|
|
Feb 14, 2015 20:35:20 GMT
|
Neither fuel pump working, fuel gauge not budging on either tank, where is the fuel system supplied with power? I am thinking my issue may lie there. The fuel system power comes into the cabin by an inertia swith mounted on one of the front door pillars below the A-post. It has a plunger style breaker on it which trips with impact or sometimes over a nasty pothole. The feed from that up to the switch is a white wire, feed to the pumps is usually green and white - though I'm working from memory off my S3 car. The fuel pumps are also only activated by engine oil pressure as an anti flooding measure - there is a sender mounted near the oil filter that activates them, but not during cranking which makes it a pain in the rear if you run out of fuel as it won't draw fuel up unaided. I didn't like this and fed a fused 12V feed straight into the fuel tank switch. The switch has six wires in it. Switch - fuel guage Left tank sender - switch Right tank sender - switch Fuel pump power (white wire) Left Fuel pump Right Fuel pump You can identify the individual wire colours for definte by looking behind the fuel guage, fuel tank senders, and at each individual pump. Bear in mind the pumps themselves (both kinds; in tank and boot mounted SU) can and do seize so its worth checking them individually before suspecting the wiring. The in tank kind can also have the filters clog up and will run, but not enough to run the engine on - in that the engine drinks the float bowls dry faster than the pump can refil it. Regards, Rich
|
|
"You're about as likely to come across a fully functioning old Jag, as you are a taxicab that smells agreeable." - James May
|
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2015 11:37:30 GMT
|
A fresh fuel pump and sender and I have a Jag which runs again. Tank has a little internal rust but better than most I have seen. Flushed out as much as I could when draining the tank.
Took the cam covers off to have a sticky-beak. Everything looked good under there from what I could tell, all the tappets had about the right clearance, no visible wear anywhere aside from 2 things - some light marks near the edge of the #2 exhaust side tappet, possibly from someone tapping it to release it? Some scrapes on the cam shaft on either side of a couple of lobes. No obvious wear to lobes or tappets that I could see, The chain looked in good condition, didn't seem loose by hand. I popped the covers back on and pulled the sparkplugs, all 6 were black, possibly to do with tuning or the additional electric pump that was in the system for a while.
I replaced the plugs with new ones and popped the dizzy cap and found something interesting - it appears that the rotor button had been hitting the cap. unless it is just a very old and worn cap there was signs of metal transfer between the cap and button. No sign of play in the shaft. I will get a new cap and button shortly.
Putting it all back together the idle is now a little smoother but still have the rattle.
New dizzy cap and rotor made no difference. It turns out engine wash didn't do the carbies any favours it turns out, but a squirt with WD40 this afternoon and I had a car that would idle again after running terribly since the high pressure engine wash yesterday.
After reading how I popped the breather off and attempted a timing chain adjustment. No tools so I modified an angle grinder tool and adjusted the gear a couple of degrees until it felt like it was loading up, then re-assembled. Fired up the car and NO MORE LOUD RATTLE! Still not perfectly quiet but the concerning rattle is gone. Fresh oil and filter after removing the old sludge and I have near 50psi oil pressure at idle when cold, dropping to 30psi when warm and at low idle. Idle at about 850rpm when cold then about 750rpm when warm. After lubing the carbies I now have fairly smooth revving throughout the rev range. Will have to wait and see how low the oil pressure gets after a long run, but very happy with the results from today, looks like the old motor ma survive a little longer!
|
|
Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
|
|
Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
|
|
Feb 17, 2015 15:24:01 GMT
|
Sounding very promising, I really must make usre I get one of these at some point in my life.
|
|
www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
|
|