Reveneering wooden dashboard

[sonus]

My TVR Vixen has a cut down Jaguar 420G dashboard. Unfortunatly it is a bit shonky and has a few more holes than needed and some of the veneer is chipped.

If the dash had been completly flat there wouldn't be problem reveneering, but the dials are sunk into the surface and the opening for the switchpanel has a nice radius to it.



Does anyone know how to reveneer this?

[SamR380]

I can't offer any advice on veneering but have you considered hydro-dipping? (I think there's a few names for it)

I'd imagine it'd be a lot cheaper although I think the quality of the printed material can vary a lot.

[sonus]

I don't think anyone does hydro-dipping in Norway. In addition I'd liketo keep it all wood

[colnerov]

Hi, it's not that difficult it just takes care and patience. One of the magazines (PC I think) did an article on it and there are 'how to,s' through Google. If you look carefully at yours you will find that the veneer whilst curved on the inner edges of the outers is not curved in around the gauges or switch panel. In those areas the base dashboard is radiused and dressed it is then painted/coloured and finally varnished.

Colin

[sonus]

Jul 5, 2015 16:34:56 GMT colnerov said:

Hi, it's not that difficult it just takes care and patience. One of the magazines (PC I think) did an article on it and there are 'how to,s' through Google. If you look carefully at yours you will find that the veneer whilst curved on the inner edges of the outers is not curved in around the gauges or switch panel. In those areas the base dashboard is radiused and dressed it is then painted/coloured and finally varnished.

Colin

Thanks
I'll put on my glasses next time I look at the dash me thinks

[Rebuilda]

I found this site really informative and easy to understand however it did persuade me out of trying to do my kit car dash myself and getting a pro to apply the veneer.

[sonus]

Jul 5, 2015 23:40:43 GMT Rebuilda said:

I found this site really informative and easy to understand however it did persuade me out of trying to do my kit car dash myself and getting a pro to apply the veneer.

Thanks, will have a read to see if I might get some help

[luke888]

The veneer is pressed on when done professionally with a bagpress. Like one of them big bags you attach the hover too and pull out all the air.
The other way to do it is contact adhesive.
Either way you have to put cuts in the veneer around the radius So that it doesn't crack and instead you get a few neat joins inside the hole.

[V-Force]

I work in the woodshop at Bentley so I guess I'm in a position to answer this one

Are you mirror matching the veneer? If so, you'll need to buy a small batch from the same tree. Then align the leaves and create a straight edge to match them. Anyway, onto the actual sticking the veneer to the wood:

We use Tesa tape to stop the veneer cracking as it gets bent onto the substrates

Around the inside of any apertures you'll need to make some relief cuts. Depending on the depth of the apertures you may or may not need to apply wood filler. (you'll probably need a small amount at least. This is applied after pressing and sanding)

Use the glue of your choice, we use one that activates from heat.

The veneer (with Tesa tape on the side facing away from the substrate) is then taped in position around the substrate

And it goes onto a membrane press (I can't remember temperatures and pressures, its a couple of years since I worked on that section)

Once it comes off, the glue is set, excess is trimmed off, and the veneer is sanded in preperation for lacquer.

It's late and I'm tired so it's a bit of a curse word reply, if you need any more detail just ask!