Anglia68
Posted a lot
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Posts: 2,049
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Apr 22, 2012 22:36:14 GMT
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Nice buy and how brilliant to be able to drive it for such a distance with out any major drama. One of these was on my short list before I bought my Anglia,which came up for sale first. I'll leave this here.
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Apr 23, 2012 10:59:01 GMT
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You did better than me when I collected it I got 10 miles before it all went wrong and the AA did the other 230 odd for me ;D
It had been sat for 6 months so i might of been asking a bit much of it.
Mk1 herald diffs are a straight swap into the axle, standard one is 4.9 herald one is 4.1 So should be able to hum along at 65-70. Again early herald caliper brackets, spitfire hubs and discs etc will see you good on the braking side of things.
Mines currently sat with a big hole in floor with a type 9 gearbox wedged in awaiting the datsun getting on the road to get back on with it.
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2012 11:02:00 GMT by damien4884
1977 datsun 810 180b estate
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Apr 23, 2012 11:02:06 GMT
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Thanks for the info, Damien. James said you were the man to ask about quite a lot of this stuff EDIT: Don't suppose you know what range of years that covers? I assume there will be identifying codes *goes to Google* Edit again. I think I've found it. Pre 62 cars with casings suffixed G, Y, GA or FC
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2012 11:26:41 GMT by ben711200
...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Apr 23, 2012 11:29:05 GMT
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2012 11:31:45 GMT by damien4884
1977 datsun 810 180b estate
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1955 Standard 10Deleted
@Deleted
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Apr 23, 2012 12:37:08 GMT
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Sensible plans, I approve* of them quite a lot. I think it might be the stretched tyres that look odd to me on the car, the colour is excellent and I really rather like that next to the grey paint. The red interior is glorious too, needs a funky headlining to finish it off in there I think, something a bit like these as a bit of fun perhaps. *not that my approval matters, it not being my car. But I wish it was.
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Apr 23, 2012 13:38:18 GMT
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Excellent purchase and nice window sticker ;D
Incidently, I had an epic 6 hour trek when I bought my Eight from Ventnor, IOW. Stuck to A roads all the way and the little 803cc engine got me home. In fact, I was so confident with it, I drove it to pick up a replacement gearbox from Anglesey. There and back in 12 hours! Ace little motor and I miss it....
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skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,546
Club RR Member Number: 11
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1955 Standard 10skinnylew
@skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member 11
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Apr 23, 2012 14:05:59 GMT
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excellent purchase and roadtrip as well. Couldn't help but think of this.......
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,253
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1955 Standard 10Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Apr 23, 2012 18:39:39 GMT
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Epic Purchase. Well done Ben, now this is awesomely cool! Can't wait to see where this goes!
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Apr 23, 2012 22:43:18 GMT
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hello kitty headlining ftw
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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Apr 24, 2012 20:50:16 GMT
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No photos because it started raining..
I had a rummage in the shed and turned up an alternator that I previously had on the Volvo. The only thing going for it is that it is a working alternator. Everything else is no good...
It's a Bosch job that is 'handed' but it's wrong handed and not the sort that you can rotate to mount the other way. The casing is large enough that it just fits in the available gap with no room for adjustment. Now I've got the dynamo out, it looks like I could cobble it in as a temporary measure to get it back up and running but ideally I need something smaller and that mounts the correct way round. The logical one that everyone uses is the Lucas ACR but it'll be a case of seeing what comes up cheap and shoving it in. The ideal would be one from a Kubota tractor or something, but everyone appears to have cottoned on that these are marvellously compact so cost more than the equivelant Bosch or Lucas one.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Apr 25, 2012 17:42:29 GMT
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To save you searching for it if I told you where the info was: I used the alternator from a MK5 (92ish) Escort. It's a fairly small, Japanese - possibly Hitachi - 55 Amp unit. A fairly basic 1.4/1.6 CVH Escort so it still has a single-V belt. The alternator needs to be a small unit otherwise it will not clear the battery tray. The ACR Lucas version on my Spitfire "engine-in-waiting" was too big. When I removed the alternator from the scrap Escort I followed the wiring harness in the engine bay and found that it was a seperate mini harness. The large wire was bolted directly to the battery+ side of the starter solenoid and the small warning light wire to a connector plug. I snipped a bit of wire just past the connector. I also kept the alternator belt adjusting bar.
The 8's battery, dynamo and bracket were removed along with the belt adjusting bar. I "borrowed" the alternator mounting bracket and round spacer together with the long bolt from my Spitfire engine. The Spitfire one is a cast unit whereas the 8 has a pressed one, but all bolt holes lined up. However on first fitting the cast bracket didn't seem to sit correctly. On closer inspection I noticed that one of the timing cover screws was protruding through the engine front plate around 1mm. This was just enough to stop the bracket fitting flush. My first thought was to remove the screw and put a washer behind it, but it didn't seem keen to budge, so I just filed the excess protruding through and then the bracket sat correctly. I then fitted the alternator onto the bracket expecting to have to pack it fore or aft to get the belt to line up with the water pump and crank pulleys. No need, it was perfectly in line. The Standard's belt adjusting bar would have needed packing to reach the alternator, but I offered up the Escort one, and by turning it over it fitted perfectly too. Credit goes to Misterm on the standard forum
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2012 17:43:28 GMT by damien4884
1977 datsun 810 180b estate
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Apr 30, 2012 20:55:00 GMT
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What Damien posted above is basically the conclusion I came to when trying to line up the Volvo alternator. He's also been a huge help via PM on a couple other issues but I'll explain that stuff as and when it reaches fruition. Googling 'small alternator conversion' and similar search terms came up with the usual suggestions Daihatsu charade Kubota tractors SJ410/SJ413 Buy a 'race' one modify a motorbike one Using mostly eBay, I discovered that most of these went for more than I was prepared to pay, presumably because everyone who wanted a small alternator was searching the same things, and that I really couldn't be bothered with modifying a bike one. Sleeperviva suggested an SJ one to me again on Facebook, and it led to me thinking on a slight tangent and searching for one from a Bedford Rascal or Suzuki Supercarry (same engine). Doing so scored me one for £27 delivered off of eBay and it arrived today. I had a quick look after work and chucked it approximately into place with just one bolt It fits in the hole with room to adjust and use the same size belt. Excellent! I'll need to cut up some scrap tube to space it properly and wire it in. At a glance, I thought it had been converted to negative earth but actually looking at it it clearly isn't the case! I need to check how this alternator is wired as it isn't the same as the standard Lucas or Bosch ones. It has a pair of spade connectors on the side and a wire coming off with a connector at the end. I reckon the pair both deliver my charge, the dangly wire is a signal light and it earths through its body. I won't work on assumption though! Diagrams for bypassing the regulator box are all over the internetz so that should be fine. These were in the boot so I think I'll use them once I've painted the wheels in a colour that's a little less shouty. I gave them a VERY quick rub with some Autosol, but I can't say I'm too fussed about making them perfect, it was just to give them a bit of shine. Dents and blemishes add character I noticed this the other day I have no idea what the flappy flap is. But I had a look underneath... ...and decided to pretend I hadn't ;D
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Apr 30, 2012 21:02:41 GMT
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I think the flappy bit is the heater air intake - but I'm not 100% sure.
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Lawsy
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,615
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Apr 30, 2012 21:13:55 GMT
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nice one Ben
since I deleted FB i missed out on the updates an dhavent been on here for quite a while
Had i have know you were going through Reading I;d have picked you up at reaidng and taken to staines (my home town)
Glad to see it made it home too, awesomes..
Watching this one
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Apr 30, 2012 23:10:22 GMT
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Flappy bit is indeed the heater intake, there should be a lever to left of column to open it, if it works or not i don't know, i used to yank it up as i got in. It makes a fair bit of difference to the heating when your shimmying along, with it shut it tends not to do much at all. The one on mine is rotten through so any rain goes straight through and drips/runs onto tunnel. I'll probably chop it out and weld the hole up and run one from the front grille. Typically the one on my dads freebie is mint If your attacking the sills at any time and want some pictures of factory fresh ones i can go dig it out and take some shots for you.
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate
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Today has been semi-successful. I accidentally booked the wrong day off work and instead of cancelling it decided to utilise it by playing with the car. Here's how the morning started. Battery out, printout of a guide of how to bypass the voltage regulator thingy and a strong black coffee. First thing to do was swap the wires around on the coil for the conversion to negative earth. I cracked on from there and forgot to take pics. I used the existing dynamo mount for the new Suzuki Supercarry alternator and just had to trim down a little bolt on spacer and crudely made something to extend the adjuster. It lacks finesse but it works fine. This is everything back together. Fortunately the battery leads were long enough that it didn't matter that the battery was spun around for my change to negative earth and there's nothing else that is sensitive to polarity in the car. It all appears to be working. Ish. Turning the ignition on, the light illuminates brightly as expected, then starting the engine it doesn't go out, but does go really dim. I used an old analogue multimeter as my digital one is getting a bit unreliable, and across the battery terminals it was reading just under 14 volts when running and less (a normal value. I can't remember exactly) when off. It's working, but that's a slightly low value. The tension of the belt is fine, and I followed the guide successfully, but I'm wary of the fact that I'm running an alternator through 57 year old wiring, which where be where my 'missing' charge is escaping. I think the next step will be to redo all of the charging system's wiring and bin the now redundant regulator alltogether. I just need to figure out what all the wires to the regulator do ;D
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Run a good size cable from the alty output direct to positive battery terminal. This should sort the charge issue and is the correct way on older cars.
It's over 20 years since I last did this conversion so can't remember the rest, but it's pretty straightforward.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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1955 Standard 10stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Big cable from alt to battery, big cable for battery and engine earths. Big cable to starter too if you've got spare. Makes a massive difference to a lot of cars I've found.
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I'd check all the earths, and put some more on, the old were only good enough for a dynamo, not man enough for an alternator, a good strong earth from engine to body to battery, enjoy.
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