Thank you. The plating shop still has every nut and bolt I need to reassemble, so I'm just going through my various check lists and ordering the rest of what I think it's going to take to get back on the road.
I sell Alfa parts for a living, so imagine my surprise when I met a new customer with a beautiful guards red 951. He drove it over to pick up some parts and I was absolutely floored by how good it looked on 18" turbo twists. What a fantastic looking machine. If mine ends up half as nice I will be pleased.
Pictures of course, even though they are boring ones.
Tial F38 to be used in conjunction with an electronic boost solenoid, and a freshly rebuilt water pump. Water pumps aren't usually exciting but this one saved me $300 over buying a new OEM replacement!
If the plater comes through for me I am hoping to get more of the engine assembled this weekend.
Thank you! On that note, I'm afraid that maybe I'm taking things a little too far now. I had a suspicion that maybe the cylinders weren't quite square since two of them had just a slight lip at the top. The odd thing is the lip is more pronounced on the left side of the block. It's covered nearly 200,000 miles after all so I didn't expect it to be perfect. After some disassembly and more measuring I decided to strip the entire block down again and have iron sleeves installed. It's not the cheap way but I think it's the right way.
I loaded it up in the back of the 540i for another trip to the machine shop last night. Hope to have it done in a couple of weeks.
Four beautiful chunks of ductile iron arrived today. Now the big work on the block can begin. If my machine shop works on the same schedule as last time I might have the finished product by Christmas. Here's hoping that they are able to stick to their estimate of "two weeks" a little bit better this time.
Thanks! Picked up the block from the machine shop yesterday and I am thrilled with the work they have done. It's a thing of beauty. Best part is it looks like I will be able to reuse the ring set that I gapped for the worn bores. My wallet hurts but now there's no question that this engine will be solid top to bottom.
Christ, I do not appreciate your bill for the liners! Years ago I was quoted quite a large amount when one of my bores was scrap!
As for your power figures I think you should get there with ease. My 951 with a basic tune (read chips, Bailey DV30), Lindsey Racing Stage 1 intercooler and a Wortec exhaust made 245wBHP and 290BHP at the flywheel. I reckon it would have broken the 300 mark with a touch more boost and a decent wastegate like yours
It wasn't cheap but it was the right way to go. Finding clean blocks is getting harder and finding machine shops who can bore and hone alusil properly isn't easy either. The other option was nikasil plating but that would have been even more expensive since the pistons I sourced would have been too small after cutting the bores to the next size.
Those are nice power numbers. How much boost were you running? Do you feel like the Lindsey stage 1 intercooler was a good buy? Did it improve spool up / response? That's what I'm most worried about with the larger cold side of the K27/6 hybrid.
Thanks guys. For motivation here's a picture of the car in its current state. The left side of the rear bumper had been pushed in at some point causing the shock to collapse. I was able to pull the bumper out but the shock is toast and the plastic filler piece has a permanent kink in it. Haven't been able to find a replacement that matches the car. Apparently velvet red is a rare color choice.
The original wheels are all nice and round but the chrome has had it. The fronts have been etched by brake dust and all four have started to peel in spots. Any idea how chrome is removed from wheels? All of the powder coaters in the area are telling me that they "frost" the chrome with sand or glass bead and then powder coat right over it. A simple gloss silver would look great on these wheels.
Progress has been slow but that is about to change. A good friend has generously offered me an unused corner of his barn so I'll be moving the car as soon as possible.
He's a little bit of a gearhead too.
Should be fun. He's got some projects that need finishing so I'll help to make things equitable.
More parts have arrived for the engine and some (re)assembly has taken place. Again, gluing the girdle on is the most tedious part of the job. I sure hope it's done right. The shop cleaned everything beautifully so I'm fairly confident it's a good seal.
Once the studs are in the rest should be a breeze. Everything else is ready except for the oil pan. Still haven't had the trap door baffle welded in.
Rented a trailer and moved the Porsche to the barn.
No damage to report. Everything actually worked out better than expected. The 951 is still a heavy little thing without an engine in it, but with all four wheels on dollies we were (just) able to snake it between the posts and back into its corner.
Engine should be together soon. Still debating between sending the original M030 Konis in to be rebuilt or getting something more adjustable from Ground Control or KW. As far as I can tell almost all of the suspension bushings will need attention. The fuel and brake lines appear to be original. Might be wise to go through the calipers while it's apart. It'll be a busy winter.
Today I worked on getting the head stud holes cleaned out so that I could set the final height of the studs. The original studs were loctited in place and the remnants of said loctite have to be cleaned out to allow the ARP studs to thread in all the way by hand. Before cleaning the threads each stud stopped at a different depth when turning them in by hand. The generally accepted height is 73mm from the block to the end of the stud.
I cut a deep groove in one of the original studs, ran a die over it and then cleaned it on a wire wheel to ensure that it wouldn't damage any threads.
Lots of old loctitle came out of each hole despite the block being cleaned at the machine shop before the sleeves were installed.
After two rounds of running it to the bottom of each hole and cleaning with carb cleaner the new studs thread all the way in by hand.
They all bottom out at 72mm now. Perfect. The 73mm spec gives a little safety margin to keep the studs from damaging the block when everything heats up.
The uber reliable UZJ120 (until now) broke. An ugly grinding noise and a distinct lack of power steering clued me in.
The nut was stuck on the end of the shaft which allowed the pulley to wobble back and forth on its splines. I suspect that someone replaced this pump before and cross-threaded the nut when it was reinstalled. Who knows how long this had been going on, but it might explain the occasional harshness at idle that made me wonder why everybody raves about how smooth the 2UZ-FE is. Removing the nut turned out to be the worst part of the whole job. The pump and pulley are scrap now and the car is down until replacements arrive. Anyway, what I took away from this is that serpentine belt drives are great but they are all or nothing. This made me miss the days when I could have just removed the power steering belt and driven it until the replacement pump comes in.
Since the Lexus is down I pulled the 540i out of storage. Great car, much sportier than the Lexus, forgot how much I enjoy it. Then one of the ridiculously expensive Xenon headlight bulbs stopped working. Of course any replacement available in town is roughly twice as expensive as what you pay online. $155 each from the dealer or $110 for a pair on the interweb. No driving at night until the new bulbs show up.
I did get the steering rack out of the Porsche and cleaned the gunk off of it in preparation for some new boots. The front control arms and subframe are out for a similar refresh. More progress this week if any of my other vehicles will cooperate.
The Lexus is running better than ever. The misaligned belt and the damaged pump must have been sucking some power. It idles much smoother now too... you can barely feel it.
A local welding shop was able to repair the cracked crossover pipe. I don't know if this will prevent it from cracking again in the future but it looks decent for now.
Scored a great deal on some new Zimmerman rear rotors. Still need to source fronts.
Had to buy a single use tool for aligning the oil filter / cooler housing during installation.
And because I have a long running obsession with the 928 but have never found "the right one", a decent copy of this gem at a fraction of what they usually sell for. Unless an extremely good deal on a 70 series Land Cruiser pops up a 928 will be my next masochistic endeavor.
heres a thought. the bottom of the stud is obviously squared, bottom of the stud hole in the block is V shaped or shallow bowl from being drilled originally, and then thread cut. its possible that the stud hole isnt threaded all the way to the bottom. therefore the stud could cross thread right at full depth and put weird side loads on the stud when its tightened?
i've seen (i think cosworth) studs be pointed at the end to avoid the thread bottoming out, also ball bearings used down the hole first. none of these were on a porsche engine mind you but jsut putting it out there, on such a clinical build as this.