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Jul 23, 2015 12:57:19 GMT
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Okay so I had a thread for my non-working cigarette lighter and people gave me some great step by step instructions. In the end another suggestion in the thread sorted out a short term fix for my electrical issue (or lack there of), but I'll be going back and sorting the cigarette lighter at some point.
I do however have a slightly bigger issue. My car is rough as a badger when it runs, lumpy, flat spot around 3,000 rpm, just generally more gutless than I would have expected.
What shall I look at and in what order? I'm thinking Injectors and sparky bits would be a good starting point, or should I be doing sensor tests?
I've got ECU talk up and running so I could record a video of what it does when revving, so people can see what and where the problems may be.
I am your puppet to control, hit me with your best shots...
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Could the electrical issues be related? Poor engine / ECU / coil pack earths can cause these symptoms if it's not the general tune of the engine itself.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Assuming it's running the same from a cold start as well as when hot - first things I'd look at are the fuel delivery and the electrics. Don't these come with either HT leads or coilpack depending on installation? Either way, plugs, leads/coilpack, and as said - earths, check the battery/alternator as well, low voltage on a car that's been stood can play havoc with the management system.
What kind of diagnostics have you got re. checking sensors or monitoring live data?
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I've git ECUTalk.
So I've got to check all the wiring basically?
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Jul 24, 2015 10:27:35 GMT
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Sr20s eat knock sensors, my de did and they are loadsa money. They put it into a highly retarded ignition state. Mine was just flat but dets might be worse. Everyone just puts a 1k ohm resistor in its place. There are tests on webpages you can check for with a multimeter. Its located under the inlet manifold.
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Jul 24, 2015 11:20:04 GMT
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The whole thing is running too rich, rather than too retarded I think
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Jul 24, 2015 12:13:25 GMT
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Have you checked for air leaks? Spray some easy start or other very highly flammable aerosol over the intake system with the car idling. If the speed picks up then you found your leak. Careful not spray open air filters (gives a false eureka) and exhaust stuff (boom!).
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Jul 24, 2015 12:34:33 GMT
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try disconnecting the temp gauge sender it ll put the ecu in default temp setting .Sounds like the running rich issue may be down to thinking the cars running cold thus cold start (choke) is kicking in when warm something to try anyhoo!! .Looking at your other post have you overheated the motor ? got hotter than normal ? could have buggerd up the temp sencor had this before andy
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Last Edit: Jul 24, 2015 12:37:27 GMT by mgbgt stop
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Jul 24, 2015 12:47:32 GMT
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That's why I mentioned how it runs cold as well as when hot. The temp sensor should only affect it when it's hot.
When you say it's running too rich - if it's just the mix that is out (eg a dud O2 reading) - then try flooring the throttle, A) it'll take the O2 system out of the loop & B) it ought to burn a rich mix on full throttle.
If it won't take full throttle then I'd steer towards weak sparks.
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tenman
Part of things
m00000000000
Posts: 899
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Jul 24, 2015 15:53:47 GMT
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I'd be thinking an air leak somewhere in the intake system, all intercooler pipes solid? if its got the EGR gubbins that exit from the back of the manifold on early SR20DET RWD applications have you got rid of this as well? cut pipe between 2 valves and block up, take off the manifold and weld something in the hole...
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RWD Fanatic...
2003 BMW 320d Wagon (getting old and boring)
1996 Mini Kensington (SWMBO's)
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Jul 26, 2015 17:59:37 GMT
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ONE OF MY COILS IS CRACKED!  I took out all the plugs to see if any particular one was blackened... turns out one of my coils has two big cracks in it. As I was putting the coils back (after cleaning the plugs as I need to use the car one day this week even if it is running rough), I realise that two of them were a bit loose, I suspect due to cross threading the securing screw/bolt was sitting a bit high. I added some washers in order to secure the coils better so they couldn't move around, I'm suspecting this may have contributed to the cracking of one of them. |
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Jul 26, 2015 18:14:05 GMT
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Great news David! So in the end the O2 sensor was fine? And what about the damn overheating, is it still better?
Koen
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Jul 26, 2015 20:19:58 GMT
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Over heating issue is still there, still need to get gasket material so I can take apart the thermostat and have a look. It is much better since the idle is now not insane! This is the coil pack :  Guess which of these it went with :  |
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Has the problem been solved by replacing the cracked coilpack?
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Yes and no .. it is A LOT better... but it still flat spots a bit at around 3-4k rpm ... I think one of the sensors is suspect for sure.
It is still running rich too.
Interestingly someone on Driftworks for a similar problem said "is it running rich?? try the water temp senders not unpluged" ... given that I have some overheating issues I'm wondering if this is related... I get a temp reading, but are the temp sensor and sender two different bits in this engine?
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Hmmm, interesting! I'm still on the fence about the lambda readings, reading 0 as a value for extended periods of time, while throttle input is not the same and overall load is also varying just isn't logical... About the tempsensor/sender: I can only think of it to be the same... I most certainly hope this all gets done with quick so you can finally fully enjoy the car! Koen (aka "The dutch contigent")  |
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There will be a sensor & a sender.
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Probably a dumb question Alex, but whats the difference?... It could be my English, but probably just a bit of knowledge I'm still missing |
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