Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Jan 29, 2015 17:58:31 GMT
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Just a quick one;
Will clear Waxoil react if painted over Aerosol paint? The paint was applied over the top of Gravitex, with etch primer under the Gravitex. It was all prepped properly, it's nice and clean and has cured properly in a heated garage.
Thanks
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Jan 29, 2015 18:46:48 GMT
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if the paints been on a while id guess at it being okay
try a bit in a hidden area to be sure though
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Jan 29, 2015 19:02:01 GMT
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If you've gone to the effort of using a good product live gravitex, you may as well finish it off with a better product than waxoyl. Dinitrol do a good clear wax, (think it is 3125 from memory) as do Bilt Hamber - Dynax UC. Both will be fine over any paint.
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Jan 29, 2015 20:30:43 GMT
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if the paints been on a while id guess at it being okay try a bit in a hidden area to be sure though That's what I was thinking, I'll try making a sample on a bit of steel. Thanks If you've gone to the effort of using a good product live gravitex, you may as well finish it off with a better product than waxoyl. Dinitrol do a good clear wax, (think it is 3125 from memory) as do Bilt Hamber - Dynax UC. Both will be fine over any paint. Gravitex is the best underbody paint I've ever used, it's great isn't it! I'd like to try some Bilt Hamber stuff, although really I'd like something brush on as all the suspension is freshly painted and fitted up- that would be a lot of masking! Thanks
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Jan 29, 2015 20:53:50 GMT
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must admit I'm not a great fan of waxoil
tbh if youve painted it up all fresh then why not leave it , mine arches are just gloss paint , that way i can jet all the muck off and it comes up like new again rather than bits of grit stuck in the waxoil , its also easy to spot fresh scabs and dab em in quickly
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Jan 29, 2015 21:01:39 GMT
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I don't really think the aerosol will last long on its own, I planned to laquer over it but ran out of time (back at uni now).
Just thought that some clear underseal might be worthwhile, although the aerosol was decent stuff and as I said, it was sprayed on in a heated workshop with the heaters on full blast. Seems to have cured pretty well.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Jan 29, 2015 22:05:29 GMT
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I used the Dinitrol spray wax and it's good. But it doesn't last too long before it needs recoating. I've gone back to my old way of using a 50/50 waxoyl/engine oil brew. Cheap 20/50 mixed with waxoyl and applied warm seems to do just as well as expensive brands. Paint or spray it on, horrible job, but if done annually it keeps rust at bay.
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Jan 29, 2015 23:33:33 GMT
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I used the Dinitrol spray wax and it's good. But it doesn't last too long before it needs recoating. I've gone back to my old way of using a 50/50 waxoyl/engine oil brew. Cheap 20/50 mixed with waxoyl and applied warm seems to do just as well as expensive brands. Paint or spray it on, horrible job, but if done annually it keeps rust at bay. When you say it doesn't last long, does it just kinda flake off or does it get full of grit and dirt? The car won't be a daily and I want the underside looking mint, so I'm not sure about getting loads of dirt stuck to it :/ My neighbour used the engine oil and waxoyl method with his mk3 cortina that he's had from new, it's still immaculate underneath!
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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I've used various products including Dinitrol underbody wax (4941) & cavity wax (3125) - both very good.
The underbody wax is a black or brown finish.
Cavity wax is clear - but once applied it is very similar in appearance to a coating of clear Waxoyl/engine oil. It doesn't particularly attract grit and dirt, but it doesn't look mint either. It is clearly a semi-set film coating.
I had a shell waiting for welding - any rust was treated with Dinitrol Converust which forms the usual 'inert' film. Whilst it was stored in a dry workshop over the winter I sprayed part of it with cavity wax and part of it brushed with waxoyl/engine oil. A year later the bits treated with cavity wax were showing pinpricks of rust. The waxoyl/engine oil bits were rust free.
That suggests to me that the cheap Waxoyl/engine oil method is at least as effective as more expensive products at combating corrosion.
For your needs - if looks are important and the underside is aerosol coated then personally I'd give it a spray of Underbody wax so long as you're happy with it being black underneath. That would offer more protection.
If you want a clear spray on coating over the aerosol then Dinitrol cavity wax in an aerosol is easy to apply and is an excellent product. But it would need re-applying periodically depending on use.
I use Waxoyl/engine oil mixed because Waxoyl by itself isn't good at creeping into the metal. From experience if you mix the two and apply when warm it's messy job and it doesn't look particularly pretty - but it's cheap and it stops cars rotting. Again, you need to periodically re-apply it - but I tend to do mine every spring and it's a good opportunity to spot any problems before they get serious
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if its not a daily see how the paint holds up on seen surfaces , down any hidden cavitys with whatever you think is best , i tend to agree with the old engine oil mix
my polo in the sig is done with rustoleum combi mixed to match the body , its lasted fine and handles being jetwashed , i get my hand under there with a sponge and get em like new every few washes
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Iain
Part of things
Posts: 351
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I know it's a little bit late now, but you'd have been better brushing on 2 pack than using aerosol cans over the stonechip. That would be fine without any waxoyl or similar.
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still could brush it with some 2k
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Thanks for the advice on this everyone. I know it would have better to use 2k paint but the car had to be put back together on a deadline and my local place wanted nearly £100 for enough paint for yhr hnderst de which wasn't going to happen at the time. I've contacted Dinitrol and the fella there recommended Dinitrol 1000, the clear Wax that was mentioned before. I'm wondering if it would be benificial to use some of this on the paint before the Wax? pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=111365262070 It says it's proper 2k (something to do with a 2 part canister inside) and it has good reviews. I could scotchbrite the Red paint, Laquer it and then use clear Dinitrol over the top of that. Has anyone used it before? Thanks again
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Personally I'd just use the wax. It won't last forever but since the car isn't used as a daily that isn't an issue. On the basis that if you get underneath it once a year to reapply the wax it gives you good opportunity to keep an eye on things.
I'm not saying that 2k lacquer isn't any good since I've never used it. It's just that I like to get underneath periodically and I kind of feel waxy coatings are better than something which sets hard and may be prone to chipping off.
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Personally I'd just use the wax. It won't last forever but since the car isn't used as a daily that isn't an issue. On the basis that if you get underneath it once a year to reapply the wax it gives you good opportunity to keep an eye on things. I'm not saying that 2k lacquer isn't any good since I've never used it. It's just that I like to get underneath periodically and I kind of feel waxy coatings are better than something which sets hard and may be prone to chipping off. Thanks for the reply. I think you've hit the nail on the head really, I'll have no problem getting under it and detailing it so reapplying yhr wax won't be an issue. I was actually suggesting to do the 2k clear and use the wax over the top of that, but I guess it won't really make any odds when the wax is on. Thanks again.
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