|
|
|
Good question. And is ride height determined by pressure? I assume so. Generally speaking, yes, but there are systems (expensive) that can be fine tuned by height sensors. We are doing some amazing things with air at the moment. Will sort some pics, but am limited to what I can post at the moment as I'm on my phone.
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
Stu_B
Posted a lot
Investing in rust!
Posts: 1,266
|
|
|
Cool stuff! What management does that Polish kit come with? Manual paddle switches?
I'm building a system for my Beetle at the moment. Already have the compressor & tank installed with the front running air shocks through a manual paddle switch. I'm fitting rear bags at the moment and upgrading to solenoid valve system on momentary switches. Which valves would you recommend for a home build kit? Will only be 2 way I think.
|
|
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
|
This is part of an installation we put together from scratch for an almost brand new VW Caddy. Due to the nature of the rear suspension on the van it took a lot of custom fabrication to achieve, but now has full four-way adjustable air ride.
It was then upgraded with an E-Level system, which works off ride-height sensors rather than from pressure, which is more capable of very fine tuning. Just the kit for level sensors and controller is a shade under £2000 without anything else. It is a quality piece of kit though. The controller feels like something Apple made. And that brings me nicely onto the next upgrade we carried out and that was to fit a module to allow you to control the ride height from an iPhone! This is the E-Level controller
The ride level sensors and custom weld-on plates to complete a nice install
And at the other end of the spectrum, here's a cheap and nasty Polish kit supplied by a customer to fit to his 9N Polo. Does the job, but we had to replace several components that were supplied incorrectly or not up to scratch. The O-Rings and some of the fittings just weren't fit for purpose. Cheap way into 4-way air ride though. Good stuff but how does that top mount articulate on the strut? I really like the idea of air, but I just don't have a car it'd suit, nor plans to buy one. Although that said, a basic/compact system on the Scirocco certainly wouldn't go a miss.
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 3, 2014 16:44:45 GMT by RobinJI
|
|
|
|
|
how does that top mount articulate on the strut? . Wouldn't the standard rubbers that are supplied with the shocks do the job?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thats some impressive looking bits but where's the car they are fitted to :-)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cool stuff! What management does that Polish kit come with? Manual paddle switches? I'm building a system for my Beetle at the moment. Already have the compressor & tank installed with the front running air shocks through a manual paddle switch. I'm fitting rear bags at the moment and upgrading to solenoid valve system on momentary switches. Which valves would you recommend for a home build kit? Will only be 2 way I think. You can see a box in the photo that has "Accuair" on it (best make for Air gear). That's an Accuair VU4 Manifold. We adapted that to suit the installation, but it does work off manual paddle switches, yes. It's a nightmare really every time you get in the car you have to wait and make sure all you needles are spot on. The E-Level has auto settings, so you can default it to different ride heights or change everything so easily, but it is expensive. But my recommendation would be to use at least the Accuair Manifold (VU2 if you're only going two way). There are cheaper American options, but it's worth the extra for a decent manifold. It's not stupidly expensive and I can get you a quote if you like (hopefully be able to beat any other UK supplier). To suit the Polish kit we cut the switch off and made a custom loom to suit the system (not overly difficult or expensive)
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
|
|
|
The Caddy install was pretty complex. It's hard to explain all the issues that had to be overcome. I need to get some more photos off our fabricator as I only have limited photos on my phone/PC. Those top mounts have now been changed though for a newer design, which allows for an extra 3/4" drop
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
|
|
|
This is the Caddy. Still very much a WIP. I'll get some more photos gathered together of it. We have a 54-Plate in at the moment for a similar treatment. And for something a little more Retro we have a 1971 Beetle running on air, Porsche wheels, Porsche seats, Porsche brakes and an 1800 running about 120bhp, which doesn't sound a lot, but is pretty lairy in a Beetle in the wet!
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
|
|
|
Nice. And please can we see the beetle!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'll get some photos posted. It's just been parked to one side at the moment ready to have some work done next week. Once it's out in the open I'll get some photos of it. It's a nice car. Owner has had it over 25 years now and he's bringing his 1970 911 in soon for a full rebuild.
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
|
how does that top mount articulate on the strut? . Wouldn't the standard rubbers that are supplied with the shocks do the job? Those plates appear to be to replace the original rubber top-mount. They also appear to be holding the damper at a fixed angle, which is why I asked. The shock needs to be able to move through a slight angle with the top mount, it can't just be bolted solidly too it or the only way the suspension and steering can work is by flexing the damper rod.
|
|
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
Definitely needs a spherical bearing in there.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Here's a couple more pictures which may help explain a little better how that set-up works
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
|
That lets the bag rotate around the top mount yeah, good plan to have it there, but it doesn't let the struts angle change relative to the shell. Which it does do as the suspension compresses/extends, and as you steer. It's why every solid top-mount you can buy for motorsport has a spherical bearing in it, to allow the strut free movement.
I'm not meaning to be a prick, and I can clearly see the quality of construction's great, but it looks like you've overlooked this on the design so I'm just trying to point it out before any damage is done.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'll ask the question tomorrow, but I'm sure there will be an explanation. That install is on our fabricators own van for which there are no kits or any such like available so he's built it from scratch.
|
|
Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
If you show him this: He basically needs to recreate that, but obviously with the bearing/housing in the centre. You may find it will drop lower when that's sorted, as at the moment when the bag is at full drop there's going to be some serious misalignment trying to happen.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I run solid top mounts on coilovers that have spherical bearings, you can see how they move when changing the steering angle. A solid (non-spherical) bearing being used in the top mount is not going to work properly, and have a lot of stress put on it with any steering, could result in something very nasty..
|
|
|
|
VIP
South East
Posts: 8,293
|
|
|
Jeez, that looks lethal.
I'll just echo the sentiments of those above, if that top mount only allows rotational movement of the piston, and no lateral movement, you're opening yourself up to a very dangerous situation on the road, and a potential lawsuit from any customer.
|
|
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
|
Should be an easy fix at least. Weld one of these to the top mount plate instead of the cone shaped bit ( click) throw one of these in it ( click) then bolt it to the strut with an appropriate washer/spacer underneath to make your existing bearing clear the housing, and one of these or these (depending on the thread on your damper) on top to reduce the bearing down the the thread size. Sorted, smooth movement in all directions. Looks like it should be a really nice set-up with that done.
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 7, 2014 19:14:45 GMT by RobinJI
|
|
|