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Jul 16, 2014 13:24:33 GMT
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Been playing on my mind and wouldn't mind a nice system in it nowadays. Problem is i have not a clue where to start from just a simple cd player and a pair of 5x7 speakers or something along them lines would be a good start! Would love a sub and amp in there as well but not a necessity.
The car is very basic and i fear i would need to fuse it up anyway can someone run me through a basic set up and where to wire from. Its already negative earth
Cheers in advance
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Jul 16, 2014 13:56:05 GMT
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I did it on my mk1 cortina, basically if you unscrew the ignition switch bezel you can remove it and you'll see there are male spade terminals on the back, there should be a couple spare. Get a pair of iso connectors off ebay if they didn't come with the stereo.
Look at the wiring diagram in the stereo's manual or sometimes theres one stuck to the stereo's casing, and wire the switched live on the iso connector to the ignition switch, it's worth putting a 10A fuse inline.
Wire the earth on the connector to a suitable earthing point via a ring terminal, I used one of the scews that holds the heater on.
Some stereos require a permanent live for radio station memory, if you're not fussed about this you can also wire this to the ignition switch but otherwise wire it directly to the + terminal of the battery, with a 10A fuse inline.
I got some shelf mounted speakers to put on the parcel shelf under the dash so I didn't need to drill any holes, the speaker wiring is fairly straightforward, just wire the + to the + on the speakers and the - to the - on the speakers, from the second iso connector.
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1966 MK1 Cortina 1971 Hillman Super Imp 1985 Volvo 360 GLEi 1986 Volvo 340 1.7 1990 Mercedes 190e 2.0 1993 Peugeot 205 STDT
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Jul 16, 2014 14:38:48 GMT
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I did it on my mk1 cortina, basically if you unscrew the ignition switch bezel you can remove it and you'll see there are male spade terminals on the back, there should be a couple spare. Get a pair of iso connectors off ebay if they didn't come with the stereo. Look at the wiring diagram in the stereo's manual or sometimes theres one stuck to the stereo's casing, and wire the switched live on the iso connector to the ignition switch, it's worth putting a 10A fuse inline. Wire the earth on the connector to a suitable earthing point via a ring terminal, I used one of the scews that holds the heater on. Some stereos require a permanent live for radio station memory, if you're not fussed about this you can also wire this to the ignition switch but otherwise wire it directly to the + terminal of the battery, with a 10A fuse inline. I got some shelf mounted speakers to put on the parcel shelf under the dash so I didn't need to drill any holes, the speaker wiring is fairly straightforward, just wire the + to the + on the speakers and the - to the - on the speakers, from the second iso connector. Cool stuff yeah i did think of the ignition switch just don't want to overload it as i have electric washers wired up from there . When i am near the car again i will have a look to see how many are free! Seems pretty straight forward! Guessing i could run an amp from the battery terminal as well (fused obviously ) Thanks for your reply mate great help
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,191
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jul 16, 2014 17:11:17 GMT
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If it were me I would do the above and wire in a permanent feed. Most HUs have these and some (like my Becker) have a code which will necessitate the fitting of one unless you wish to enter the code every time you use it.
I would also wire in an ISO plug. These are available cheaply off ebay. Not only will it tidy things up behind the dash it will make it easier to switch between HUs for whatever reason there is (HU manlfunction, you cannot get along with the unit (this is entirely possible with some of the daft features some HUs come with; Alpine's GlideTouch is a good example).
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Jul 16, 2014 19:09:04 GMT
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Some stereos require a permanent live for radio station memory, if you're not fussed about this you can also wire this to the ignition switch but otherwise wire it directly to the + terminal of the battery, with a 10A fuse inline. If the permanent live feed is only used for a memory function this is MASSIVELY too much. 250mA would do. However, check with the manufacturers recommendation as some head units use this feed to power the internal amplifier as well. The gauge of the cable is a fairly good indication, thin = low current, thicker = higher current.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Jul 16, 2014 19:57:23 GMT
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My main concern is that i hope it wont overload the ignition switch , i hope it wont so need to get the wire ratings and load ratings correct ..
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Last Edit: Jul 16, 2014 20:01:11 GMT by slammage
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,191
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jul 16, 2014 23:17:09 GMT
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On most cars I have seen and HUs the permanent feed tends to be the main feed into the HU with the ignition wire acting more like a switch.
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Jul 16, 2014 23:50:40 GMT
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This is certainly the case on a high power unit as you don't want to be pulling high amplifier current through the ignition swith. However, low power or line level only units generally just have the memory back up on the permenant live feed. Hence it should always be fused as per the manufacturers specifications. Don't guess or make assumptions when it comes to any kind of electrics, it often ends badly if you do!!
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Last Edit: Jul 16, 2014 23:52:26 GMT by squonk
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Jul 17, 2014 13:31:41 GMT
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I may not be popular for saying this but a '64 corsair needs a '64 period correct radio (even none working) then a hidden install..in the glove box or wherever? Or do you have an ipod or do you want to listen to the radio?....ipod hidden installs are easy as, amp under a seat, ipod wired in with rca adaptor,then hide your choice of speakers (using boxed enclosures maybe hidden under the back seats?....or even a nice retro suitcase install sat on the back seat?
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jul 17, 2014 14:51:10 GMT
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Usually the ign feed is off the seperate POS 1 on the ign switch POS 2 is the ign live, although i'm not sure if the corsair had a seperate POS 1 ?
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R.I.P photobucket
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Bolf
Part of things
Posts: 507
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Jul 17, 2014 17:22:01 GMT
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I've done a lot of hidden installs in classics , where are you based , I'm on the Cambridgeshire/Bedfordshire border
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Jul 18, 2014 20:43:55 GMT
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Sorry to thread jack but any more information on the I pod route and hidden installs as I'm in the same boat with my mk1 tina
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Bolf
Part of things
Posts: 507
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Jul 19, 2014 16:50:30 GMT
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Basically
3.5mm jack into RCA stereo lead
Into two RCA wire splitters
then those two in turn into two RCA in line volume/attenuator knobs
Then from there into a 4 channel amp
2 channels to the front speakers/components the other two bridged into the rear / subwoofer setup.
This leaves you with two knobs , one for volume and one for bass , allowing you to tweak for your tastes.
You can use ignition through a switch to feed the remote feed on the amp , so that you can turn off the system and it also switches off when Key out.
You can buy all the above on amazon / ebay.
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2014 16:51:51 GMT by Bolf
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Jul 19, 2014 22:09:01 GMT
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Basically 3.5mm jack into RCA stereo lead Into two RCA wire splitters then those two in turn into two RCA in line volume/attenuator knobs Then from there into a 4 channel amp 2 channels to the front speakers/components the other two bridged into the rear / subwoofer setup. This leaves you with two knobs , one for volume and one for bass , allowing you to tweak for your tastes. You can use ignition through a switch to feed the remote feed on the amp , so that you can turn off the system and it also switches off when Key out. You can buy all the above on amazon / ebay. you know what, this sounds like a better idea as I really wont listen to that much 'radio' stations. suppose I could mount the amp where I was going to mount the radio (under the dash /steering wheel), or under the seat, but then again I can set it up and control from the ipod.. now on the hunt for a decent cheap 4 channel amp on ebay !!
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2014 22:15:01 GMT by slammage
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Jul 19, 2014 22:09:35 GMT
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Sorry to thread jack but any more information on the I pod route and hidden installs as I'm in the same boat with my mk1 tina no need to be sorry were all here to help each other
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Jul 21, 2014 10:50:25 GMT
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Basically 3.5mm jack into RCA stereo lead Into two RCA wire splitters then those two in turn into two RCA in line volume/attenuator knobs Then from there into a 4 channel amp 2 channels to the front speakers/components the other two bridged into the rear / subwoofer setup. This leaves you with two knobs , one for volume and one for bass , allowing you to tweak for your tastes. You can use ignition through a switch to feed the remote feed on the amp , so that you can turn off the system and it also switches off when Key out. You can buy all the above on amazon / ebay. ^^^ this^^^ is the best way......cheap way is as above but with just a 2 channel amp and control the voume via the ipod without the need for extra knobs being a simpleton that was my way of doing, amp under the passenger seat, 6x9 speakers in enclosures under the back seat
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Jul 21, 2014 11:06:18 GMT
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Some stereos require a permanent live for radio station memory, if you're not fussed about this you can also wire this to the ignition switch but otherwise wire it directly to the + terminal of the battery, with a 10A fuse inline. If the permanent live feed is only used for a memory function this is MASSIVELY too much. 250mA would do. However, check with the manufacturers recommendation as some head units use this feed to power the internal amplifier as well. The gauge of the cable is a fairly good indication, thin = low current, thicker = higher current. Not sure why I said 10A, mine has a 200ma fuse.
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1966 MK1 Cortina 1971 Hillman Super Imp 1985 Volvo 360 GLEi 1986 Volvo 340 1.7 1990 Mercedes 190e 2.0 1993 Peugeot 205 STDT
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