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Apr 20, 2015 23:12:31 GMT
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I have ordered and will soon be replacing the condenser and receiver on the P38. Now doing all of the reading, including the workshop manual, I know I need to replace the O-rings on the unions. What I can't find out is what size I need, so my questions are:
Are they of standard sizes for hot and cold sides, or are they manufacturer specific? In either event, anyone know the sizes I'll need?
Thanks in advance.
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May 17, 2015 18:14:13 GMT
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Hi George
Sorry no size info for you...but you can get green o rings in multi pack boxes from various places.....but you already knew that:(
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I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
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May 17, 2015 22:52:32 GMT
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Hi George Sorry no size info for you...but you can get green o rings in multi pack boxes from various places.....but you already knew that:( Thanks and yes I did. Just not here! |
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Last Edit: May 17, 2015 22:54:01 GMT by georgeb
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I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
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May 19, 2015 19:13:27 GMT
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Not so much hot and cold as high and low pressure (high meaning 300-500psi potentially) so depressurise it via the schrader valves before undoing any unions in case there is any residual pressure remaining.
A set of manifold gauges and a vac pump will let you prove the system is gas tight before paying for a re-gas (sometimes the evaporator in the dash can fail for example or the hardlines / rubber lines can become holed)
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Cheers for that Geoff, what it does do is give me the sizes I need. Why didn't I think of that? Armed with this I can troll around the local air-con places and buy them here. I hope! Thanks for the offer as intermediary, Amazon won't deliver here but, as said, will try to now source locally. Not so much hot and cold as high and low pressure (high meaning 300-500psi potentially) so depressurise it via the schrader valves before undoing any unions in case there is any residual pressure remaining. A set of manifold gauges and a vac pump will let you prove the system is gas tight before paying for a re-gas (sometimes the evaporator in the dash can fail for example or the hardlines / rubber lines can become holed) Thanks for the correction/clarification. The system is already empty due to the gas making a bid for freedom somewhere. I've checked all the hard and soft lines and they look okay. The dryer looks to have been there for 20 years and is a bit scabby, so is getting done anyway and the only oil trace I can see is on the cross member under the condenser. So that'll get replaced as well. I'm hoping against hope that the evaporator is okay if only to save tearing the dash down, as all the plastic is pretty brittle already and unlikely to come apart without some damage. If it comes to that, well... As to testing, it's way, way cheaper to let them test rather than buy gauges or pumps. The test, at a guess, will cost around a pound. A re-gas is about a tenner. |
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