Anglevan
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Mar 15, 2015 22:22:01 GMT
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Hi All, After assistance - I have a Ford Anglia that i've fit a CA18ET into. I've got the Anglia running but based on the original full Silvia loom. I've searched all the usual sites and managed to find some wiring diagrams (Datman / SS1 Scimiter etc) On this site I found someone who fit one into an Escort and said only 3 wires required to wire up but doesn't go into any more details.
I'm not great with wiring diagrams - I tend to lose patience rapidly. I called a local auto electrician however he wasnt interested.
So does anyone know a step by step guide to help me. I've taken next week off to try and finish it so any help really appreciated..
Thanks
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2015 20:06:13 GMT by Anglevan
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benjy_b
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 409
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Mar 15, 2015 23:29:28 GMT
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Have you got any of the wiring diagrams for the engine?
If so, I'd be happy to have a look for you.
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2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT 1999 BMW E36 318i Touring with OM605 Mercedes Engine 1996 Lada Riva with Honda S2000 Engine
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mospin
Part of things
Posts: 397
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if it helps if the looms are simular on the ca turbo and ca18et
on the ca turbo yellow and black wire is fuel pump
blue is temp sensor
thats on the ecu plug off the ca turbo I have all the wiring diagrams somewhere if it helps
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
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Mar 17, 2015 21:28:14 GMT
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I can point you to an SS1 wiring diagram if you want - you certainly need more than 3 wires!!!
Where are you? I have an SS1 turbo, one or two spare engines and most of a spare loom if you want a look?
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Anglevan
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I'm in Yorkshire, I have the wiring diagrams from datmans site and also from the ss1 I'm just going to go for it today and do what I can as I can't find any info on't net. wish me luck, I'll need it.
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benjy_b
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 409
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Mar 19, 2015 16:55:12 GMT
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Hi, I've studied the diagrams on the Datman website and summarised them for you. Summary:4 Constant Live Fuses 1 Ignition Live Fuse 1 EFI Relay 4 Injectors 1 Ignition Coil 1 Power Transistor 1 Crank Angle Sensor 1 FICD Solenoid Valve 1 Air Flow Meter 1 Throttle Valve Switch 1 Knock Sensor 1 Water Temp Sensor 1 Air Regulator ECU Connections(Contact Number - Description - Wire Colour) 27 - EFI Relay Input - LG/B 35 - EFI Relay Input - LG/B 30 - Air Flow Meter - W 31 - Air Flow Meter - G 26 - Air Flow Meter - B 23 - Water Temp Sensor - Y/G 9 - Starter Signal - B/Y 16 - Air Regulator - L/R 114 - ECU Constant Live - B/W 101 - INJ1 - W 104 - INJ2 - W/R 105 - INJ3 - W/L 102 - INJ4 - Y 22 - FICD Solenoid - OR/L 29 - FICD Solenoid - ? 2 - FICD Solenoid - ? 5 - Power Transistor - L/W 3 - Tacho Input - LG 108 - Fuel Pump Negative - B 17 - Crank Angle Sensor - W 8 - Crank Angle Sensor - R 18 - Throttle Valve Sensor - G/Y 25 - Throttle Valve Sensor - G/R 21 - Knock Sensor - W 36 - GRND - B 112 - GRND - B 109 - GRND - B 113 - GRND - B 107 - GRND - B 28 - GRND - B 19 - Check Connection - ? 11 - Check Connection - BR Chassis Harness Connections(Main Harness Side Wire Colour - Contact Number - Description - E.C.C.S Side Wire Colour) Y/R - 20 - A/T Unit - Y/R R/L - 148 - Air Regulator Power - B/R B/W - 40 - Crank Angle Sensor Power - B/W ? - 22 - FICD Solenoid - OR/L L/W - 5 - Power Transistor - L/W LG - 3 - Tacho Input - LG B/W - 114 - ECU Constant Live - B/W B - 108 - Fuel Pump Negative - B LG/B - 27 - EFI Relay Power Output - LG/B B/Y - 9 - Starter Signal - B/Y Have you got any pictures of what you are working with?Where about in Yorkshire are you?
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Last Edit: Mar 19, 2015 16:57:23 GMT by benjy_b
2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT 1999 BMW E36 318i Touring with OM605 Mercedes Engine 1996 Lada Riva with Honda S2000 Engine
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Anglevan
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Mar 19, 2015 20:36:56 GMT
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Wow you're a superstar. Thanks. I'm in ossett near Wakefield but the car is at selby.
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benjy_b
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 409
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Mar 19, 2015 20:47:46 GMT
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It should be pretty straight forward to wire it up.
There are a couple of different methods and it really depends on what is currently in the car.
I would be inclined to make a designated "power distribution panel" to control the engine. Consisting of an Ignition Relay, Starter Relay and Fuel Pump Relay and then fuse all the appropriate components.
Should you need a hand at any point, I'd be happy to drive over one evening or weekend and have a look.
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2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT 1999 BMW E36 318i Touring with OM605 Mercedes Engine 1996 Lada Riva with Honda S2000 Engine
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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Mar 19, 2015 21:58:56 GMT
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You show fuel pump neg in ECU connections AND chassis harness (it comes from ECU) but no fuEl pump pos?
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Last Edit: Mar 19, 2015 21:59:33 GMT by scimjim
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benjy_b
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 409
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Mar 19, 2015 22:20:28 GMT
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You show fuel pump neg in ECU connections AND chassis harness (it comes from ECU) but no fuEl pump pos? From what I gather on the wiring diagrams, the fuel pump is negatively switched from the ECU (the wire comes from the fuel pump through the chassis harness into the E.C.C.S harness to ECU pin 108). Therefore, when the ignition is turned on, the ECU will prime the fuel pump and then switch it off. Once the engine is running, the ECU will switch the fuel pump back on. It does seem strange that there isn't a relay controlling the fuel pump though. The fuel pump 12v feed comes from a 10amp fuse in the fusebox into the chassis harness, it doesn't need to go anywhere near the ECU.
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2005 Subaru Forester 2.5XT 1999 BMW E36 318i Touring with OM605 Mercedes Engine 1996 Lada Riva with Honda S2000 Engine
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scimjim
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I think that's what I said (it's certainly what I meant but you didn't mention the fuel pumpbpositive supply in your first post. The ECU regularly fails in the scimitar across the fuel pump circuit (due to not being relayed) - simple fix to run a permanent earth.
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Anglevan
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Apr 24, 2015 15:38:07 GMT
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A quick update guys - many thanks firstly for the above info which I shared with the auto electrician. I also printed off a wiring diagram that ended up being 4ft by 2ft so it was nice and clear for him. Anyways it's all running now and on the key which leads to my next question. The Anglia is the basic 105e version so no temp gauge (not even an oil pressure light in the dash binacle)
SO I was planning to fit 2 extra gauges (water & oil I'm not a gauge nutter) and like things simple however this is where I have come unstuck. I'm really struggling to find out what gauge / sender I need (that will fit)
Just got back from a supposed specialist but not able to assist and i've just spent hours on net trying to find any info with no joy.
SO the question how do I wire this up so that I either have an oil pressure gauge (or a light) and same for water. I'm told the senders in the engine will not match with any gauges (other than the factory nissan) and I need new gauges with new senders but where the eck to get them from
This is so close to MOT now any help greatly appreciated. Cheers
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
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Apr 25, 2015 12:26:11 GMT
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there are two temp senders on the engine - one for ECU (yellow plug IIRC by stat) and one for gauge (single spade below stat housing). The Scimitar uses a standard gauge set from a Montego and the temp feed just has a resistor inline (and VS supply).
oil pressure is just a low pressure light as standard (earth path resistance like water/fuel gauges but no VS) but you can fit just about any sender/gauge combo that will screw into the block that you fancy.
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2015 12:26:35 GMT by scimjim
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Anglevan
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Well guys, a bit of an update. My anglia is now running and mot'd. Had an issue with the turbo which meant a rebuild and now seams ok. So next question, I had an issue with cooling but putting in a variable stat for the fan/ new polo rad seams to have fixed that. Any ideas what optimum temp I should have the fan kick in at (set at 80 degrees at mo)
So next stages after its been run in. Any tips suggestions on mild improvements (I've no real room for an intercooler without some body mods which I don't want to do)
And
I'm running the standard ecu and fuel pump sender. Anyone have a diagram or know what each wire does on top of the pump. My fuel gauge needs calibration and I need to intercept the sender wire with a box of tricks I've bought.
Any help greatly appreciated
Thanks
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
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should run nearer 90 deg with the fan kicking in around 94/95? We had some cams made up by autosprint which were great value - after that, the best bang for buck improvement is an intercooler and uprated turbo unfortunately.
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Anglevan
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Ok ill try and adjust the fan for a higher temp. Thanks. The turbo is uprated with bearings, work carried out by turbo technics. Only place for an intercooler is where the heater used to be on the anglia. I don't want to chop the front panel up as I want to keep the original look.
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scimjim
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any room for a charge cooler?
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2015 21:43:00 GMT by scimjim
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Anglevan
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Sorry for late reply, been away with work - yes there would be room for a charge cooler / in fact thinking about it there would be room for an intercooler however it would have to fit where the heater would fit on the bulkhead. It's just if enough air flow.. I've also finally managed to take a picture of the sender / fuel pump. Anyone know which wires are the sender unit?
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