dry when flatting the primer and try to use high build primer.

When flatting the celly, start with 1000 if it's quite rough, then 1500 and onto 2000. Use the wet and dry with car shampoo which won't contain salt. I've always mopped mine up with G3 and plenty water. You can go for finer compounds if you wish.

Oh, I do mine outdoors in the summer under a gazebo. I usually wet the floor to stop any dust flying up.

I'm a caveman when it comes to painting cars

[Deleted]

would have to agree 2lt isn't enough it will look patchy where you have areas in primer if you can't get any more paint then blend them in with some rattle cans. I used 5lt silver and 5lt lacquer on my Gamma when l painted that and to be honest could have done with a few more coats of lacquer, but in the end after flattening it back and polishing it up (all by hand!) l was very pleased with the result. Luckily l did have the use of a mate's spay booth and l bought a good gravity fed gun.
Like others have said preparation is everything, get rid of any polish on the car with something like white spirit, key the paint underneath, if you've got Sharp edges put a few coats on them first so you don't polish the edges back to the paint underneath.

Good luck

[bigman1207]

Mar 16, 2012 7:30:53 GMT Jizmondo Scrotmondo said:

I've done all my resprays using an electric HVLP spray station and celly. You'll need about 3 litres (I used 3 for a Bug) and mix it 50/50 with the thinners.
Another tip from me is whenever possible, buy the paint all at once as there can be slight differences if it's mixed to order and you won't notice until it's on the car. Chuck 4-5 good coats on and don't panic if you get some runs or if the finish isn't "gloss" as celly is very forgiving. Mine always look terrible just after painting, it's the flatting and polishing after which gives you the finish.

Be careful respraying over old scotched paint as the new paint could react with the old paint. Go for 800 grit wet and dry when flatting the primer and try to use high build primer.

When flatting the celly, start with 1000 if it's quite rough, then 1500 and onto 2000. Use the wet and dry with car shampoo which won't contain salt. I've always mopped mine up with G3 and plenty water. You can go for finer compounds if you wish.

Oh, I do mine outdoors in the summer under a gazebo. I usually wet the floor to stop any dust flying up.

I'm a caveman when it comes to painting cars

What kind of HVLP Electric Spray station and size of Nozzel do you use please?

Cheers

BM

[mirafioriman]

If you have the time take as much off the car as you can, trim, handles etc. No matter how good you are at masking it always looks better with things removed.

If you buy some more paint just pour it all into one big tin and mix it well to avoid the shade difference issue.

As has been said above preparation is the key. Cellulose is pretty forgiving to use as you can put loads of coats on, flat and polish it etc but it does show up any imperfections so good preparation is vital.

[Jizmondo Scrotmondo]

What kind of HVLP Electric Spray station and size of Nozzel do you use please?

It's a Silverline 600w. I bought it off Ebay about 3 years ago. Here's a link - www.amazon.co.uk/SILVERLINE-633844-600W-SPRAY-STATION/dp/B003IVGK70

No idea what the nozzle size is, the gun is fully adjustable though. There was a guy on Volkszone who painted his Fastback with an Earlex (more or less the same as the Silverline) The celly eventually corrodes the little seal in the gun but I just get spares from the plumbing section of B&Q.

[bigman1207]

Mar 17, 2012 1:13:54 GMT Jizmondo Scrotmondo said:

What kind of HVLP Electric Spray station and size of Nozzel do you use please?

It's a Silverline 600w. I bought it off Ebay about 3 years ago. Here's a link - www.amazon.co.uk/SILVERLINE-633844-600W-SPRAY-STATION/dp/B003IVGK70

No idea what the nozzle size is, the gun is fully adjustable though. There was a guy on Volkszone who painted his Fastback with an Earlex (more or less the same as the Silverline) The celly eventually corrodes the little seal in the gun but I just get spares from the plumbing section of B&Q.

Thaks for that JS I was just wondering as I intend to spray my mini with the Earlex 3000 System, Got 2.0 1.5 and 1.0 needles, I have done a few test panels and despite a small ammount of pitting sort of reverse orange peel (tiny pin prick size blemishes) it covers well, think a good few more coats of celly would do it...however I'm interested in using truck enamel or similar as JAWAL paints have offers on base colour kits.

I used celly with a 1.0 needle.

Cheers

BM