rover p6 v8 timing

[frankbullitt]

does anyone know how to set the timing on a p6 v8 auto.
had electronic ignition fitted and getting spark but when turning over its holding back so timing needs resetting.
any advize please
regards
paul

[sowen]

You need to line the crankshaft timing marks up to no.1 TDC, and align the rotor arm with no.1 ignition lead, it should run then. Personal preference would be to then adjust the timing by ear and test drives to get the best out of it, or do as the manual says and set the timing with a strobe light.

[colnerov]

Hi, sounds like it's too far advanced so you need to retard it. Undo the 9/16" bolt at the base of the distributor and turn the body the same direction as the rotor arm rotates, which is clockwise.

Colin

Edit- Sowen can type quicker than me

[frankbullitt]

Sept 18, 2014 18:29:39 GMT sowen said:

You need to line the crankshaft timing marks up to no.1 TDC, and align the rotor arm with no.1 ignition lead, it should run then. Personal preference would be to then adjust the timing by ear and test drives to get the best out of it, or do as the manual says and set the timing with a strobe light.

hi
excuse me for the following question as I'm no mechanic
how can we turn the crankshaft as don't have a starter handle like some old cars plus its an auto and the rads all fitted now so bit of a squeeze to get at it???
regards
paul

[sowen]

If you've still got the engine driven fan on the front, usually there will be enough grip on the belt to gently pull the engine round on that, easier if you pull most or all of the spark plugs out. Apart from that it's reaching in with a socket on a ratchet and turning it over on the crank pulley. The P6 has a short crank pulley compared to the fan so you may be able to do that from the top, I'm not completely familiar with the P6 V8 installation.

[frankbullitt]

Sept 18, 2014 19:03:16 GMT sowen said:

If you've still got the engine driven fan on the front, usually there will be enough grip on the belt to gently pull the engine round on that, easier if you pull most or all of the spark plugs out. Apart from that it's reaching in with a socket on a ratchet and turning it over on the crank pulley. The P6 has a short crank pulley compared to the fan so you may be able to do that from the top, I'm not completely familiar with the P6 V8 installation.

ill give it a try 2moro
many thanks for your help
regards
paul

[frankbullitt]

Sept 18, 2014 19:03:16 GMT sowen said:

If you've still got the engine driven fan on the front, usually there will be enough grip on the belt to gently pull the engine round on that, easier if you pull most or all of the spark plugs out. Apart from that it's reaching in with a socket on a ratchet and turning it over on the crank pulley. The P6 has a short crank pulley compared to the fan so you may be able to do that from the top, I'm not completely familiar with the P6 V8 installation.

just one other question
as you can see I'm no mechanic lol
whats the tdc

[sowen]

I'm no mechanic either!

Top Dead Centre, the point where no.1 piston is at the top of the compression stroke and both valves are closed. When turning it over, you will be looking for pressure coming from the spark plug hole, that will indicate the valves are closed for the compression stroke. If you don't have a manual, they are worth it for a reference guide

[frankbullitt]

Sept 18, 2014 19:22:15 GMT sowen said:

I'm no mechanic either!

Top Dead Centre, the point where no.1 piston is at the top of the compression stroke and both valves are closed. When turning it over, you will be looking for pressure coming from the spark plug hole, that will indicate the valves are closed for the compression stroke. If you don't have a manual, they are worth it for a reference guide

sound
once again many thanks for your help
who knows I might be in touch 2moro if I hit any snags
thanks again
paul

[frankbullitt]

Sept 18, 2014 18:30:48 GMT colnerov said:

Hi, sounds like it's too far advanced so you need to retard it. Undo the 9/16" bolt at the base of the distributor and turn the body the same direction as the rotor arm rotates, which is clockwise.

Colin

Edit- Sowen can type quicker than me

hi colin
still struggling with p6 timing
ive undone 9/16th bolt and turned distributer slightly clockwise
how do u know when your right??
or do you still hasve to set crankshaft marks up and close up 1st cylinder so valves shut???
cheers
paul

[baggabones]

Get yourself a manual or someone who knows what they are doing to show you timing being out can destroy an engine

[deaddave72]

i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae103/cruiser137/Ign1.jpg and i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae103/cruiser137/ign2.jpg

Firing order:
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 with 1-3-5-7 right hand bank of cylinders and 2-4-6-8 left hand bank of cylinders. Find the lead to No.1 and with a marker pen,mark the edge of the distributor inline with No.1 lead. Then remove the dist cap (just lift up rather than remove all the leads) and see where the rotor arm is in relation to that mark. You will then know how much the engine needs turning.

That will help you in the mean time.

[colnerov]

Hi, Paul. You don't need to turn the dist very far probably about 1/4" and try and start it again, this is only to get it running, you then need to time it. You can do static timing without the need for a timing light by the following method. With the ignition off turn the engine round until No1 is in the firing position, look on the front pulley there will be a number of lines scored on the edge of the pulley which will be marked '0' which is TDC (top dead centre) and the others will have numbers. Turn the pulley until 6 degree's BTDC (before top dead centre)is aligned with a metal pointer bolted to the front cover. Now remove No1 spark plug put the lead back on it and lay it on the engine to earth it. Turn the dist even further clockwise to retard it, switch on the ignition but don't turn the engine over. Now turn the dist anticlockwise slowly until you hear or see a spark at the plug, stop. Do it a number of times if you want to check you have it in the right spot. Tighten the the dist clamp, replace the spark plug and lead an fire it up!! If you get more trouble come back.

Colin

[frankbullitt]

got her up and running today
set up timing with all your help--many thanks.
first turn she started up and ticked over nice for approx. 30 secs then we turned off to check fuel lines etc.
but when we restarted her again she was a bit rattly on left bank coming from top end.
my mate seems to think its a rattly tappet which he says can be caused sometimes if its been standing a while and getting starved of oil.
is this visible???
its defo not bottom end !!!!!
next stage ive got to look out for a pair of proper p6 carbs so we can properly set the carbs up.
regards
paul

[sowen]

Congratulations on getting it running!

What carbs has it got on at the moment?

Tappets tapping is common, maybe worth letting it run as long as possible to get the temperature right up, then change the oil for some quality 20w50, hopefully that should quieten the tappets if the problem persists. I recently changed the oil on my SD1 for the first time since buying it, after 150 miles I had to change the oil again because the tappets began to rattle, seems fine now with some Millers 20w50.

[frankbullitt]

hi
bit of a mix match of carbs at mo
one sd1 and one p6
I'm currently looking for a correct pair of p6 carbs but they seem to be a scarce item.
when the engine was installed fresh oil was put in.
regards
paul