|
|
|
|
|
The facts are :
Golf mk2 3 door shell ce1 electronics. Full 16v axle and disc brake setup front and rear including master cylinder. AUQ 1.8t with 5 speed gearbox with hydraulic clutch setup. K03s turbo with a front mount and hard pipes. Shallow sump. Full Jetex stainless exhaust system with twin tip. 15x8 Compomotive th1580s. Unknown as of yet coilovers because I haven't looked, though they are mega hard so will probably rise Remapped to 225bhp, well that is the power my liquid gauge is reading from the ECU under full boost. A pretty cool feature is the liquid gauge, which is essentially an OBD2 code reader but displays everything on an lcd screen in gauge format depending on what I want to know.
Overall, its quite the go kart.
|
|
|
|
qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,409
Club RR Member Number: 52
|
|
|
Cool looking little thing. Bet it's great fun to drive.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2015 13:54:59 GMT
|
So, after a while of driving and a trip to Ultimate Dubs for the 4th time (won't go next year there isn't enough aircooled now and waaaay to many financed cars that aren't even VAG group) there are a few things that need doing. Remove all the pcv rubbish that's left over on the side of the block this includes hardlines, hockeypuck and other bits, block all the vacuum holes that uses and in it's place an oil catch can, everything has been ordered and is en-route. I also suspect that my turbo oil seal is on its way out as it smokes on idle when above 90 degrees but not under boost, ie there is no pressure on the seal at idle so it allows oil through. Not a lot but enough to allow it to smoke a little. I've got some VDO gauges coming, which include voltmeter, oil pressure and temp, these are the only three things my liquid gauge doesn't have built in. I did buy a rectangle volt meter on a digi screen but I can't take it upon myself to hack up the dash for it so that's being kept for another application. I've been sorting odd ends of wiring looms I've been finding as you do with converted by other peoples cars. Wiring isn't everyone's forte, nor is it mine so I can understand some people have a "well it runs so leave it" kind of thought, though I don't like fires, so loose and open wires HAVE to go. This was plugged in though not connected to anything. I have a question about deleting parts of the engine loom, I have between 6-10 plugs in the bay which aren't in use, should I cut them off and trace wires back and cut them at the source? To me this sounds like one hell of a big job and hard but in the end worth it as the bay will only have the wires it needs. Or cut them as far back as I can get to in the bay, cap them properly and rewrap loom. I'm also thinking about re-routing the battery into the boot just to free up space in the bay, non of that weight distribution rubbish as I won't be mounting it right in the middle of the boot.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2015 15:03:00 GMT
|
Parts ordered/bought for those who want to do something similar : For the gauges m10x1 extended t piece to help move pressure sender away from oil filter housing m10x1 male - 1/8th female adaptor for pressure sender to fit into the t piece. VDO gauges, oil temp, pressure and volts with 0-5bar sender. m10x1 VDO oil temp sender from some NL website to match gauge. 049 919 563B (http://www.celtemp-services.nl/temperatuursensorkorte-sensor049-919-563-049919563b-p-706.html). This is entirely dependant on what your gauge reads, mine is 60-170 so this is the required sensor. suffix A part has been reported to not work properly. Gauge face plate for mounting where the radio is, as I'm going to be moving the radio to where the coin tray is. For the PCV/sai etc delete Oil catch can Forge motorsport blanking plate vacuum blocking nipples in different sizes assorted hose clamps 1x 3/4" pvc pipe t joint (plastic) 2x 3/4" 90* pvc elbow (plastic) My car already runs without these items plugged into wiring loom as resistors have been wired in, you can go down this route or you can buy a delete plug kit from here or something similar from closer to home. It could throw the ECU into limp mode if not fitted. www.urotuning.com/SAI-EVAP-Delete-Resistor-Kit-3-pcs-Mk4-1-8T-p/sai_resistor_mk4_kit.htmlengths of oil and vac hose 3/4" 2m 1/2" 1m 5/32" 1m
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 16:25:57 GMT
|
I made a start on the wires no longer needed after finding that plug the other day, step 1 remove switches, lower dash trays and facia and check what you've got. Dash switches, all wired in properly using factory loom and plugs. Large plug with no chops so all is good so far... Doh! Radio wires to be expected on a near 30 year old "boy racer hatchback" All these wires in my fingers were loose which led back to the OBD2 port. Haven't a clue what they genuinly do, though I suspect they used to be for the immobiliser, through to the ECU. I took the loose wires and points out of the plug so there is now no way these can short, they weren't wired in and the car still runs fine without them. Found this black plug which had these two wires from it, they were taped to the cars original loom though not attatched to anything at either end, so out they came. Now onto the radio wires. God I love bodges. Now I must confess to using chop blocks in the past, but properly, I've never understood leaving them like this... I thought the idea was to use the crimping screw on the rubber around the wire to hold it in, not the wire itself which will break and fall out. So due to not having my soldering gear or any electricity in my carpark (I live on the second floor in a block of flats, extention cables don't usually stretch the 150m to the car) I decided make the best of what I had. Chopping and removing excess wires and putting it all back together neatly. Before... don't know why people "need" this much copper to make a connection. After... about 3mm Crimped properly, no loose wires on show. When the gauges come I'll be rerouting these wires down south in the dash so they are fine for now. The chop block in the background is for the 4th speaker, the large one only accommodates for 3 speakers. Everything I removed today... Traced the ECU, mounted decently and solidly, with good wiring. Looked at the fusebox and all wires in the vicinity, nothing to worry about here, you can see the white plug where the wires came from the other day Removed traces of a boom box. Back to normal, everything still works properly, just less to worry about going on in the background. All in all, interior wiring I'm reasonably satisfied with.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 17:16:03 GMT
|
oo, I forgot to post the reading of the re-map. Here you go
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 17:45:22 GMT
|
Nice tidy up.
But I'm afraid you've use the connector blocks completely wrong.
The screw locks down on to the copper cable. The rubber should be cut back to just before the brass inner block.
Obviously they should be shouldered and heat shrunk.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 17:59:46 GMT
|
Nice tidy up. But I'm afraid you've use the connector blocks completely wrong. The screw locks down on to the copper cable. The rubber should be cut back to just before the brass inner block. Obviously they should be shouldered and heat shrunk. Doesn't matter too much, as the wire left exposed inside touches the other wire and also the brass housing inside, I just prefer to do it this way, connection is still just as good.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 18:17:46 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 18:41:11 GMT
|
Spot on, thats exactly what I am after! I've ordered a couple.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 18:42:29 GMT
|
The connection is not just as good believe me. Any thing actually drawing some amps will arc that out. But it's your car. ?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 18:47:38 GMT
|
Spot on, thats exactly what I am after! I've ordered a couple. No worries, loads of them on ebay, just about any amount of pins as well.
|
|
|
|
VWPowered
Europe
No-Rice - Est 2002
Posts: 1,450
|
|
Mar 26, 2015 21:10:52 GMT
|
nice colour golf that, my old 16v was that colour
|
|
81 Bedford CF 2.3D Cavalier Coachman Stratus 86 Volkswagen Polo Mk2 1.6 8v 87 Austin Montego 1.6HL 'Daily' 91 Rover Montego 2.0TD Countryman Estate 93 Rover Montego 2.0LXi Estate
|
|
|
|
|
Long overdue update : Tidying continues. Gauges popped in and working. Though the bulbs shine orange/yellow rather than green like everything else (edit made picture bigger) The last of the Recirc removed. This is the blank I used to close the hole that lot came off. These are going on soon. All belts and tensioners replaced, waterpump done too, bought a new expansion bottle too to make it look a bit better, then it will just be a good clean down to make it look presentable-ish. I also replaced the blue silicone hose with a black one with a new clip so it doesn't stand out. Gave it a wash.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oh and I also removed the last of the blue trim from the interior and replaced it with black to match everything else.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nice looking golf bet it goes well too. Are they compomotive wheels or lookalikes?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nice looking golf bet it goes well too. Are they compomotive wheels or lookalikes? Genuine =)
|
|
|
|
|
VWPowered
Europe
No-Rice - Est 2002
Posts: 1,450
|
|
|
looking tidy that
|
|
81 Bedford CF 2.3D Cavalier Coachman Stratus 86 Volkswagen Polo Mk2 1.6 8v 87 Austin Montego 1.6HL 'Daily' 91 Rover Montego 2.0TD Countryman Estate 93 Rover Montego 2.0LXi Estate
|
|
|