Haven't updated in a while because the usual slog of welding isn't that interesting, rot-removal is now complete!
I also took advantage of the MOSS discount last month and ordered;
anti-tramp kit spax damper kit poly bushes V8 conversion diff axle rebuild parts brake rebuild parts
I found a seller on ebay flogging MGB GT wings in GRP for cheaper than the usual suspects, so figured it was worth a try as they were based in Nottingham meaning I could collect on my way home from work and avoid delivery or fuel costs.
The pickup location was a proper old-school factory-in-shed affair and I was a little dubious of how good the wings would be. I offered them up for a trial fit on Friday night and they should fit with a little work, probably worth the saving for my requirements.
Next job is to grind all the welds back where required and strip the old paint off, degrease and rough up the engine bay and clean the insides out ready for some primer.
I've been spending my time trial fitting the new body panels recently.
For those that asked the bare GRP doors weigh a smidge over 4kg undressed.
Here's a side view with the door and wing on the O/S in the final location, I've had to cut the inner mounts for the wing front and rear and re-attach them once the wing was in the right location.
The door on the O/S needs some work too to smooth it in with the wing. The N/S door is much better and I wonder if it's my car not the wing/door that's a little wrong.
I'd been pondering how to mount the doors on the hinges, the normal doors have a "box" on the inside with a threaded plate behind. I ended up doing as follows;
Marked up and cleaned out the entrance point for the hinges and used a hold cutter to make the bolt holes. Once mounted the door seemed a little flimsy on just the GRP so some added some strengthening.
Cut and folded some internal braces
Cut a top plate, I had to pad underneath the lower hinge mount with some cut-fiber-filler
The plates had the A-post door face drilled and some more fiber filler was put on before they were bolted through the top plate and held in place, a further bolt was put through the A-post face to ensure they don't flex.
Placed the door back on but only using repair washers, I will make a plate for this purpose, I need to weld the nuts to the back of the hinges too.
Not sure I can move the engine forwards, once I get the timing cover and gear on the engine it's going to be tight both in front and above.
I've seen the shorter remotes and the modded ones, there seem to be a few ways to do it, once I get some seats on and try a stick in there I can see how it feels. I sit with the seats as far back as possible normally so it could be OK for me! If not it's not going to be hard to drop the remote off and change it.
I am having some proper trouble finding an output flange for the LT77 though, the one on the gearbox had been pulled out the seal and has rusted over
This weekend I made what looks like actual progress!
Engine bay was sprayed in satin black, I still haven't decided on an actual colour, this enables me to start fitting more of the oily bits.
Last weekend a friend cleaned up the crossmember with a wire brush and gave it a lick of paint while I took the rest of the suspension apart. Turned out the wishbones were beyond repair, all the bolt holes had elongated to oval and two had cracks. The kingpins were also a sorry state. Not having the correct reaming tool or the desire to splash out on one I bought exchange king pins along with polybushes, wishbones, ARB links and springs. Lever arm dampers were emptied and re-filled with oil, if anyone has suggestions of the best oil to use then please let me know. I just used some hydraulic oil. Steering rack was also given a lick of paint and replaced the balljoints.
Cleaned up crossmember and rack fitted;
Pile of bits awaiting fitting;
All fitted along with new discs, calipers, bearings, seals and braided brake hoses.
Hand brake now works and the rear brakes are fitted. Steering column was also bolted in.
From what I've seen on the net, motorcycle fork oil does seem to be suitable for filling the lever arm dampers, I'm going to try a fairly heavy fork oil on my front dampers when I get round to it to see if it gives much of an improvement
This weekend I seam sealed the floors and gave them a lick of paint;
Rear brake lines were run through to the front;
then I started tearing down this;
Forgot to take many photos but I'm sure you've all seen the insides of an engine. It was filthy. Some bolts didn't seem as tight as they could have been too.
Engine is now in pieces and the block is clean, pistons and the replacement front cover are now sat in a big box full of diesel to soak for a week.
I hope to start putting it back together next weekend and perhaps get it fitted along with the gearbox. Speaking of which, I gave up on my hunt for a drive flange and machined the old one slighlty to get rid of the rust, I hope the oil seal should take up the metal I relieved. The gearbox remote bushes were replaced with poly bushes.
Wrapping the springs stops the dirt from getting between the leaves and wearing them/binding them up.
Seems like I haven't done much updating here, I worked away for 3 weeks in a row and over the weekends so didn't get much of a chance to touch the BGT. Back with a vengeance now!
Lining up the holes for the RV8 headers using the mock-up block;
Air grinder out and started cutting;
Checking for clearance;
Heads cleaned up and new oil seals, valves ground in;
Front wings fitted, heads fitted, headers fitted, doors fitted;
Rockers cleaned up and fitted;
New fuel tank painted and fitted with a new sender/pick up pipe;
Rover P6 water pump and P6 alternator mount, the SD1 crank pulley was machined to line up with the P6 water pump. Remote oil filter take off has been fitted and the chassis rail adjusted to allow pipes to be fitted. Rocker covers are going to get painted but they've been fitted to keep the inside of the engine clean. You can also spot the cleaned up heater now fitted into place.
I've ordered the front and rear valences and a bonnet, going to order an inlet manifold and the rest of the induction parts tomorrow, anyone who knows me will think my choice of induction is a little out of character