75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
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Hi , repairing the sills and arches on my MX5.
Where I have used a flap wheel to prep the metal for welding, I removed the factory stone chip/underseal stuff.
Not the repair is done I need to level the surface with some stonechip/underseal stuff.
I got some Hammerite white stuff from Halfords, but even after 5 thick coats its still no where near thick enough to bring it level with the factory stuff.
Can someone recommend a super thick stone chip that comes in a aerosol can and will give that original stippled finish?
Cheers!
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90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf 79 MGB Roadster 88 Saab 900i Convertible 94 MK1 MX5 1.6 05 Volvo V70
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Your problem the fact your using aerosols as thick stuff will not spray from an aerosol.
Go to a proppa motor factors and get a tin of brush on seem sealer warm it up in a pan of water and bosh it on with a brush then spread it out with a small roller.
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rodney
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport
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75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
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Your problem the fact your using aerosols as thick stuff will not spray from an aerosol. Go to a proppa motor factors and get a tin of brush on seem sealer warm it up in a pan of water and bosh it on with a brush then spread it out with a small roller. Good call!! I have seam sealer in the garage!!
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90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf 79 MGB Roadster 88 Saab 900i Convertible 94 MK1 MX5 1.6 05 Volvo V70
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taurus
Posted a lot
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Comma do an aerosol stonechip that comes out pretty thick from the can. You'll probably need more than a single coat, but it's got good body to it.
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I used a aerosol called "gravi guard" came out quite thick and looked the part when on
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grumpy
Part of things
Posts: 557
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Don't use seam sealer , its for what it says , sealing seams . Shutz is the stuff you need . It might be a good idea to strip all the sills if you can then it will look uniform , if your cars nice and tidy .
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Seam sealer will be fine if you already have it it is completely fit for the purpose requested its just an expensive way of doing it.
And how the hell can he use shutz without a decent size compressor.......
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grumpy
Part of things
Posts: 557
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store.wigancarpaints.co.uk/Aerosol_StonechipThis is more or less the same as shutz , its made by the same makers tetrosyl . Its not expensive , it wont break the bank . Use the right stuff for the right job . Lets not start a argument usedabused .
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goldnrust
West Midlands
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Posts: 1,872
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If it any help when I did some work on my mums mx5 I also tried to use the Hammerite aerosol stone chip and couldn't get the right finish. In the end I used the Tetrosyl stone chip that's used with a compressor and was very happy with the results, it was a spot on match to the factory finish. So if you don't have access to a compressor then I'd give the Tetrosyl aerosol stone chip ago, as grumpy suggests
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No arguments "GRUMPY" you can have them all by yourself....
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75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
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Cheers guys appreciate all the help!
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90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf 79 MGB Roadster 88 Saab 900i Convertible 94 MK1 MX5 1.6 05 Volvo V70
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75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
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Cheers guys appreciate all the help!
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90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf 79 MGB Roadster 88 Saab 900i Convertible 94 MK1 MX5 1.6 05 Volvo V70
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Upol Gravaitex is a good close match, 3m spray sealer is the best match as per orginal, but alot more exspensive!
Hope that helps Charlie.
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brocky
Part of things
Posts: 100
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Ill 2nd gravitex, used it on my eunos and it was a good match to put the colour coat over.
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Current Projects-
1971 Vauxhall Firenza
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sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
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Another positive for gravitex from me. I'll be using it on my cavalier today You can actually brush it on if you don't have a compressor and get good results. If I'm doing it this way I stipple the first coat on so it goes on thick and textured. When it dries just paint a second coat over it normally and your good to go. It takes longer than spraying obviously but has similar results. If I remember I'll put a photo up later today. I'm sure it needs to have a top coat tho as it's porous.
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Last Edit: Apr 6, 2014 7:01:15 GMT by sal
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I think what you're all forgetting here is that once the metal is bare ideally the first chemical to hit the surface ought to be etch primer. That has an acid in it which really bites into the metal and provides a good base for whatever you put on next. I'd probably put something else on after the etch primer. Ideally a coat of 2-pack factory grade paint. Or maybe some Hammerite stonechip from Halfords (but never normal hammerite as it contains chemicals which seem to react badly with almost all other paints!) Then to get a factory-like finish the final coating has to be MIPA. 3M also do the same range in the same style containers and it's just as good, particularly since 3m is a particularly trustworthy brand. On my long-term project car it didn't have much rust, like 1 or 2 tiny blobs, so rather than removing very good Saab underseal I just cleaned it up and applied a coat of MIPA stonechip followed by a coat of the softer grade. So my chassis now has Saab coating plus another two coatings.
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""Factory" style rubberised underseal is available from VW. It needs compressor application and doesn't cost much more than aftermarket stuff . It's used on manufacturer warranty repairs etc
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Can anyone recommend a suitable compressor size / output for applying the under seal and paint? I've been wanting to get one but haven't got a clue how big it needs to be. I want to be able to run impact gun, air chisel etc.
Also, which under seal can be painted over as want the underside to match the body colour? Thanks
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86 Vauxhall Cav cabrio
99 Peugeot 306 rallye
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78 Fiesta 950 L
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rodney
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you can push your luck doing small bits with a 25ltr compressor , but ideally a 50 ltr or bigger will be better for the bigger panels if doing it diy style , ive done a whole car with a 50 ltr , had to let it catch up a bit but it worked ok , I now use a 200 ltr,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport
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