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Jun 26, 2014 22:44:32 GMT
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Now back from honeymoon and back into swing of it with work, and last day of hols had a few hours at the retro show Santa pod has spurred me on for more progress. Been getting the front end built up, hit se issues already with the awkward assembly of the coilovers having to have spacers to centralise them, these will be to change springs when the subframe is bolted to the chassis Especially the top ones, I think I'm going to do away with the rubber bush and use 2 piece poly bush with some stepped tubes if you get my drift
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Jun 27, 2014 20:13:51 GMT
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Had some time today. Finally put some castors on the spit to move it around, had a mishap with the weld cracking where I had welded an old flywheel to use as the locking device, it totally separated from the pivot tube! Could really badly damaged the shell if it had fallen, luckily didn't. Anyway got some progress going on the rear end, built up Other hub and welded up too arm so I can start looking at the coilover mounting positions, think nice settled on the last option as being the best as it gives a 30 degree angle on the coilover which is a correction factor of around 0.75, with the springs I have that's around 200ft/lbs, which I'm hoping will work out. May have time over the weekend to get them installed. Hope the readers (if any) can work out from pics what's going on, any input at these stages greatly appreciated as I'm only using info I've gathered from the web, not personal experience!
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Jun 29, 2014 17:38:20 GMT
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Jun 29, 2014 17:40:32 GMT
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Not sure if should put a rib in to tie in the shock mounts all the way across, a 4mm plate maybe drilled out to lighten It
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Jun 29, 2014 20:01:30 GMT
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Wicked build, awesome skill, keep up the great work.
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Jun 29, 2014 21:19:59 GMT
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Wicked build, awesome skill, keep up the great work. Cheers mate, pretty slick skills yourself with the lotus air ride build!
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,117
Club RR Member Number: 134
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This thread is tremendous! Lovely engineering going on here. Bookmarked!
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Not sure if should put a rib in to tie in the shock mounts all the way across, a 4mm plate maybe drilled out to lighten It I think I would. My guess is that because of the lenght it will try to bent or turn the horizontal bar they're welded too.
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This thread is tremendous! Lovely engineering going on here. Bookmarked! Thanks!!!
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Not sure if should put a rib in to tie in the shock mounts all the way across, a 4mm plate maybe drilled out to lighten It I think I would. My guess is that because of the lenght it will try to bent or turn the horizontal bar they're welded too. I agree, even though the box section is super tough, any flex needs to be prevented
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Dismantled a shaft last night to check it out for shortening And it's a no go. The spline ends are wider than the inner shaft material so cannot extend the splines and shorten that way . I really don't want to just cut them and sleeve as heard too many hit and miss attempts. So I'm going to have to go the custom route which means £££! So they will have to wait for now .
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I agree on bracing the coilover mounts, I have seen many cars built like that, and even with shorter "arms" you tend to get noticeable flex.
What are the hubs/driveshafts/diff from, BMW? If so, they have rather standardized GKN joints, it's very likely you can find other driveshafts that fit. That said, here in Sweden custom driveshafts are not stupidly expensive either.
Regards Gustaf
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I agree on bracing the coilover mounts, I have seen many cars built like that, and even with shorter "arms" you tend to get noticeable flex. What are the hubs/driveshafts/diff from, BMW? If so, they have rather standardized GKN joints, it's very likely you can find other driveshafts that fit. That said, here in Sweden custom driveshafts are not stupidly expensive either. Regards Gustaf Template made for brace and dropped off to my steel man to cut out as I don't have any 4mm plate in and he prob won't charm me. They are bmw e28, quite beefy and more robust than the more modern stuff, and probably the shortest bmw shaft tbh, I've had quite so far of 275+vat each for custom shafts! May have to cut and sleeve as a temporary measure. Have ordered some studs for the rear wheels to bolt up, and some press in longer studs for the front hubs. Have been in the fine to my engineers who are modifying the senator discs to get a move on as I'm ready for them, I can then get the two subframe laid out and start measuring up for the chassis rails. Most important job on the list now is TO TIDY UP!!!!! The workshop looks like a nuclear war head has been dropped on it lol
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What kind of length do you need for the shafts? It's not impossible that for example the VW busses have shorter shafts that fit.
£ 275 + VAT is a bit more that I paid I think but not extreme...still a decent chunk of money though.
Cut and sleeve is fine for working out the correct length and to get the car mobile.
Regards
Gustaf
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,745
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Had you thought about putting a couple of tension rods in to close to the damper connection point? (Red lines, apologies for posting a pic in your thread) You might get a lot of vibration in the top arm without something tying it, especially if the springs are hard. You'd get away with quite a small tube as well as its mainly acting in tension. Custom shafts arent normally too bad. These guys normally do fairly cheap ones. www.berrisford.co.uk (although the site is down at the moment) Autocross / grass isn't really gentle on them either :-)
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No need to apologise for pic, I' appreciate any advice or ideas all helps! I haven't considered that as an option so good call!
I'll give that company call, cheers
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As I'm waiting for brake discs to be machined still and only have one hub, started looking at engine placement today and tenuous sump issue that seems to be the main issue with most engine transplants, I think I'm going to just but the bullet and make one and have it tig'd up in ally, that way the engine can be out exactly where I want it without compromise. Did manage to get an oil filter take off plate made up rest for welding Needs a few tweeks, I want to move the -10AN bosses apart slightly but it come out lovely, bloody hours if work for small part!
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Mine took a while to make by hand as well, so did many other parts. Then I found a decent engineering company. Where you just email them the CAD file and they either water jet or laser cut the things. Save a lot of time, time which could be spent doing something else to the car. Its cheap to as they have the metal waiting ready to go in bulk and it more accurate than a file and vernier calipers. Don't forget the oil seals.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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great build so far, but your rear arms look almost parallel, do you know where your roll centre is a ride height?
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