New job further away from home and a broken daily do not match, so i needed a new daily.
I found this for sale and i went to take a look, it's not perfect, but i love it!
With it being an SXL it's pretty good equiped for a shopping trolly Decent seats, 5 speed gearbox, loads of extra plastic in the interior etc. etc.
It's allready lowered on loweringsprings with koni red shocks and is wearing some nice Borbet 15" wheels.
Powerhouse is nothing spectacular, but it'll get me to and from work for now, might be doing something under the bonnet in the future.
Plans are to fix the rust first, and fix the minor issues it has at the moment then look into modding. I want to build a semi decent sound installation for it, so i can listen to some music in better quality then the 27 year old original speakers
Last Edit: May 21, 2019 20:17:45 GMT by The Doctor
In the mean time, i've upgraded the brakes (227mm solid disks to 255 vented and bigger callipers):
Added a rear spoiler, because it looks nicer:
Took it out on track twice, had loads of fun:
But it was lacking power, i was on semislicks, but my mate, with the same Starlet was just as fast as i was, but he was on normal street tires. Our cars just aren't fast enough!
So to solve that, i made a plan, which consists of a frankenstein build of 2 engines.
'big' bore 1.3 16V and a short stroke 1.0 12V engine combined, giving me a 1107cc short stroke 16V engine. Capable of high revs, and delivering some power, i hope to be near 100hp in the end.
It's probably easier and quicker to swap in a 1.3 Turbo from a later Starlet or Glanza, but where's the fun in that?
So far no pictorial updates about the engine stuff, but i found out the 1.0 block differs in height from the 1.3 block, dus making the 1.3 pistons come 2mm out of the (bored out) 1.0 block, or 8mm shy off the deck on the 1.3 block. I'll go for a 2mm headgasket and use the 1.0 block as a base. Then lightening the crank and flywheel, get the cams reground and uprate the valvetrain, do some port work on the head and add 40mm Weber DCOE carbs together with a nice exhaust manifold.
I hope all this makes me an engine which will go up to 10k rpm, i know the stock 1.0 engine goes upto 7,5 - 8 allready, before the valves start to bounce
It won't be the smartest choice, the engine will probably be frugal, but i just want to see if it's possible to build a stupid engine for my daily commuter
Last Edit: Feb 14, 2015 23:46:23 GMT by The Doctor
Well... a week later and i managed some more investigation time on the new engine
on top the 1.3 crank, bottom is the 1.0 crank. 1.3 crank is better balanced with 8 weights, but way heavier then the 1.0 crank. Then i tried the 1.0 crank in the 1.3 block for comparison.
1.3 crank, block and pistons:
1.0 crank, 1.3 block and pistons:
Exactly as i suspected, the 1.3 pistons are 2mm higher then the 1.0 pistons, but due to the shorter stroke of the 1.0 crank, they sit 8mm shy of the deck now.
I thought about 2 options: - shaving 8mm of the 1.3 block - boring the 1.0 block from 70.5 to 74mm and us a 3mm MLS headgasket
I then got a tip from somebody to use longer rods, which sounds like a good solution i hadn't thought off! Now trying to find information about conrods. Stock is 118mm, so i need 126mm rods with 43mm big end bearings and 18mm small end bearings, but information is really scarce (or i don't know where to look!). Toyota hasn't got anything that fits that size. One from a Honda engine (which i forgot which one) came really close, but was just too long.
Last Edit: Feb 22, 2015 18:42:52 GMT by The Doctor