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Nov 11, 2013 18:38:45 GMT
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Not much progress today as I clumsily broke the torch socket on my plasma cutter yesterday. £5 and two days later should see it back in action. There's no way I can be bothered to make new stuff with a grinder, takes aaaages with 3mm steel. I got the captive nuts welded in and the panel zinc primered. Tweaked the bender again and can just get 90 degrees over the full width, but I'm at the limits of the press.
Found a place to get the 60 x 3mm round tube. Hopefully more progress soon.
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Nov 11, 2013 19:38:18 GMT
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like !
maybe you could create a "die", a [_] shaped former slightly smaller than the inside dimension of chassis rail, minus thickness of the steel and a bit of wiggle room. then it would press a U shaped repair section in one go and at the same time stop the metal walking out of your press
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Nov 11, 2013 21:36:51 GMT
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like ! maybe you could create a "die", a [_] shaped former slightly smaller than the inside dimension of chassis rail, minus thickness of the steel and a bit of wiggle room. then it would press a U shaped repair section in one go and at the same time stop the metal walking out of your press I like the idea, but there's no way my press would be up to doing both of the bends at the same time. To bend a metre of 3mm steel requires between 20 and 35 tonnes of pressure, depending on the size of the die. I'm making 475mm wide sections and it's really not up to any more than that. The bends it's making are really pleasing, but the press just hasn't got enough oomph to push it past 90 degrees. It'll bend way past 90 on smaller sections. As long as I can just get a right angle then I'm really happy. The chassis rails are also different sizes as you move front to back. The bit's I'm making for the back are 80mm high by 50-60mm wide, but as you go forward they go to about 90mm high and I think even 100mm. It's all a challenge eh! I'm quite enjoying having to think around all the problems at the moment, but I reckon it'll try my patience at times.
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jules
Part of things
Posts: 75
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Nov 11, 2013 22:10:30 GMT
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Fair play for taking on something that most people would be weighing in ! All the more satisfying to me for doing it tho. Good luck with it all.
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Nov 14, 2013 19:04:52 GMT
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actionslaxx
Part of things
a message to you rudy
Posts: 74
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Nov 15, 2013 14:18:25 GMT
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Great work there, most inspiring, some of the metal working skills on this forum are top notch.
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Nov 17, 2013 19:46:58 GMT
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Nov 18, 2013 11:33:33 GMT
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nicely done, those sections slot into place nicely
how will join the repair sections to the rest of the chassis, will it be sleeved or maybe overlapping patches welded on the outside? just thinking out loud really, butt welding two parts of chassis together is not ideal?
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lukas
Part of things
Posts: 72
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Nov 18, 2013 13:11:53 GMT
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Great to see this old girl saved! I own a 1987 MkI Wagon. Thankfully almost without any rust on the chassis of body. I´ve waxoyled my Pajero twice, I hope it stays with me for quite a long time. Now in winter-storage though.
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87 Mitsubishi Pajero 2,5 TD Wagon 89 Mitsubishi Pajero V6 3000 Metal Top 96 Daewoo Espero 1.5 16V
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Nov 18, 2013 21:34:41 GMT
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nicely done, those sections slot into place nicely how will join the repair sections to the rest of the chassis, will it be sleeved or maybe overlapping patches welded on the outside? just thinking out loud really, butt welding two parts of chassis together is not ideal? I've deliberately staggered the joints between the outer and inner 'U' sections by about an inch, so that at least there isn't 1 single failure point. It's not ideal that it's not 1 section anymore, but to be honest, given what was holding it all together, this should be 100 times stronger. I started on the next section today. I'm not sure if I made it in the easiest way, as it took me a long time today. Where it joins the bit I've just added at the back it's 82mm tall, but at the front it's 95mm tall, then it also has the two bends in it. If anyone can think of an easy way to make this, please let me know! I cut the old outer 'U' off the chassis leaving the inner one as a reference and to hold the chassis together so I don't lose alignment. Doing it this way takes about 10 times longer, but I suppose it's better than a weirdy wonky chassis.
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Nov 18, 2013 23:17:56 GMT
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ah yeah, kind of hollow lap joint. tbh, that kinked bit you've made might not be the easiest way but its turned out great
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Nov 21, 2013 21:48:46 GMT
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lukas
Part of things
Posts: 72
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Did everything go right after the OP? Any Updates on here to come?
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87 Mitsubishi Pajero 2,5 TD Wagon 89 Mitsubishi Pajero V6 3000 Metal Top 96 Daewoo Espero 1.5 16V
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Jan 14, 2014 22:53:54 GMT
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Hi, Well the good news is that I survived the op . It wasn't a fun experience, but not having a huge worrying lump in my neck is definitely an improvement. It turned out to be some form of cyst, so nothing too worrying. I've managed to get back into the garage after my recovery (about 2 weeks) and Christmas etc. Some good progress over the last couple of days. I've got the kinked section on the driver side rail tacked in place, so I thought I'd move onto the other side. A quick cut with the grinder saw the whole of the rear crossmember etc removed after some measurements! I've made another repair section for the rear most part. These take ages to fabricate, I guess about 5-6 hours each side. I decided to weld on the rear spring hanger whilst the panel was on the bench this time. I wish I'd done the same on the other side as it's going to be more difficult on the chassis. Getting there And here's the inside of one of the better bits of chassis rail that I've had to remove More to come soon
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2014 22:56:20 GMT by jondimond
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Jan 16, 2014 19:45:46 GMT
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I started getting the rear cross member sorted today. The section I made earlier in the week is now tacked in place, So I slipped a big tube in . Then I bent up the reinforcement sections which are welded to the leading edge of the tube. The original is 840mm long, so I had to make it in two 420mm sections. The original also had 5 30mm holes in, but these seem just to serve as rust traps, so I've left them out. I've still got to add 4 body mounts, 2 bumper mounts and the centre towbar mount, so plenty to be getting on with. Then I've got to sort more of the passenger side chassis rail out, it's a mess.
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Jan 16, 2014 20:32:53 GMT
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Nice work! Good to see a mk1 being saved. I'm currently doing a bit of a freshen up on my brother in laws mk1 2.6 that has stood for years. Will put up some pics soon.
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Jan 18, 2014 20:43:45 GMT
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I've removed the rear body mounts and the rear bumper mounts from the old cross member, cleaned them up a bit and welded them onto the new cross member. This took far far longer than it should have done, but I'm happy enough with the result The scrap cross member is starting to look a little bit bare. I've removed the hefty centre mount for the tow bar too and even that needs a little bit of repair! It's nearly ready to be welded on tomorrow.
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Last Edit: Jan 18, 2014 20:44:42 GMT by jondimond
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Jan 18, 2014 21:10:03 GMT
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Fabulous fabrication and welding ! good to see you are making progress.
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1994 Mercedes e220 petrol estate, daily driver. 1998 Peugeot 406 Coupe 3.0 v6, shopping car.
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Jan 18, 2014 21:23:49 GMT
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Fabulous fabrication and welding ! good to see you are making progress. Thank you . I'm not the fastest, but I am pleased with how it's turning out.
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Jan 18, 2014 22:03:29 GMT
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Wow, impressive work!
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