Crimping 'closed end' ring terminals.

[stevek]

I have been making my first bit of wiring using crimp terminals. Its the small wiring for the starter and alternator on my 924. Its three wires which I think are Ignition switch, Boost volts to the coil (for starting only) and a charge light for the dashboard.

I bought this crimp tool (Laser) on eBay and the crimps from Polevolt.



I am getting on with the 'open end' (I think that's the term) spade terminals OK...


but I have some 'closed end' (like a tube that crushes rather than tags that are folded round) ring terminal and I'm not sure they have crimped correctly...




The pressure required seemed too high for the tool, though it did do it! The deformation of the crimp looks odd to me like I have used the wrong tool or done something wrong. That said there is no way I could pull one off so its definitely on tight. Any Advise please?

-Steve-

[nomad]

Hi Steve,
I normally solder the terminals rather than crimp so I'll let somebody else advise on how yours look.

Good effort with the heatshrink for insulation but you can get covers very cheap - much better as they also protect the blade area (not just the crimped joint)
An idea here - look around for prices, sizes, etc
www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/735529/Soft-PVC-insulation-sleeve-for-spade-connector-63-mm-Soft-PVC-Transparent;jsessionid=B070F6F7CE3C0B772191D520FEA1F257.ASTPCEN32?ref=list

Hope it helps

[composimmonite]

I use a hydraulic hex crimper for tubular ring terminals like this -

[stevek]

nomad - My understanding was soldering was not ideal because solder joints are prone to fail in harsh vibration environments? Thanks for the pointer on the boots, in this circumstance they are going into a multi-connector but now I have the crimp tool I will probably be doing other jobs too.

composimmonite - I looked for the type of tool you suggested but I think they are for larger sizes. The ones pictured take 2mm² and 4mm² wires so are pretty small, the hex crimp tools seem to come in at larger sizes.

[Dez]

compo is right you should be using the hex-type crimper for uninsulated terminals. my one is basically the same as the lazer tool youve bought but with different jaws, with 3 sizes that are roughly equivalent to 'red' 'blue' and 'yellow; sized insulated terminals, so within the size range you require.

i seem to remember though when i bought all 3 of my crimpers one was much harder to find and nearly 3x more expensive even though they were all the same thing- and i think it might have been the hex one.

[composimmonite]

The dies in my hex crimper go down to small wire size - say 1mm. I agree intended usage (mine was for making battery leads for electric vehicle project) is for larger dia cable but will also do smaller. I want a hex ratchet crimper for bullet connectors but find they are £50-60 price range and difficult to source - which is as DEZ states above.
IMO cheapest option is to simply buy some different eyelet connectors or if you are like me cut a slit in the tube type with a Dremmel so the crimper you already have will reproduce the factory style.

Paul H

[mylittletony]

I think the tool required is different, the jaws are a different shape to create the correct crimp.

This kind looks more like what you need: screwfix link

if you look at the shape of the jaws compared to yours, you'll see the difference.

I borrowed a pair when I was rewiring my bike, I used a stack of tubular inline connectors to splice the junctions and this type of tool made them really easy.

On the other hand, if it's in tight then it's probably ok. You could solder them as well for a belt and braces approach?

[composimmonite]

Aug 20, 2014 8:54:38 GMT mylittletony said:

I think the tool required is different, the jaws are a different shape to create the correct crimp.

This kind looks more like what you need: screwfix link

if you look at the shape of the jaws compared to yours, you'll see the difference.

I borrowed a pair when I was rewiring my bike, I used a stack of tubular inline connectors to splice the junctions and this type of tool made them really easy.

On the other hand, if it's in tight then it's probably ok. You could solder them as well for a belt and braces approach?

Unfortunately that Screwfix tool is for insulated terminals. Still worth having as does a far better job than the cheap non ratchet types but doesn't produce the hex crimp required for a tube terminal.
I've been looking for an example of the proper tool and have come across numerous ratchet hex crimpers but they are for electronics connectors so not suitable for automotive use as different sizes. You could give one a try but might be a waste £25 so not really viable.
Making factory style crimps becomes addictive. After you start then all your previous attempts with insulated, screw blocks, etc become irritating and you can find yourself wanting to change everything back to OE spec. Move onto making multi connectors and that is very satisfying as well.
BTW I even use tube ferrules (requires yet another type of crimper !)on mains wiring now when fitting a plug

Paul h

[stevek]

I needed to keep making progress on the car so I deemed the crimps good enough to use even though they are not really done right. Last night I made this...





...which I think is a decent effort. Sure, there's room for improvement too but it looks like some new tools will be needed which I'll look into when I'm at a computer.

I'm posting on my phone tonight so ifs tricky to answer everyone in depth but thanks for all the suggestions. As compo said I can see it getting quite addictive making wiring look all nice and neat.

I was re-assembling the starter and alternator on the car tonight and it would have been great to have been able to make some new earth cables to length as needed so I may look for a tool that covers a wide range of wire size.

[composimmonite]

Looks excellent