MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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Apr 24, 2014 23:51:08 GMT
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After I'd poked a bit harder at the rust and given it a going over with a flap wheel on the outside, the damage was as follows. A lot bigger than the initial 10p sized hole I poked, but at least it was all flat (relatively) and just one bend to put in. So, I cut out a sensible-ish hole shape to make up a repair patch for. Then the patch was made from a cardboard template, on yet another pizza box... Annoyingly, I had picked the windiest day ever to do the welding. That's my excuse this time anyway! Plugged the hole quite nicely though. Roughly ground down the welds before a bit of zinc-primer and underseal. The patch doesn't quite follow the contour of the rest of the valance, but meh, I doubt you'd notice unless you really looked for it! As you can see from above, I also got the rear bumper off to remove the towbar and cover over the holes that remained from the mounting bolts (which I identified were at least one source of rain water coming in to form the puddles in the bins). It got dark by the time I got the bumper back on and the car back on the ground, and the next day I re-fitted all the boot carpet bits and then spent most of the day fitting the leather seats and doorcards, just in the rear. I'll take a couple of pics tomorrow and post them up, suffice to say I'm pretty happy with how tidy the rear half of the interior looks now! I've also sourced the door pin and handle surround that were missing from the drivers door, along with the two plastic seat back panels that were missing from the cheapo sports interior I snagged; all that lot should be here early next week.
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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Apr 25, 2014 13:58:22 GMT
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Here's a couple of shots of the leather in the rear. Took me quite a while to work out how the backrests came out, obviously the Haynes telling me to "pull up sharply" wasn't quite all I had to do... silly book of lies, why do I still trust it?! Cleaned the new seats up before they went in, and I vacuumed the carpet under the seats whilst everything was out. I also cleaned all round the doors and door shuts before I put the cards on. Even though the interior came with door cards, I actually went and bought and another set from central London, just to use the grey door furniture (there was only black furniture on the cards that came with the interior) and the rear cards, as these ones I've now fitted don't have the cut-out for the electric window switch like the other ones do. The only downside is that this second set of cards I got were fake leather, as opposed to the real stuff, so the rear cards in the car are only fake leather. Not that anyone would really notice of course... Here's the boot all back together, looking a lot tidier than when I got the car. You can also see here the headrests on the rear seats from the interior I bought. It seems to be a fairly desirable upgrade to install rear headrests, which is nice to know. I'll hardly ever have anyone in the back though, so I might take them out if they block my view out too much... Whilst I was out taking those pics, the postman dropped off the door lock pin thingy, so I could cover up the dangerous pokey bit of metal coming out of the drivers door. Don't know when I'll get round to fitting the front cards and seats, but I want to get the driver's seat repaired first as the stitching has come apart on the outside seam on the outer lower bolster. No more updates for a few days at least, I've got an exam to revise for
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2014 14:02:04 GMT by MrOtter
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,330
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1989 BMW E30 325i Touringspiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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Apr 25, 2014 15:26:49 GMT
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this thread makes me look like a terrible car owner I feel a little foolish that I forgot to bolt the water pump on properly, but hey ho ... like others have said, when I had it, the temp guage was generally in the middle, but did wander around depending on traffic conditions. Didn't know about the rust! The headliner comes out in once piece - also as its the estate version, you don't need to take the windscreen out ! like some online guides mention. the lower dash tray (under the steering wheel) was warped and I kept getting my foot stuck under it when braking, so it got binned (along with the headlamp adjusters, which didn't work) the bulbs are from the adjuster switch. It certainly looks tidier than when I had it still, it has given me more time to work on the MG (which managed a sneaky drive on the road the other day, and it drives quite well )
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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Apr 25, 2014 22:38:47 GMT
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Don't worry Phil, we've just seen the car in different lights is all! I obsess over getting things tidy in my cars and I look at this as an item to be cherished and cared for, especially as it'll be my daily driver when it goes on the road. I guess you just saw it as more of a fun, useful, workhorse/toy? Either way of looking at it is cool Glad to know you've got the time to tinker with the MG now! Also forgot to mention that I took the heater resistor pack out of the vinegar and cleaned off, it actually came up pretty good with a rinse to get all the rusty gunge off. I was very happy when I installed it in the car and found that the fan now worked on every speed! However, after about 20 seconds it melted itself quite severely and caught on fire... thankfully I just turned the heater up to max. and it blew the flames out. So I won't be using that again! I'll order a replacement from BMW sometime, it probably won't be cheap and I probably won't want the full range of fan speeds until winter, so it can wait...
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2014 22:39:53 GMT by MrOtter
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,239
Club RR Member Number: 160
Member is Online
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1989 BMW E30 325i TouringRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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The fan probably wants replacing too. It's usually why the resistor fails in the first place. Replace loads of resistor packs at work and half of them fail again within months because of high resistance fans. Try GSF or euro for the resistor too. They are quite cheap usually.
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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Apr 26, 2014 23:04:51 GMT
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The fan probably wants replacing too. It's usually why the resistor fails in the first place. Replace loads of resistor packs at work and half of them fail again within months because of high resistance fans. Try GSF or euro for the resistor too. They are quite cheap usually. I think you're right there, the fan was pretty well seized before I got to it. Neither of those factors seem to do the resistor, they both do the fan but want all the monies for one. I'll make do with a one speed fan for now I think... Had a bit of free time this morning so I decided to start wet+dry papering the artwork off the bonnet. I got about three quarters of the way there, and I now have a VW hover-bus on the bonnet. Whilst I was flatting back the orange peely paint on the wing and drivers door, I noticed that the front edge of the door didn't quite look right... Mmm, filler... seems there was a hefty dent on the front edge of the door that also caused the frame to go a bit banana'd - which explains why the back edge of the door doesn't sit properly in relation to the rear door. Seeing as I was toying with the idea of getting a new door anyway due to the rust on the bottom edge, I'll definitely be getting a new one now I've found this. Will be a lot quicker and easier than trying to sort this one out! Shouldn't be too expensive either, just need to keep an eye out for a Lachs Silver four door shell driver's door now.
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Last Edit: Apr 26, 2014 23:06:21 GMT by MrOtter
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GavinJ
Club Retro Rides Member
MGB 3.9 v8 Sebring
Posts: 927
Club RR Member Number: 209
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1989 BMW E30 325i TouringGavinJ
@gavinj
Club Retro Rides Member 209
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Good progress! I miss my old e30. I have a set of those skirts in my garage including both end caps, they are off a 4 door e30 (genuine BMW) so assume they are the same. Where are you based? Pm me don't want a lot for them
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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Last week I decided to have a go at turning off the dash inspection lights. I started with this, only one green light (as far as I know the green lights act as a sort of countdown to oil change/inspection time), and the inspection light on: So, following advice from the internet, I made a fused jumper wire and connected the couple of appropriate pins on the big diagnostic socket under the bonnet. This proved mostly successful, as the inspection light went away and I had four out of five green lights. I've turned the ignition on a few times over the past few days and I sometimes get four and sometimes get all five lights, so I assume there's a loose connection somewhere. Not really that bothered though, I'll be checking this thing over far more often than the dash tells me to! I finished removing the artwork from the bonnet, and found that there was a big section of the front corner that had been rattle canned in a close-ish match silver. I decided to sand this off as well to see what else was underneath - strangely enough, 90% of the paint under the patch was fine. The only bit of bad paintwork underneath was on the very corner, which looked like it had some rust removed as there was a bit of filler and a patch of bare metal. You can kind of see it in this pic, but the bonnet was still wet so it's not very clear. Basically, it just ended in me having to re-spray this little patch (currently still in primer). A lot better than I was expecting due to the large amount of other stuff that had been plastered over the bonnet! Still a way to go with flatting back and polishing out all the scratches I've put in to the bonnet getting the artwork off. Think I'm going to invest in a DA first, my hands still hurt days later from all that sanding.... I won't be able to get a decent enough colour match blended in to make me happy, so my current plan is to do something I didn't want to do to this car... put some stickers on it. Even worse, I'm planning on putting some M-stripes on a non-M car, which usually just annoys me (although this car does have a factory fit M-tech steering wheel, so I can find some justification in that). I'm going to try and put some stripes on the corner of the bonnet to separate the re-sprayed patch and the rest of the bonnet, in the hope that nobody will notice it's two slightly different colours. At the weekend, the postman delivered two grey sports seat back panels. The seats I bought came like this: One had a black panel and one had nothing at all. The two replacements aren't exactly the same colour, but it's close enough and better than having nothing. The seats need a strip down and some repairs to weld broken things back in place, so I'll be doing that sometime soon before fitting them - along with getting the driver's lower bolster repaired. End of last week I took a trip in to Birmingham to see a guy that was breaking a 325 touring exactly like mine. I came away with a few things - firstly was the factory emergency jack, wheel chock, and wheel brace, which were missing from my car. I also got a few clips to hold in the rear panel in the boot, as 4 out of the 6 were missing on mine. The rubber window weather strips were very crusty on my car, with the front passenger side one falling apart pretty catastrophically. So, I got a set of said weather strips in almost perfect condition, and the corresponding cover trims in case I bend mine. There are only three strips/panels here because the other ones are still fitted to the replacement door I also bought... The top bit of trim in the pic below is the missing piece from the bottom edge of the window on the tailgate. The main thing I went there for was a replacement drivers door! It's been resprayed at some point, so it doesn't exactly match the colour of my car, and it's got a few little scrapes and some rust on the bottom inside lip, but it's a lot better than the original door. Not too bad for only £40 anyway. Next update on door rust repair and fitment coming soon...
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Last Edit: May 5, 2014 17:13:22 GMT by MrOtter
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shin2chin
Part of things
Making curse word cars slightly better
Posts: 820
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Your boot is probably leaking through the rear light clusters. Take em out and reseal with butyl tape off eBay or silicone. I've also got a brand new drivers side wing if your interested?
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1977 PORSCHE 2.0na 924 1974 VW Beetle 1600
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,239
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1989 BMW E30 325i TouringRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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I won't be able to get a decent enough colour match blended in to make me happy. Why not? Go to an automotive paint supplier and get them to mix some 1K in a HVLP aerosol to the colour on the car. It's only marginally more expensive than halfords muck.
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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I won't be able to get a decent enough colour match blended in to make me happy. Why not? Go to an automotive paint supplier and get them to mix some 1K in a HVLP aerosol to the colour on the car. It's only marginally more expensive than halfords muck. Because rattle can patches never blend in perfectly, and I'd always notice that when I walk up to the car. Also, stripes are cheaper than getting more paint Aiming for something like this, but a bit smaller and obviously on the other side:
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,239
Club RR Member Number: 160
Member is Online
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1989 BMW E30 325i TouringRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Why not? Go to an automotive paint supplier and get them to mix some 1K in a HVLP aerosol to the colour on the car. It's only marginally more expensive than halfords muck. Because rattle can patches never blend in perfectly, and I'd always notice that when I walk up to the car. Also, stripes are cheaper than getting more paint Aiming for something like this, but a bit smaller and obviously on the other side: Says you. I know a lot of people who would disagree. But the stripes will look good
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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This was the rust I had to deal with on the bottom edge of the door. Firstly I peeled off all of the seam sealer that was loose - ended up going quite a long way along the door. Then wire wheeled off what I could. There's still rust in the actual seam, in the fold of the outer skin, but hopefully I've delayed it's progression with the next step... Which was to liberally soak the area in some rust treatment stuff, which you can kind of see in this photo. I also cleaned out the inside cavity of the door and plastered the inside part of the skin seam with the rust treatment. That photo above also shows the window regulator from the car fitted in to the replacement door, along with the glass from my car, as the glass that came with the door had the number plate of the donor vehicle etched in to it and was a bit more scratched than mine. Back to the rust - after a couple of days to let the rust treatment settle in, I put a few coats of zinc primer over the top and then tried my best to squidge some seam sealer along the edge. I also scraped back/rust treated/painted this little section of the back side of the mirror mount, as this was breaking out with a good few rust scabs. Once the seam sealer had dried, I put a few top coats of some colour "matched" paint I picked up from the previous owner last weekend, along with some clearcoat over the top of that. The matched colour is actually pretty far off being matched, it's too 'silvery', but it's close enough for the underside of the door where nobody will ever look... looks a lot better than before anyway. Hopefully the rust stays at bay for a while now I've done this... I also cleaned up and painted the jack I bought at the same as the door. Whilst I had the painting stuff out I finally got round to finishing off the rust repairs on the tailgate. Going to leave it a couple of weeks and then try my best to blend in the patch on the top left that you can see there... I also fitted the lower finishing strip for the window. Oddly, it was about an inch and a half too short, so I decided to fill up the gaps on the ends with a bit of windscreen sealant. Then I cleaned up and put back on the number plate mounting/surround panel thingy. I gave it a coat of boiled linseed oil to bring out the colour again.
Next update shall be fitting the door...
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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Because rattle can patches never blend in perfectly, and I'd always notice that when I walk up to the car. Also, stripes are cheaper than getting more paint Aiming for something like this, but a bit smaller and obviously on the other side: Says you. I know a lot of people who would disagree. But the stripes will look good To be fair, I know it's just because I've always used cheap Halfords paint - no doubt using better stuff would yield a better finish. But my comment of the stripes being cheaper still stands
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 919
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Nice E30 , Id love an estate one some day , ive got a 1986 318i 2 door saloon or is that coupe ? which is looking very unloved at present , your putting me to shame . Mines now Carmine red but with a weathered matt look
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Last Edit: May 6, 2014 18:31:27 GMT by remmoc
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,239
Club RR Member Number: 160
Member is Online
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1989 BMW E30 325i TouringRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Says you. I know a lot of people who would disagree. But the stripes will look good To be fair, I know it's just because I've always used cheap Halfords paint - no doubt using better stuff would yield a better finish. But my comment of the stripes being cheaper still stands I don't know though, will it be vinyl or paint? If it's paint 3 cans of halfords paint will be as much as buying the 1k to do the job properly. My brother did a lot of training in bodywork before deciding it wasn't for him and he used some matched 1k aerosol the other day and was commenting on how nice it was to use. And I did repairs to the wings on THAT Nissan absolutely seamlessly in terms of colour match and lacquer because it was matched colour. I repaired the end of a mk3 gol wing once with satin black, lacquer and patience and it was almost invisible. But. The stripes will still be cool no mater what
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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Rich, it'll be vinyl, I've bought a set of three rolls of the appropriate colours off ebay for £13. There's 1.2m worth, so plenty to cover other blemishes in the future I might end up getting some nice 1K anyway, to go over that patch on the bootlid if I can't get it looking decent with what's on there now. Then I shall ironically wonder why I bothered with the stickers; but like you say, hopefully they'll end up looking cool anyway! Thanks remmoc, have you got a project thread? Love the chrome touches on the early cars like yours. I've seen people arguing about the saloon/coupe thing, quite funny really! Seems that the "proper" term is a 2dr saloon, but who really cares, it's a cool car and that's all you need to know. So then, fitting the door. First thing I had to do, obviously, was get the old door off. Unplugged the wiring loom from the pillar, nice and easy. Then found that the circlip that should be holding in the dowel pin on the door stay catch was missing... not too much of an issue, I just fashioned something similar to a circlip for when it went back together. Not sure how necessary it is anyway seeing as the pin was still there even though the circlip had gone walkies. Then I was ready to undo the two bolts that hold the hinge halves together. At first, I thought the bottom one was almost all the way wound out and I was lucky to catch it there - but no. It was a bolt that was twice as long as it needed to be and too small with a different thread, so I could just pull it out... I assume someone just hammered it in and hoped for the best. At least the top bolt was still there and correct! So, just like the missing water pump bolt, I found a replacement for the lower hinge the right size and thread, but a bit too long. So, hacksaw and file again... This is why you keep random old nuts and bolts - you never know when they might come in handy Beach buggy style... On with the new one! I was kind of surprised that it went on perfectly first time and didn't need any adjustment on the hinges! Just bolted on and clunked solidly shut. Guess that shows how good the quality control was at BMW - I'm more used to Minis where sometimes you won't believe a panel came off an identical car due to the bad fitment. On with the ancillaries - job done. I also fitted the grey doorcard as part of my very gradual interior swap, but didn't think it was worth a picture yet without the front seats in. That's all up to date now, don't know what I'll do next but you can expect a random update coming to your screens sometime soon. Thanks for reading!
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 919
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Thanks remmoc, have you got a project thread? Love the chrome touches on the early cars like yours. I've seen people arguing about the saloon/coupe thing, quite funny really! Seems that the "proper" term is a 2dr saloon, but who really cares, it's a cool car and that's all you need to know. Hi , no project thread as apart from drive it for four years ive basically done zilch , ive only taken three photos of it since ive had it none of which i can find , i need to sort it out really and follow your lead , il take some pics as it is though and continue following your updates which might spur me to actually doing something
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Last Edit: May 6, 2014 21:29:20 GMT by remmoc
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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May 10, 2014 17:42:04 GMT
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I've now stripped down the sports seats and am in the process of reassembling them. The passenger seat frame and mechanisms were still in perfect condition, so I used that one as a template to see how the driver's seat should be repaired. With the backrest removed, you can see how the backrest is attached to the base - a bolt on each side through captive nuts on these very small, flimsy L-shape brackets. As you might expect, the passenger's seat hasn't seen as much use as the driver's seat, so these brackets are still in one piece. However, it's common for them to snap through heavy use, which is what had happened to my driver's seat along with one of the brackets being completely missing. So, this is what the passenger seat looked like with the backrest removed. Following advice from the internet, I put a big fillet of weld on the inside edge of the brackets to give them some more strength and hopefully to stop them from ever snapping. What prompted me to look for damage to the seat frames was that the other day I decided to have a play around with the seats, and the driver's one went a bit wonky when I tried to recline it... So, pulling the backrest off the driver's seat yielded this handful of stuff that shouldn't be there. Some lovely metallic snot in there... I actually pulled out quite a bit more of that awful welding, which just flaked off with a pair of pliers. As I mentioned, the seat base was missing one bracket completely, and the other one was snapped, as per the pic below (snapped bit sitting on the seat). Luckily, the snapped bit was snot welded to the inside of the backrest for no apparent reason, so I pulled it off with some pliers and welded it back where it should be. I added a bit more weld after that photo ^ to try and give it more strength. I then set about making another bracket for the other side, obviously using the existing one as a template. So, I first cut the shape from a thick steel bracket (ignore the random hole, it was just there in the bracket I found...) Then I drilled a hole in the right place and welded a nut on the inside. Then I welded it to the seat base bracket. So, that was the seat base all sorted, but there was also damage to the backrest frame that I had to deal with. The pointy bits of the top of the seat base brackets slot in to a hole on each side of the backrest to keep it in position. These slots are what you can see just to the right of the centre in the photo below, formed by the outer edge of the frame and a little beam running up the inside of the frame. Now, to get some more angles on that slot, it shows how the little outer beam thingy there hasn't fared well with the flexing of the seat. The other side of the backrest was still just about attached, but there was heavy cracking evident, along with two completely useless blobs of weld in the middle of the little beam. It was pretty tight to get the welder in there, and I had to be careful not to burn off the foam, but I managed to get the snapped one re-attached (I think...) along with trying to strengthen the un-snapped one. I then gave everything a coat of paint and let it dry for the night. The next day, I set about disassembling the driver's seat base so I could remove the ripped bolster (which you can see above) and take it to be repaired. The knob for the knee support adjustment at the front of the seat had obviously been broken before and glued back in place. It took a hell of a lot of force to pull it off once I realised I couldn't get away with leaving it where it was... I finally got the leather off the foam in the end, after much faffing about with all the hooks and hog rings holding it in place. As you can see, the foam now has a bit of a hole in it from the wear through the bolster, so I'll try and fill that with some more foam before it goes back together. The leather cover is currently at a local upholsterers and I'll hopefully be picking it up on Monday. It's not just the stitching that's come apart, but the actual leather has ripped along the seam, so hopefully the upholsterer can still make something good from it... Now I've got this big pile of seat bits to remember how to put back together again once I get the bolster cover back. Also, the other day I went to Bucklands scrapyard for a wander round with a couple of mates. I didn't go there with the intention of buying anything, but whilst looking round the cars I had an idea to find a fold out cupholder assembly from something to put in the E30. Eventually I found this piece of wonderous engineering, suitably lifted from a BMW E39 Touring A quick mock-up shows that it'll fit perfectly at the top of this little cubby hole, I just need to find some way of mounting it! Pretty chuffed it fits so well, only cost me £3 too. That's all for now.
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Last Edit: May 10, 2014 18:01:15 GMT by MrOtter
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MrOtter
West Midlands
"Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog
Posts: 281
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May 11, 2014 23:23:08 GMT
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The speakers I ordered off the interwebs turned up a couple of days ago, so yesterday I set about installing them and then trying to figure out the stereo wiring. First thing I did was install the rear speakers. Then I went up front to sort out the wiring and put the front speakers in. Luckily BMW provides you with this nice 'accessory socket' under the dash, in which all the optional extras (such as electric windows, heated seats, etc) are plugged in to. The stereo power loom comes from here (it's the white plug on the top row), with the appropriate wires for the permanent live, switched live, and ground. Whilst I was there, I finally discovered where that big yellow/green wire went. When I got the car, it was just laying around loose in the boot. I'd assumed it was something to do with the speakers, but the factory speaker wiring was still in place, and there wasn't anywhere obvious it was supposed to go. As you can see from above, it went the length of the car and connected in to something on the accessory socket via the use of a chocolate block, which turned out to be something to do with the central locking loom (according to a diagram I found on the internet anyway, hence why I knew what one the stereo plug was). I have literally no idea why it was there, and disconnecting it did nothing, so I just pulled it out of the car and moved on! Back to the stereo wiring, for some reason the switched live was cut and taped off about halfway along the loom towards the stereo position, and there was just the permanent live and the ground available. So, I lengthened the switched live wire, crimped on some connectors and then connected everything up to the stereo harness. Thankfully it all works as it should! The stereo (left over from the BX) powers up, and all speakers are getting a signal. I've ordered an ISO plug to wire all the loose speaker wires in to, then I can neatly plug that in to the stereo harness and I'll be sorted for the major bit of the stereo/speaker install. Some day I'll find a position for the compact sub I've got left over from the BX and then run the wires for that. In fact, I'll probably run the wires for that when I've got the carpet out to check the floorpan, when I've got the front seats removed, for when I'll be swapping in the sports seats... Whilst I was tidying up wiring, I thought I'd have a look at these crusty old ultrasonic sensors from an ancient alarm install. Although, that being said, maybe they were just put there as a deterrent... there's no other evidence of an alarm install that I've found yet... Basically, they both just ran down behind the A-pillar trim and went nowhere, with cut off wires tucked up behind the dash. At least that meant they were easy to pull out and throw in the bin! I've also just had this delivered to me, an upgraded ECU EPROM chip to give me a bit more power, fuel economy, and throttle repsonse. Normally I wouldn't trust such suspiciously perfect claims, but they've had plenty of good reviews over on the E30 Zone forum, so thought I might as well get one! I won't be fitting it for a while, I kind of want to see what the car is like standard first, so I can see how much of an improvement the chip makes and to be able to appreciate the investment!
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Last Edit: May 11, 2014 23:27:18 GMT by MrOtter
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