whysub
Part of things
Posts: 65
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Used the car today after its been stood for three days. When I parked it up (30 miles after a refuel) it had the hesitancy and fluffing.
Started first turn of the key, and ran perfectly. So I think that when filling it it stirs up the tank and something in there must make it run nnt so great. Until i can get the fuel filter changed, I have put a bottle of meths in the tank. I won't have to use it until Wednesday when it will also need refuelling. I'll see what happens after that.
Thanks to all for suggestions-it is still one of the oddest running issues I have had in many years.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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So how is this going? Did adding the meths make any difference?
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whysub
Part of things
Posts: 65
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All running well. However, I'll know for sure this week when i have to refuel. I have purchased a fuel filter which I'll fit this week AFTER I fill the tank.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Sounds promising - let us know. Always good to know how things turn out.
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whysub
Part of things
Posts: 65
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Feb 11, 2015 20:27:49 GMT
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The hesitancy returned before i filled her up. So my mate changed the fuel filter for me (I'm currently unable to bend my knees so scrabbling about under the car is impossible for me). The fuel in the filter stank and was a funny colour-quite dark. Filter swap didn't take long, but made no difference.
We did an 80 mile drive-often it ran perfectly, other times it was fluffy and hesitant. My mate is a bit of an old Mini expert and thinks it is the leads/distrubutor cap/rotor arm causing the issues. Didn't want to remove the distributor cap until i have another in case the one on there falls to bits when i take it off (not sure what make it is). New one (Bosche), rotor arm and leads will be here on Friday. Needs a bit of a clean and tidy up under the bonnet so going to do it al (plus plugs) at the same time.
And just how do i get the bottom allen bolt on the distributor cap out? Tried to get an allen key on it but couldn't really see what i was doing. Do i have to take anything else off first?
Strangely, this isn't getting me down-I find I am liking the challenge. Parts haven't cost too much, and it seems to be making me like the car more.
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whysub
Part of things
Posts: 65
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Removed distributor cap and rotor arm. Both on their last legs. Still fluffing with the new ones on, but not as bad. Removed the HT leads and replaced spark plugs (removed ones not bad, perfectly serviceable, but changed anyway) with new ones. Inspecting the old HT leads I could feel a break on the inner core, close to the HT cap, on cylinder 6 which must have had the spark "jumping" the break some of the time, and nearly all the time at higher revs.
I think the fuel level was just simply coincidence now, but it certainly threw me. Car runs fantastically now, very smooth and very much more responsive.
Thanks for all your suggestions, and only have to swap the seized heater motor for a new one, then the car will be near perfect!
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Feb 22, 2015 10:57:27 GMT
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Good result! funny how many times a simple ignition fault can present itself as a fuel issue....caught me out more than once I generally now do a full ignition service if a fault occurs then work my way back if the issue still persists (it's never money wasted is it? )
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whysub
Part of things
Posts: 65
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Feb 22, 2015 18:56:20 GMT
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Good result! funny how many times a simple ignition fault can present itself as a fuel issue....caught me out more than once I generally now do a full ignition service if a fault occurs then work my way back if the issue still persists (it's never money wasted is it? ) You are, of course, perfectly correct in that-always felt like a fuel issue. I'd hate to think how much swapping all the ignition parts on my modern VW would cost. I think all the parts purchased and fitted to the Mercedes amounted to around £120, and all fitted within 90 minutes.
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