Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
|
|
Oct 17, 2014 12:15:13 GMT
|
Awesome! Bookmarked!
As you can see, I also have a '71 Scimitar. I also love old Landrovers (used to own a '65 SWB) and just happen to live on the Wiltshire/Hampshire border and work in Wiltshire. I feel a PM coming on, if your local then we could probably help each other out.
|
|
www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2014 13:04:06 GMT
|
Sounds good to me! My parents live nr Marlborough so probably quite close to you .
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 16:24:54 GMT
|
Time for another update then. So since last time I've sorted out the watts linkage. Painted New bushes Reassembled The rear axle I thought would have been a relatively painless strip, paint, sorted has been a bit of a pain. In the last update I started fabricating some new trailing arm mounts. Well I finished them off and welded them on. I'm quite proud of them. I've left drainage holes at the bottom to hopefully stop the rust and gunge building up again. One welded on: The other side fabbed and welded on I found the breather hole (not that i was looking for it). Now the half shafts.. The outer bearing race fits in the axle housing and the inner bearing is pushed onto the half shaft. On top of the haft shaft the drive member is pressed on with a thread on the end of the shaft holding it in place. Before I made the puller I tried heating & beating, pressing, pulling everything to get them apart which meant one of the threads was a bit knackered. The other side's threads had been knackered by a previous owner so I had to try and repair them. I did a bit of measuring and figured out that it was 7/8UNF thread and got a die to suit and managed to clean the thread up. A bit of an expense I wasn't expecting but i can't imagine the job getting it back together if i'd not done it. The old bearings don't seem to bad but i'm wondering whether i should replace them anyway. It's about 25 quid a side for them. I went to the local steel supplier to get some more steel for the chassis and had to stop in a hurry on the way as my land rover had decided that having 4 wheels was over rated. It didn't actually fall off but it was wobbling about. The threads in the studs look a bit shafted up. I think i'll have to replace them at some point soon. Lastly I made a new rear bumper mount I used M12 instead of whatever was in there before just to curse word off the purists . Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Progress is progressing!
Nice job on the axle hangers. Those often get full of crud and rot out. Pulling the hubs off is a major task. The scimitarweb chaps recommend a pipe flange.
BTW some of the JB-Weld products are gasoline-resistant (which may be different from gasoline-proof), so may be worth looking into.
|
|
|
|
oakesy
Part of things
Posts: 305
|
|
|
Cracking work
|
|
'66 Scimitar Coupe Straight Six in no Paint '74 Scimitar GTE in Yellow '71 Jaguar XJ6 in Blue '76 Scimitar GTE '87 Scimitar Turbo Previous- '87 Scimitar SS1 Turbo, '75 Triumph Toledo, '86 VW Scirocco, '93 Scimitar Sabre, '85 Scimitar SS1, '76 Scimitar GTE, '71 Scimitar GTE
|
|
|
|
|
Thank you for bumping it . I've not done an awful lot lately. I've converted my compressor back to single phase and put a bigger pump unit on it. I've moved it out to the shed and ran some air lines into the garage so I don't keep tripping over it. . I have painted the axle though. Ready for it's rebuild . I bought some goodies from a chap on here so I now have: Stainless brake fittings Pair of doors and all bits Bonnet Stainless fuel tank (gave up on the others). Tow bar Spare glass Few others bits They were from a 5a but should be able to make them all work. Just need the sun back and i'd be happy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I made the tensioner for the compressor belt out of an old aux belt tensioner from.... i think a Mondeo and a brake drum spring from the Scimitar.
|
|
|
|
Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
|
|
|
I like the white diff cover, are you going to fit a corresponding convoy light too?
|
|
www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
|
|
|
|
|
Haha I do have a couple sat round. It was my father in laws idea. Apparently it was the done thing "back in the day". Shame it'll be covered by the watts linkage and rest of the car. I think the tank covers most of it?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2014 15:52:44 GMT
|
Another update. Firstly I got the axle more-or-less back together. When I took it apart, all the shims were on one side. The shims are used to set the wheel bearing preload by spacing a retaining plate away or closer to the axle casing. When I was trying to get the end float correct (~.1-.2mm, each end) I couldn't get it right. I put one side in and I had loads of play even with the bearing race recessed into the axle casing. It took a bit of head scratching to figure out that you need to have both half shafts in the axle as they use each other to set the endfloat. You can see the axle back together on the floor here along with a taste of what's next. . You'll notice i've not put the brakes in yet. I could have sworn that I had a new fitting kit and springs somewhere so chucked the old bits (and use some to make the tensioner on the compressor). Do you think I can find them now? I'll have to order another set. So as the engine was running just fine the plan was to pull the sump off and have a look in there for anything untowards, stick a steel timing gear on and just have a poke around. The essex engine is known for eating the timing gear (there was a chap on here who had a capri he bought with some money from pistonheads which suffered the same fate). They're metal but the outside where the teeth are is made of a fibre-y/plastic material which over time goes brittle as it soaks up the oil. You can get replacement ally or steel ones so i'm going to try and get hold of one of them. I started to strip some of the ancillaries off the engine, starting with the water pump. umm.. You may recall that when I got the engine going, it was curse word water out the back. I'd assumed because of the hose (nibbled on) but apparently it's because there's a gaping hole in the back. There was a new pump in the back so my suspicion is that it's overheated at some point. I wanted to dig a bit deeper. Timing case and rocker covers off. All looking ok so far. Bit gunky here and there. Here's one of the water ways between the intake manifold and one of the heads. Heads look pretty good but are going off for a skim. Bores are borderline. A hone and new rings will suffice I think. No shots of the pistons but the rings are worn so there's up and down play in the pistons. Pistons are all ok so will be reused with std rings. 2nd compression rings and oil scraper rings are all ok but i'll do the lot. Sump off and oil pump out. Here's the top plate of the oil pump. Time for a new one I think. The pump rotor/vane/whatever you want to call it. Looks like it's been chewing gravel. And the really annoying bit. The crank is scored slightly on the main bearings. So that's going to need a grind and a set of undersized bearings. One of the big ends are scored too which means.. they'll all need to be done too. Another few hundred quid down the drain. That's before I mention the cam is buggered too. So my shopping list for the engine is: Fast road cam Cam lifters Uprated springs Crank regrind Main bearings Big end bearings Piston rings Oil pump Head skim & pressure test Steam clean everything and get it spotless. Coat of paint. !!!! Any got Essex experience and can recommend a cam? Thanks for reading!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2014 15:56:32 GMT
|
Sorry I don't know why all the pictures are sideways. They're all up the right way on my phone and google drive? You'll have to turn your heads sideways.
My phone's off for repair too. 3rd time with the same fault. GREAT
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2015 10:58:57 GMT
|
Well I've got a small update of sorts. Last year I decided that I just didn't have the space to continue restoring the Scimitar. I didn't have enough room to paint parts and do other things, for example. I had been looking for months but not really got anywhere. I put an advert on the notice board at a local farmer's supply shop and got a call a few weeks later from someone offering me some space. We did a bit of tidying up. Built a bench, ran some electrics and starting moving all the stuff over. Moved the body over.. And that's all that happened for a while. I had some other jobs to do. Ofcourse moving all this over to the "cave" meant that there was room in the garage. So I filled that and bought a lathe. Whilst all this was happening my friendly neighbourhood engine wizard had the engine. The block had been dipped to get all the skank out the water passages etc. Heads skilled. New bottom end and big end bearings. Hone the bores, new rings, new oil pump, new cam, new cam followers. Lovely. I got the bits the other day and put a bit of paint on the block yesterday. ..and i did my first proper bit of fibreglassing. I've started to rebuild the sill. I'm back down there today to carry on where I left off. Wish me luck!
|
|
|
|
Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
|
|
Mar 16, 2015 22:28:38 GMT
|
Looking good! I've been popping my glass-fibre cherry recently on the black SE6A, only my job was fixing the boot hinge beam which meant lots of glassing upside down. Not recommended as a first job!
I will get over to annoy you some time.
|
|
www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
|
|
|
|
|
Ahh as you're well accomplished at the job I've got a broken boot hinge . Absolutely I've got tea on tap and a wood stove to cook bacon sarnies on .
|
|
|
|
Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 22:28:39 GMT
|
Oh no (to the boot hinge, not the bacon sarnies), has the pivot rod actually snapped off?
|
|
www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
|
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 23:39:53 GMT
|
Yep I'll turn up a new shaft and see if I can weld it in the car so I don't need to glass it
|
|
|
|
Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
|
|
Mar 19, 2015 10:35:08 GMT
|
Use a bolt. I have a spare bolt that's more than long enough. I don't know what happens if you try welding the steel whilst it is still encased in fibreglass but it may be possible to grind the glass away from the end of the bar, grind the welds from the remaining rod stub and weld the new one in. Or it could just set fire to the car...
|
|
www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
|
|