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So cut my spring not a good idea mot was a nightmare... anyway can't afford to get coilovers atm and can't afford to replace springs atm...so is there a way of making the springs slightly stiffer when going over bumps bigger bump stops.  Any ideas appreciated  |
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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bouncy cut springs sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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 Honest opinion is you should have sourced a second set of springs to chop first. Extending the bump stops would be even worse in my opinion by reducing suspension travel further. Packing out the springs top and bottom in fabricated cups may be an option to secure the springs? |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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bouncy cut springs slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Its bouncy because they are stiffer. The problem is that you don't have more damping to compensate for that. That or your just confusing bounce with firmness. Its tough to have a car low and maintain a soft ride over the bumps.
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Its bouncy because when you cut the spring you are removing the lighter poundage part , leaving you with hard as hell or nothing . Thats why its a good idea to buy lowered springs matched to the appropriate matching dampers .
That way you have a harder ride but at least some give before they firm right up .
Awaits flak from the its never done me any harm , nuns and kittens etc .
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Its bouncy because when you cut the spring you are removing the lighter poundage part , leaving you with hard as hell or nothing . Thats why its a good idea to buy lowered springs matched to the appropriate matching dampers . That way you have a harder ride but at least some give before they firm right up . Awaits flak from the its never done me any harm , nuns and kittens etc . Lol got no problem with the ride quitly don't mind it being stiff (gigedy) Went over a large bump yesterday and the frame hit the floor hence the bounce... |
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Well that would mean your dampers only have a little movement before they bottom out , operating at there limit . Hence the need for matched springs and dampers .
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Well that would mean your dampers only have a little movement before they bottom out , operating at there limit . Hence the need for matched springs and dampers . Ok cheers |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,833
Club RR Member Number: 174
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bouncy cut springs stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Its bouncy because when you cut the spring you are removing the lighter poundage part , leaving you with hard as hell or nothing . Thats why its a good idea to buy lowered springs matched to the appropriate matching dampers . That way you have a harder ride but at least some give before they firm right up . Awaits flak from the its never done me any harm , nuns and kittens etc . Unless they're progressively wound thats not the case. If you cut any spring it gets stiffer. If they're oil filled shocks just drill a hole in the side near the bottom, drain all the old oil out into a measuring jug, refill it with the same quantity of thicker oil then wind a bolt into the hole. |
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THE_Liam
Yorkshire and The Humber
If at first you don't succeed... HAMMERS.
Posts: 1,363
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Not trying to be controversial but why not just get some springs made instead of messing around trying to make it drive well on butchered springs? Cutting springs is a bodge, it'll never work perfectly.
/flameaway
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,293
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Not trying to be controversial but why not just get some springs made instead of messing around trying to make it drive well on butchered springs? Cutting springs is a bodge, it'll never work perfectly. /flameaway Oh good, another sweeping statement. I've had many cars on cut springs and they drive just fine. |
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THE_Liam
Yorkshire and The Humber
If at first you don't succeed... HAMMERS.
Posts: 1,363
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Not trying to be controversial but why not just get some springs made instead of messing around trying to make it drive well on butchered springs? Cutting springs is a bodge, it'll never work perfectly. /flameaway Oh good, another sweeping statement. I've had many cars on cut springs and they drive just fine. Well the OPs car clearly doesn't? |
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Found out it was cus the bumpstop I thought I'd put back was actually sat on the workbench looking lonely  |
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Its bouncy because when you cut the spring you are removing the lighter poundage part , leaving you with hard as hell or nothing . Thats why its a good idea to buy lowered springs matched to the appropriate matching dampers . That way you have a harder ride but at least some give before they firm right up . Awaits flak from the its never done me any harm , nuns and kittens etc . Unless they're progressively wound thats not the case. If you cut any spring it gets stiffer. If they're oil filled shocks just drill a hole in the side near the bottom, drain all the old oil out into a measuring jug, refill it with the same quantity of thicker oil then wind a bolt into the hole. I didnt say they were softer , i said that you have either no give or its rock hard . As you said progressive springs , and you have just cut off the bit with any give in . Lowering springs are still progressive so you have some give [ a little ] at least , hence better ride and road holding . |
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Oh good, another sweeping statement. I've had many cars on cut springs and they drive just fine. Well the OPs car clearly doesn't? Like . |
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Not trying to be controversial but why not just get some springs made instead of messing around trying to make it drive well on butchered springs? Cutting springs is a bodge, it'll never work perfectly. /flameaway Oh good, another sweeping statement. I've had many cars on cut springs and they drive just fine. Oxymoron . |
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Unfortunately bump stops won't stop the harshness of the ride over bumps. All the do is provide a cushion between the "chassis" and suspension when at full travel to avoid metal on metal thumping. They are not part of the suspension but rather a chassis protector. In fact if you have lowered suspension you might even have to cut down bump stops to provide sufficient clearance for remaining suspension / shock travel.
Whilst the current shocks were good enough to pass the recent MOT they are probably tired unless replaced in recent years. Shocks job is to slow down the suspension movement and thus eliminate harshness / bouncing.
If you drive over speed bumps SLOWLY do you get the same problem ? If not then that is because the shocks are doing their job but can't cope with the suspension moving at a higher speed highlighting their possible need for replacement.
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Unfortunately bump stops won't stop the harshness of the ride over bumps. All the do is provide a cushion between the "chassis" and suspension when at full travel to avoid metal on metal thumping. They are not part of the suspension but rather a chassis protector. In fact if you have lowered suspension you might even have to cut down bump stops to provide sufficient clearance for remaining suspension / shock travel. Whilst the current shocks were good enough to pass the recent MOT they are probably tired unless replaced in recent years. Shocks job is to slow down the suspension movement and thus eliminate harshness / bouncing. If you drive over speed bumps SLOWLY do you get the same problem ? If not then that is because the shocks are doing their job but can't cope with the suspension moving at a higher speed highlighting their possible need for replacement. Hi after reinstalling the bump stop it no longer hits the floor going over large bumps... or small ones ..The ride is fine for me stiff but mot back shattering stiff I'm on the lookout for some coilovers when cash allows it |
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