Mar 8, 2015 7:46:23 GMT v8ian said:
I have had great success with this method, with a short heave metal bar/drift, and a big hammer give several sharp hard blows to the head of the offending bolt, fit the locking key and TIGHTEN the offending bolt, sounds counter intuitive but it does work, now try undoing the nut, many years of being an engineer this has very often undone bolts that have frustrated other people, Failing this, you have there are still options, a bit more aggressive, one is drill thru the centre of the bolt, you need to be careful here, but if you are confident, centre pop the middle of the bolt, and drill the bolt out with increasing size drills, a bit of engine oil on the drill will help immensely, might be an idea to have a "spotter" somebody who can watch and tell you if the drill is level so you don't wander off. the idea is to drill the head off, remove the wheel and allow access to the threaded section, which surprisingly should be looseish, these bolts are designed to lock on the taper seat,
Another option might be invest on one of these, I have a set of them cracking piece of kit, You might be able to find them cheaper elsewhere, I paid less than that for a set when in the US from Sears,http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Irwin-ViseGrip-Damaged-Nut-Bolt-Removal-5-16-19mm-/190329987489?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c508d21a1
This would also be my preferred method. I think you will struggle trying to drill this type of bolt, the chrome cloverleaf end is usually an extremely tough piece splined into the end of the bolt. Plenty of proper penetrating oil first. Don't think wd40 is a proper penetrating oil.