BMW E12 525 tidy up. Hi From Ayrshire Scotland

[pandemonium001]

I have been on the E21 forum for a while, and always browsed here now and then.
Here is my E12 project i am trying to get finished before the winter gets here.

Photo time line of the clean up up to date. not show finish, but on a limited time scale.

[pandemonium001]

[pandemonium001]

[pandemonium001]

[pandemonium001]

[pandemonium001]

[pandemonium001]

Before


After: still needs 2" dropped at the back to level.

[pandemonium001]

Not much left externally to do, a few scabs to treat and paint, final rub down, then base and clear the whole car,
Rear light the fix then polish the chrome and re install.
get on the road and enjoy!!!!

Future plans are M30B35 to install.
use the Holset HX40 you may see in the back ground, weld up the waste gate and go external.
LSD
polybush if i can find a kit
Install either the E38 or Evo6 front brembo's i have with bmw 346mm front discs.
remove servo and run with e12 master or use balance box so i can route the exhaust.
Already pruchased an Innovate SCG-1 and a stand-alone rpm vs MAP ecu to run 4 extra injectors.

[🇿🇼Kingludba🇬🇧]

very nice indeed. not much original metal left

[iane]

Looking good! Looks like you've done a lot of the same restoration work as me! Keep up the good work.

[pandemonium001]

Sept 15, 2014 19:29:22 GMT iane said:

Looking good! Looks like you've done a lot of the same restoration work as me! Keep up the good work.

Thanks, I have been admiring your car from afar for a while now.

Been having a major garage cleer out lately, lots of trips to the scrappy and selling stuff to other forums and ebay, so that takes longer than you think.
 Managed to fully weld up the front struts last night and replaced the front springs with 9" 500lb units, with the escort fronts 8" long, i nearly had coil bind so they will be going on the back to stiffen up a bit more.
sits an inch higher now at the front.

cleaned the loose paint of the brembos



4.7kg with pads & H/w compared to 5.9 kg for the ate cast 4 pots, which would you choose?
got 315mm discs on thier way as well, along with seal kit, pagid pads, had shims machined to center the discs on the e12 hub.
All in i should be £260 ish for the full conversion.

[pandemonium001]

Got a bit more done tonight, "
dropped the back down a bit, screwed right down, with the helper springs removed, next move when required will be shorter dampers with 8" x 2.25" springs




started on the big brake conversion, 315x30mm brembo discs on,i think the 325 discs would have been to close under the 17" with those calipers. cocked up my ring size so need to get 2 more to ensure the discs don't run with a wobble




fitted the new front valance

I am not going to seam seal the join at the moment, it may need to come off in the future for charge cooler or intercooler.

painted the calipers

not perfect but, will do, it is going to get driven.



Hardware to fit the calipers and the brackets to make out of some scrap alloy.
stickers are ordered.
started block sanding the whole car, got a good few hours in that to do, chips to fill, little scabby its to do as I go
Not long till paint goes on now.

Starting to get some floor space back now thing are being fitted.

[GT4ME]

Lovely E12 this, keep us updated.

[pandemonium001]

Tonights progress after being shouted in from the garage, lots of sanding the whole car with 600g and 800g. filling in some stone chips, but got bored of that for a while so started the brakes again.
The paint on the calipers is still a bit soft,24hrs later and even after baking in the oven at 60deg c, shhh don't tell the wife!!
i did thin with 2k xylene thinners so i could spray it, maybe i should have added a bit of hardener as well. It was supposed to be brush on and dry after 2 hrs.
but thought sod it and:

to compare

made paper template, then wood mock up, a file here and there and:


pads are 1mm in from disc.



clearance is a good 8-10mm from wheel



I could have been greedy and went for 325mm discs but.... whole setup would have been at least 2 kg heavier, so decided the smaller brembo discs and put the money saved to better pads if required in the future. plus the bigger pad area whill greatly improve the braking anyway.

[pandemonium001]

evo 6 calipers so 4 pistons each and are 40 & 46mm pistons, so that will increase the clamping force for same effot but with slightly more travel as well.

[useless inc]

Really neat work there

[pandemonium001]

Brakes 99% finished tonight.
test fit and installing remaning h/w


I spent hrs on the belt sander, tweeking and drilling


Stickers on, may not be right way round or whatever.






Bolted up and installed, fit exactly the same as the wood mok up plates so final pic would be the same just with a sticker added.

Brake Bleeding nearly finished but ran out of fluid, so will get some more then finish of and contunue with body work.

E12 now has 315x30mm discs with centering rings, cast alloy 4 pots 40 & 46mm pistons, pads are nearly dbl the origional size, braided single line, and is all total 2kg less than origional, all for £200 after selling old calipers, i got the Brembos free but required overhaul.

[pandemonium001]

How i did the brake lines:
Official: With the end of the hose cut cleanly at 90 degrees, the first fitting can be added to the line. The process of attaching a fitting begins with removing the tape then sliding the clamping collar onto the hose (ensuring the correct orientation). With the collar loosely in place and slid down the line,

Me: Tape up, snip with side cutters, thats close enough, remove tape, swear, then try and screw the outer shel over the nasty braid.

Official: the hose should again be located in the clamping block with approximately ½” (12-mm) of hose protruding. The mechanic should now flare the stainless braiding to expose the inner PTFE line (a special flaring tool is available from hose suppliers such Goodridge).

Me: stick the olive on, grab hose and hammer down on flat bit of the vice.

Official: At this point the end fitting can be pressed onto the inner line. The fitting should now be held in a vice (soft jaws are preferable) and the clamping collar brought up over the braiding, onto its threads at the fitting, and tightened. (Note: It is good practice to ensure that the line and fitting are orientated according to their placement on the motorcycle before final tightening of the clamp nut).

Me: stick end piece in vice, push on hose and tighten collar within a whisker of stripping the threads!

Official: The new fitting (complete with the coiled line) should now be loosely fitted to the vehicle and the total length ascertained. It is very important to determine this length carefully, as once the line is cut there is no going back (some mechanics start with the longest line first, if they cut this line too short, it can always be used for one of the shorter lines).

Me: Guess the length, do the other end, stick it on and, well, stuff it, thats close enough.




Me: grab hose, Flare out with fingers, like stroking a Nettle, whats the problem???

Official: The brass olive should now be placed over the inner lining, taking great care not to trap any of the stainless braids under it (between the PTFE and the olive). With the olive in place, the mechanic should carefully tap it onto the PTFE inner line ensuring a snug straight fit.