dbdb
Part of things
Posts: 821
|
|
|
So I tried out the 50mph full throttle kick down today, in normal mode it didn't kick down at all and just held what I assume was 4th. In 'sport' mode it kicked down one gear and accelerated a bit more quickly. So perhaps the normal mode is an economy mode.. haven't had a look at the switch wiring yet so theres more investigation to be done. In other news, the Jag gave me a mini scare when I started it for the first time after getting back from a weeks holiday, the ABS and brake warning lights came on with the engine.. a bit of brake pumping and they went off within a few metres, so I'm assuming it was just a jag electrical quirk, the brakes still work fine Also today I picked up some new wheels For me there is one style of wheel that just works on these jags and that is the lattice style wheel, particularly in 16" flavour rather than the more common 15" I've been told they're the rarer 16x8 Sport pack upgrade wheels and originally came off an XJ12, the width means theres a nice bit of dishhh A couple of the tyres are a little old, but I'll swap around till I get a good set of 5 I'm also planning to paint the centres black despite the fact that I said that I'd never paint a crosspoke alloy again after the MG wheels hopefully I'll get these sorted a bit quicker, they're huge so they're taking up too much space in the flat already haha I don't have any experience with the 4 litre, but that doesn't sound right. The 4 litre's transmission is electronically controlled, so all a bit voodoo for me after the simplicity of the transmission in my 3.2. The ZF4HP24 is a robust thing though, most problems seem to stem from corrosion on the pins of the plug mounted on the transmission under the car, or from control modules being faulty or not quite plugged in correctly, from what I have read. Problems rarely seem terminal. It is worth you joining Jag-Lovers if you haven't already. That forum has incredibly old fashioned technology and can be difficult to use, but the knowledge there, particularly in the archives, is simply amazing. Any/all imaginable transmission problem will have been covered by someone, I'm sure! The 16" lattice wheels are the best looking alloys fitted to the XJ40 in my view! Good choice! They tend to be expensive though, which is why I don't have a set! The 15" lattice wheels were never officially fitted to the XJ40, though dealers did put them on to cars. They were an XJ-S alloy wheel. The 8J x 16" forged lattice alloys were available on any Xj40 from 1990/91, but were the standard fitment on earlier XJ12s. Later XJ12s were downgraded to the 20 spoke wheels your car has as one of the many cost saving measures made by ford in the 1994 cars. 16" Forged lattice wheels were made by BBS and an expensive option. Jaguar were charging £1,776 for them on an XJ6 in 1992, for example. The 7J x 16" version of the forged lattice wheel was for the XJ-S, but they will fit the XJ40. David David
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nice, need pics of them one the car asap though
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,865
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
|
Once again you come up trumps with the info dbdb thanks for the info about the wheels thats very interesting, an expensive option when new too! The gearbox is still working fine so I'll read up on xj40.com and jag lovers and see if I can find anything amiss joem83 haha I'm very tempted to go and stick a pair on to see what they look like but that may have to wait until I paint them
|
|
|
|
Curtis
Part of things
Posts: 622
|
|
|
|
|
Driving: Shitbox Honda S-MX
|
|
bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
|
|
|
My constructive advice is don't do the centres black. You will loose all the definition on the spokes, grey maybe but not black they will just end up looking like solid black centres....
Other than that great wheel choice and carry on
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,865
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
|
My constructive advice is don't do the centres black. You will loose all the definition on the spokes, grey maybe but not black they will just end up looking like solid black centres.... Other than that great wheel choice and carry on Mmm that had been my concern also initially, though as I've got some gloss black and 5 wheels, I may do the spare black as a tester to make my mind up before looking for some dark grey Dark bronze had also been a potential colour option which I was thinking about.. Another update on the gearbox front, went for a drive tonight and tried to get it to kick down in normal mode again, held my foot down for longer than before ( a good few seconds) and sure enough it did eventually kick down two gears and held onto 2nd all the way to 5750rpm where I let off as it was getting pretty fast by that point
|
|
|
|
bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
|
|
|
I've always used the punch technique to get kickdown on most gearboxes. You are making a signal hitting the switch, holding full throttle for seconds to get kickdown sounds wrong and probably the shock when it does change might not be great for the drivetrain.
Punch once for one gear and punch again for another when you feel the box has already dropped the initial gear. Done well passengers shouldn't even feel it....
Try it
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,865
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
|
That was my first technique lol, in normal mode it just wasn't interested plus if its an electric switch it shouldn't really matter how hard its pressed? unless its got some form of potentiometer in it..
|
|
|
|
fred
Posted a lot
WTF has happened to all the Vennies?
Posts: 2,957
|
|
|
In other news, the Jag gave me a mini scare when I started it for the first time after getting back from a weeks holiday, the ABS and brake warning lights came on with the engine.. a bit of brake pumping and they went off within a few metres, so I'm assuming it was just a jag electrical quirk, the brakes still work fine When I had mine The ABS and Brake warning lights came on after I replaced them! Batted about for a bit they went off, then came on, then went off, was like that till I sold her a year later darn ZX Spectrum electrics!
|
|
'79 Cossie ran Cortina - Sold
2000 Fozzer 2.0 turbo snow beast
'85 Opel Manta GSI - Sold
03 A class Mercedes
Looking for a FD Ventora - Anyone?
|
|
THE_Liam
Yorkshire and The Humber
If at first you don't succeed... HAMMERS.
Posts: 1,363
|
|
|
So much want for a Jaaaaaaaaaaag as a daily. How wallet-destroying is the fuel consumption?
|
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,865
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
|
So much want for a Jaaaaaaaaaaag as a daily. How wallet-destroying is the fuel consumption? Do it I'm getting around 18 mpg on the short stop start journey to and from work, but on the motorway at around 65mph with the cruise control on it was giving around 30mpg average. So long as you don't go hooning it round trying to get your gearbox to kickdown it should be affordable
|
|
|
|
dbdb
Part of things
Posts: 821
|
|
|
I hadn't noticed this about the ABS and brake warning light. When you say they came on with the engine, what do you mean? It is normal for the ABS light and brake warning light to stay on for up to 40 seconds after the car is first started if the car has not been driven for some time. This is because the hydraulic system needs time to pressurise if the brake pressure has subsided over time. A week on holiday is easily long enough.
If the light stays on for more than 40 seconds from starting the car, then there could be an ABS fault. If this is the case, Jaguar tell you to try to restart the car (parked, not moving!!) to see if the light comes back on. If the light comes back on - or if the light comes on whilst moving, then a fault is being indicated.
David
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 8, 2014 21:52:55 GMT by dbdb
|
|
THE_Liam
Yorkshire and The Humber
If at first you don't succeed... HAMMERS.
Posts: 1,363
|
|
|
So much want for a Jaaaaaaaaaaag as a daily. How wallet-destroying is the fuel consumption? Do it I'm getting around 18 mpg on the short stop start journey to and from work, but on the motorway at around 65mph with the cruise control on it was giving around 30mpg average. So long as you don't go hooning it round trying to get your gearbox to kickdown it should be affordable Really? That good? My 1.8 Merc gets 22mpg on stop-start driving to work, and 40mpg at 65. Guess a 3.2 would be better too... My lass is going to kill me. To eBay!
|
|
|
|
dbdb
Part of things
Posts: 821
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,865
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
|
It is normal for the ABS light and brake warning light to stay on for up to 40 seconds after the car is first started if the car has not been driven for some time. This is because the hydraulic system needs time to pressurise if the brake pressure has subsided over time. A week on holiday is easily long enough. Ah thats exactly what happened then, they went out well within 40 seconds and haven't appeared since, I suppose its me not being used to a car without a standard brake servo Aha I've been looking at that grey XJ for way too long already, I love the look of it. since his grey wheels go well with the body colour, perhaps a dark bronze would work quite well with the gold colour of mine.. Do it I'm getting around 18 mpg on the short stop start journey to and from work, but on the motorway at around 65mph with the cruise control on it was giving around 30mpg average. So long as you don't go hooning it round trying to get your gearbox to kickdown it should be affordable Really? That good? My 1.8 Merc gets 22mpg on stop-start driving to work, and 40mpg at 65. Guess a 3.2 would be better too... My lass is going to kill me. To eBay! Its a very lazy torquey engine when driving around town so I suspect that helps with the fuel economy a bit? haha ahh just take her for a drive in one and I'm sure she'd come round to the idea
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I've always used the punch technique to get kickdown on most gearboxes. You are making a signal hitting the switch, holding full throttle for seconds to get kickdown sounds wrong and probably the shock when it does change might not be great for the drivetrain. Punch once for one gear and punch again for another when you feel the box has already dropped the initial gear. Done well passengers shouldn't even feel it.... Try it Agree with this. Especially now when modern autoboxes take all sorts of inputs before deciding what you want to happen, it's often a case not what you do but how you do it that tells the box to get a move on! On my RR, it ignores steady pressure and just accelerates, but if it's punched, it kicks down happily.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Can you fit one of these & wire it to the Kickdown? No "real" practical use, but it is awesome.
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,865
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Jul 10, 2014 17:49:21 GMT
|
haha a manual 'go baby go' kickdown switch would be awesome Gearbox experiments have stopped for the time being as I'm using a bit more than my fair share of the world's petrol In other news, I have decided on a colour for the wheels, time to get the wet and dry paper out.. :/
|
|
|
|
adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,865
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
|
|
Jul 19, 2014 16:57:24 GMT
|
So I've been cracking on with getting the wheels painted, thankfully for the first wheel at least I didn't have to do any sanding of the polished lip as its in good condition which has saved me some time. Started off by flatting back the centre with 280 grit wet and dry paper, then cleaned it before applying a coat or two of etch primer, then it was on with the colour coat. For the colour, I found a touch up pen in the tool kit in the boot of the car which I presume is for part of the pinstripe which runs down the length of the car. Its a gunmetal colour so I went down to the Halfords where I used to work and they mixed some up for me, this is how it came out after a couple coats As you can just about see in the photo, the line between the lip and centre isn't very smooth I then went round with some 1200 grit paper and some rubbing compound to define the edge, not the best photo but it does look a bit sharper in the photo below Am now currently doing the clearcoat but am happy with how its come out, just got to get on with the rest of them now, unfortunately a couple have some lifting of the lacquer on the lips and one of them appears to have a bit of a dent in the lip on the back side of the wheel :/ But as I've got 5 wheels, the one with the dent can be the spare wheel
|
|
|
|
Curtis
Part of things
Posts: 622
|
|
Jul 19, 2014 18:01:03 GMT
|
Looking good man, can't wait to see these fitted on the car.
|
|
Driving: Shitbox Honda S-MX
|
|
|