Really NEED help! Please :(

[unitybonez]

It seems like there is no way of fixin my bloody car!!!
After gettin it back from the mech it seemed to behave for a few days, but the fact that he found no reason for the belt slippin got me worried to begin with.
So, other than registerin the valves n doin few other small jobs he also mixd up all the carb jets LOL But that was an easy fix, n after that it really went well for a few days, then shizzit happend.

It started by overfuelin, burpin like mad at idle, overheatin like it wanted to blow, autostartin at shut off then not wantin to keep idle at all, but still drivin decently,althou havin to always keep the pedal down aint the way i like to drive
Today after swappin condenser n rotor again and the fuel pump thing on the carb to no avail i checked the pulleys and the crank timing marks werent aligned with the tab.
After puttin all pullys on their marks i tried fireìng and ìt backfires just lìke if the plug wires were mismatched

I checked the Nr 1 pison to see if it really was at TDC and it is

PLEASE someone give me a clue cause I'm almost thinkin of rippin all the good parts off the car and crush it......

[omega]

go on then give us a clue

what car is it?

[RobinJI]

Firstly what car is it, and have you had a timing light on it?

Does the engine use a layshaft/auxhillary shaft to drive the distributor? If so it sounds like it might have been put back together with the layshaft out of possition and then re-timed to suit it. You getting the belts timing marks aligned correctly could have thrown the ignition timing out hugely, meaning the dizzy needs either rotating or refitting in the correct position to match. I've seen it done with VW's a few times. Previous owner had the layshaft in the wrong place, but the ignition timed to it's 'wrong' possition so it runs anyway, belts are changed correctly and suddenly the leads are all on the wrong plugs and the timings way out. You need to make sure that the distributor arm's still pointing at #1 lead when #1's at TDC, to get the timing about right, then fine tune it.

[unitybonez]

Sorry, i just went on like everybody read my old thread.
Its a 205 block 2.0 litre pinto in a 72 taunus.

Not sure what a layshaft is. I'm not that clued on engines.
Bortaf explained mehow to time it last month or so.
I'm positive i did it right but to be sure:
Cam pulley pointer at 6 o'clock pointin at the point on the headplate
Crank pulley TDC mark lined with the tab off the block. I tried all timing mark to make sure and always "poppin"
Dizzy with the cap off, rotor lined with the groove on the dizzy body.

thanks in advance.

[unitybonez]

Well Robin, thanks to your post I sorted it out
It was this part:
.... but the ignition timed to it's 'wrong' possition so it runs anyway, belts are changed correctly and suddenly the leads are all on the wrong plugs and the timings way out

So, since everything lined up I checked the leads on the dizzy cap side, and the nr 1 cylinder was on the number 4 postion, they were all shifted one position clockwise.
As soon as I switched them it fired up. I timed it by ear and when I removed the cap to check where the timing groove was it was only slightly advanced. Huuray! Really rewarding.

Now this leaves one question. Or two maybe. First one is what the hell did the mech do. He inverted all the carb jets, puttin the low rev choke jets on the high rev chocke side and vice versa, timed the engine in a unknown manner, shifted the leads on the dizzy cap clockwise one position and made it run this way.

Second question is what the hell happened after a week that barley made it fire?? My guess is that the belt jumped a tooth or two, which was the reason i brought it to the mech in the 1st place, but what is the cause and why is so random really is a mistery.
I'm to the point that I don't feel safe taking the car to the shop. Much ess gettin out to the pub at night...

[bortaf]

As there are no timming marks on the Aux pully only the inside the dizzy cap he probably just didn't line the rotor up with the mark in the dizzy body and just moved the leads to get no1 lead in the right place, happens all the time on pintos, doesn't really matter, what matters is why the hell your belt keeps slipping

How far out was the crank marks when the cam was set correctly? it wont allways be on the thick line that's only for timing it staticly (not runing) after that (with it running) it will move to one of the smaller lines ?

[unitybonez]

I'm not sure i understand your question.
If you mean when i noticed the crank pulley timing marks werent aligned with the tab then it was about an inch out, tab on the left side marks on the right with about 2 or more cenimeters in between. I think it slipped a tooth cause otherwise i doubt it would still run.

Could it be the oil conduit to the cam lube "sprinkler" is obstructed somewhere and when it gets hot makes the cam hard to turn? No idea what I'm talkin about clearly but I'm tryin to understand what the hell is goin on.
Ive got so good at it that I'm considerin goin out with the car anyway and simply re-time it if need be. LOL just kiddin

[unitybonez]

what do you mean by "it will move to one of the smaller lines"? Shouldnt it stay where you put it?
Ive set it on the first thickmark (left side one) and seems to be runnin well for now. Gonna take it to the shop later so if anything happens i'll let you kno.

[RobinJI]

Glad you got it partly sorted. I think that bortaf is talking about the ignition timing. When you're setting it with a light the mark on the pully will move to different corresponding marks to when it's stationary. I can't see any reason why the cam timing would change.

I'm not too clued up on Pintos so can't really see why the belt would be slipping. What sort of tensioner do they use? fixed or sprung tensioner? Sliding or eccentric? If it's sprung it could be lacking tension causing it to jump at high RPM. If it's fixed and eccentric is there any way it could have been rotated the wrong way and given a pully less wrap-around?

I wouldn't have thought it would be slipping because of a stiff camshaft, as if the belt's correctly tensioned then I'd expect it to tear the teeth off rather than just skipping over a few, unless you've got a very slack sprung tensioner. I take it it's a new or at least recent belt?

[unitybonez]

The tensioner is fixed i think. Its just a fat bearing.
I swapped it with the old one to see if it was to blame to new junk parts, but nothin changed.
Both the tensioner and the belt are less than a year old.

[bortaf]

Apr 6, 2013 20:14:05 GMT RobinJI said:

Glad you got it partly sorted. I think that bortaf is talking about the ignition timing. When you're setting it with a light the mark on the pully will move to different corresponding marks to when it's stationary. I can't see any reason why the cam timing would change.

I'm not too clued up on Pintos so can't really see why the belt would be slipping. What sort of tensioner do they use? fixed or sprung tensioner? Sliding or eccentric? If it's sprung it could be lacking tension causing it to jump at high RPM. If it's fixed and eccentric is there any way it could have been rotated the wrong way and given a pully less wrap-around?

Yes sorry that was what i was getting at cheers

The tensioner is pretty basic, just lever it over and tighten the 2 bolts but you might want to try marking where the bolt is in the tensioner slot with tipped or a marker pen and seeing if it slackens off after a run ?

[unitybonez]

oh I see now
I'll try the marker trick but I'm rather sure that aint the problem cause both tensioner and belt were tight each time I re-set them. Well, except the first try, but thats another story

Just to let you know, I took it for a spin a few hours ago, and it went so incredibly smooth that I took one of the dogs and drove to the bar, which is a 10 minutes drive. Both ways went very wel and I was surprised how well the engine revved up, and down too, and how great the exhaust sounded I almost didnt want to park it.
I have no idea if it has to do with the valve adjutment the mech did but I'm happy.
Now lets see how many days before it slips again.

[fred]

If your still stuck try the www.fordpower.org.uk/forum2/
if your not on it
Done me great deeds when I had the Tina

[unitybonez]

thanks, checkin it out now

[sparkyt]

What's the big thing about its a 205 block . We have a few pinto 205 engines kicking about I've moved them more than once out of my way .. should I sell them are they special ..

[unitybonez]

Well, its the latest of the pinto family found on sierras and other pinto powered fords of that era.
Burton has a write up on their site that tells you all about them.
I seem to remember them having thicker blocks that will so take boring much better than the old 70s blocks. But as I already mentioned I'm no engine pro.
Regardless, its the most sought after of the 2.0 liter family and you should really think about making them available to ford nutters

Back to my problem, I just went to lunch break and it seems by throttle response, start up and shut off and overall sound that it skipped a tooth again.
Could it be a lousy belt? Like a supposedly good quality one that is junk and deformed in half a year of daily use? At this point looks like the best explaination and possibly the cheapest to fix.
I'll check later, but I can easily say without soundin arrogant that I got to know this engine rather well and I know when it runs right or not, and it deffo aint as nice and crisp as it was yesterday.

BTW, if i only knew how to fix it as well as i know how it sounds that would be magical LOL

[bortaf]

If it was the belt it would have be slack to jump or be missing a tooth and i doubt you and the mechanic would miss a tooth missing ?
Put simply the 205 has better tolerences to the earlyer 2.0 blocks (more precise casting techniques), bore spacing is more precise and cosistant so a large overbore wont hit a water jacket, the earlyer bore spacings were rather hit and miss, unless it's an EFi block they are no better in the real world than an early block but there are differences to the belt tensioner so it allways helps to know what engine it is when diagnosing a problem
It's not the latest pinto persay, the latest was the 202 block (92) with knock sensor mounting and a strengthend block and before that was a 207 (87) block (replacement low comp engine for commercials with strengthend bellhousing points and a lower deck height).

IF it's running rough again check the cam and crank marks and double check the thin plate is still all there behind the crank pully, between it and the cam toothed pully, it keeps the belt in line on the pully, and check how tight or loose the belt is before moving stuff, probably wont make a differance but not being there we need to know every little detail to try and figure out what this beharch is doing to you

[damageandy]

change the belt anyway, even if its skipped once it my have damaged it! first thing to do.

also check the pulleys, all the ay around to make sure they are ok. Cant see it been the cam tightening up because if it did it enough to for the belt to skip teeth and you carried on driving it would bind more and skip more and seize up.

change the belt
check the pullys - teeth/roundness etc and id be checking if the pulley and woodruff keys are ok too just to rule that out.

[RobinJI]

Yeah, I'd agree with changing belt. Even if it's not the belt at fault, skipping teeth while running's not likely to have been kind on it. Is there any way it could be tensioned wrong? IE one side of the belt feeling tight, while really there's a load of slack in the other side? It's easily done on some engines.

[unitybonez]

Still havent checkd cause i was late to feed the dogs etc, so will do tomo morn before goin to work.
Robin, no I'm positive its not a tension problem. The first time i did this i only tightened the tensioner without pullin the belt on the other side, infact it slipped right after LOL but lesson learned and now i know how to do it. But yeah, you got that right, its easily done

Good point on the cam too.
There is one thing i noticed the other day thou. looking at the cam puley spinnin from the top it seems to wobble a bit. Deffo the plate behind the pulley (the one with the pointer) is wobbley, but i cant be sure if its the pulley too cause it sorta confuses the sight. The plate was always like this as i remeber it clearly.
And i was under the impression that the dizzy pulley was a little wobbley too.
The crank ones seem perfectly balanced.

How much something like this can be of any consequence, and how much "wobble" is too much?
This might as well be nothing as i havent looked at it properly, but there has to be a reason and I'm tryin to think of all the stuff that looks "outta place"

thanks for your time everyone.