gruntyjnr
Part of things
Driven a retro and iv never looked back!
Posts: 31 
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Jan 17, 2015 21:12:03 GMT
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My 1989 1.3 vw polo on runs if the choke is on or if the revs are held on very high..?  I drove 150 miles one weekend in it and it was perfectly fine no issues what so ever! But once i sealed the exhaust to stop it blowing i got about 8 miles in it and it coughed and spluttered to a stop.. it would not start up again unless I left for about ten mins then it will run again but only for another mile and it with do the same again..?  The carb was stripped and cleaned right up and put back on.. No change..  Me and my dad have changed the carb to a carb with less miles on it and still the same problem.. We put power straight to the idle control plug and that still didn't do anything.. Fuel pump works, fuel is clean, air is getting to it, new spark plugs and leads..  So I am now stumped with my poorly polo on what the problem is and I'm hoping someone can help me with the issue?!? Thankyou, John  |
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Jan 17, 2015 21:19:13 GMT
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Likely to be the coil, for £25 it's worth a go.
My friends mk2 did the same thing, and was fine with a new coil.
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gruntyjnr
Part of things
Driven a retro and iv never looked back!
Posts: 31
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Jan 17, 2015 21:26:29 GMT
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Cheers, That will be the next thing to try then  |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Jan 17, 2015 21:32:03 GMT
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I'm not familiar but if it has an idle control valve the bleeds in air id be looking firmly in that direction!
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geeza
Part of things
Posts: 610
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Jan 17, 2015 22:43:23 GMT
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Air leak on the rubber plate the carb sits on. Replacing is cheap
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niwid
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,743
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Air leak on the rubber plate the carb sits on. Replacing is cheap Seconded. They always go. |
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yeah worth doing the flange , then the carb will mostl likely need setting up again as someone may have tried to compensate for the air leak
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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mattrb
Part of things
Posts: 78
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Jan 19, 2015 20:04:27 GMT
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A good tip to search for an airleak is to use an unlit plumbers blowtorch. You only need to just crack the valve open a fraction. Hold it near the air intake just to see for yourself, the revs will rise slightly. Then carefully aim the blowtorch where you think the leak is coming from. They are only around £20 and come in handy for all sorts on old cars. Warming up stubborn nuts and bolts is another good use for it.
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Jan 26, 2015 20:45:50 GMT
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A good tip to search for an airleak is to use an unlit plumbers blowtorch. You only need to just crack the valve open a fraction. Hold it near the air intake just to see for yourself, the revs will rise slightly. Then carefully aim the blowtorch where you think the leak is coming from. They are only around £20 and come in handy for all sorts on old cars. Warming up stubborn nuts and bolts is another good use for it. Spray carb cleaner, easystart or WD40 is a lot cheaper for finding airleaks. |
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unless its the Pierburg thing thats a complete PITFA! Bin it and fit a weber.
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A good tip to search for an airleak is to use an unlit plumbers blowtorch. You only need to just crack the valve open a fraction. Hold it near the air intake just to see for yourself, the revs will rise slightly. Then carefully aim the blowtorch where you think the leak is coming from. They are only around £20 and come in handy for all sorts on old cars. Warming up stubborn nuts and bolts is another good use for it. Spray carb cleaner, easystart or WD40 is a lot cheaper for finding airleaks. Or even water! |
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