mx5 buying advice

[flat4fanatic]

Looking at finding a cheap mx5 for the father in law.
Needs to be an early one to get it on classic policy.
Anyone got any advice what to look for/ known weak spots etc?
cheers
Steve

[jonk]

Rust, rust and rust. On mark 1s around the rear arch / sills, especially, and they tend to rot from the inside out. Also make sure you know what you are getting in for with wheel/suspension combos which are obviously a matter of taste if not standard.

Everything else on them is pretty bombproof and cheap to fix. But it really is worth looking for one as rust free as possible, or buying one v.cheap and getting it repaired properly.

Head over to mx5nutz for loads of info.

[g40jon]

There are enough mx5s around (even early ones) to completely ignore anything with rust around the rear arches and rear ends of the sills. They tend to rot out the rear sills if the hood drainage holes have blocked. If kept clean there should be no reason for the sills to rot. Front edges of the wings can rust, but are cheap and easy to replace. There really isn't much to worry about on an mx5 mechanically.
They are pretty much bombproof. The gear change can be stiff (normally down to worn shift boots or old gear oil (both cheap fixes)). The clutch release bearing can rattle, but is nothing to worry about) Cambelt isn't critical, as the engines are non-interference, so even if it does snap, it doesn't cause damage. Waterpumps can leak. Cambelt has to be removed to fix this, so ideally, do both at the same time.
In std unmolested form, mx5s are truely reliable and will easilly cover 200k, providing the body doesn't rust away first! Buy on condition not mileage! Buying a rusty low miler will just open up an exxpensive can of worms.
Imports are worth looking at of you like extra toys, as they often come with higher spec interiors, limited slip diffs, nicer wheels, sportier suspension and various other goodies.
My mx5 is knocking on the door of 180k and the only major mechanical work has been a clutch, cambelt and water-pump change. I use it every day, it has never ever let me down (kiss of death!)

[wheelspinner]

I know where there is a G registered Eunos 1600 near Northampton.Its red,cills are very good,owners wants about a £1000 but may be tempted to do a deal.

Regards

Steve

[flat4fanatic]

Thanks folks, v useful info. I'm not fussed about getting the welder out, pretty much a definite with the budget anyway.
What's the availability a fit of repair panels like?
Thanks

[g40jon]

repair panels are easy to obtain, but not exactly what I would call cheap. Inner and outer arch repair panels will cost around 200-250 per side (or at least that is what I found when I looked into doing mine)

[chrissyb]

Ideally I'd check the sills with an endoscope (if your paying top dollar). Even if they LOOK ok they can rust from the inside out. Even if the hood drain holes are clear some overflow will always find a way into the sills, so sill drains need to be clear too. a bit of a design flaw with the triple skin area that traps moisture.