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Jul 23, 2015 18:13:11 GMT
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I hope i can get some answers here, The Corrado runs like a bullit when cold, and i can drive around the world. But .... once i have shut the car off, and start her up again i can drive for a little bit and then it cuts out, sometimes it farts a little into the exhaust and then dies. Once its cold again i can drive around the world again.
What i have replaced so far is:
distributar cap and rotor sparkplugs and leads ruled out the hall sensor error with a led hallsensor checks good other bobine.
I cant really know of something else whats wrong and i am hoping some of you here have had the same error and will share the solution with me . Thanks John
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omega
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,060
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Jul 23, 2015 18:52:01 GMT
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coil maybe if these have one once it gets hot the coil breaks down
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Jul 23, 2015 18:52:42 GMT
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coil maybe if these have one once it gets hot the coil breaks down Did replaced the coil for a other one and it makes no differance.
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drew
Part of things
Posts: 153
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Jul 23, 2015 20:09:55 GMT
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Maybe try the coolant temperature sensor? They are a common problem on a lot of cars, I've experienced a few go on 90s VWs. Sometimes there are 2 fitted, where one will operate the dash coolant gauge, and the other does the ECU. Other times there's one sensor that does both. I think the mk3 Golf 8v I had used the same engine and had one sensor.
If your car does have two it will be the one for the ECU that's playing up.
I would have thought this would act up as soon as it is warm though, without being affected by shutting it off and starting again when warm so it might not be that, but it's cheap to check.
Have you changed the fuel filter?
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The flaps always look a bit gash
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Jul 23, 2015 22:09:04 GMT
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Maybe try the coolant temperature sensor? They are a common problem on a lot of cars, I've experienced a few go on 90s VWs. Sometimes there are 2 fitted, where one will operate the dash coolant gauge, and the other does the ECU. Other times there's one sensor that does both. I think the mk3 Golf 8v I had used the same engine and had one sensor. If your car does have two it will be the one for the ECU that's playing up. I would have thought this would act up as soon as it is warm though, without being affected by shutting it off and starting again when warm so it might not be that, but it's cheap to check. Have you changed the fuel filter? It has 1 coolant sensor with 4 connections it has a yellow band around it, i have a all blue one lying around here that has also 4 connections i guess i could give it a goo to try out. Also can heat soak be playing tricks on my LMM (airflow mass meter) or is the lambda sensor shot ? It is possible to drive the car without the Lmm ? (disconnect) fuel filter is new (ish) and connected the right way, only one way to placed it anyway.
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2015 22:10:49 GMT by collector
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drew
Part of things
Posts: 153
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Jul 24, 2015 20:05:04 GMT
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I think the resistance of the sensor is different between the blue and yellow band sensors, but I am not certain. Have you tried unplugging the coolant sensor when it's acting up? I did this on a 1.4 engined Seat Ibiza I once owned and it went from being a kangarooing, stalling undriveable lump to something that at least had a steady idle and was driveable. If it runs when it is unplugged but not when plugged in it needs replacing.
I think you can also drive with the lambda unplugged, it should use a default value in the same way it does when the coolant temp sensor is unplugged. I wouldn't do it for too long though as they default on the rich side and you may cause damage to the cat.
Normally disconnecting the airflow mass meters have made my cars stall, but I can't say for sure that yours would. You could try it again and see.
Other than that I would check for bad earths around the engine bay.
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The flaps always look a bit gash
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Sept 4, 2015 16:04:31 GMT
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Car is running fine now, faulty part was the crankshaft sensor, took me awhile to get that one sorted out i can tell you. 1 hour job they told me, started at 11 in the morning and at 5 o clock in the evening i closed the bonnet, 1 hour job sure !! Did the shakedown today and car runs strong and didnt mis one beat.
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hario
Part of things
S202 C300STD
Posts: 421
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Sept 14, 2015 12:59:57 GMT
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I had the exact same problem with my car (not VW). it would shutdown after 20 minutes regardless of what or how it was run / idling etc.
What I'm saying is it metered fine on the bench but the semiconductor material must have broke down when hot (cracked and expanded open when hot?).
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Last Edit: Sept 14, 2015 13:00:28 GMT by hario
*S202 C300TD Wagon* Installed: OM606 & 722.6, Evo6 IC, S600AMG callipers & 345mm rotors. No catz. Leatherish seats.. Rust.. Future: DIY manifolds & turbo compound build. Built IP, & some kind of software. Less rust..
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Sept 14, 2015 17:46:58 GMT
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I had the exact same problem with my car (not VW). it would shutdown after 20 minutes regardless of what or how it was run / idling etc.
What I'm saying is it metered fine on the bench but the semiconductor material must have broke down when hot (cracked and expanded open when hot?). What i have done is take a resistance meter (Fluke multimeter) and connected it to the sensor and cold it measured 800 ohms and thats okay as the range was 600 to 1200 ohms. Then heat up the sensor and immediately the ohms dropped like crazy to the mid 200 early 300 ohms range, and thats not good. there was nothing to see on the outside of the sensor faulty part was on the inside i guess Replaced the sensor for a brand new one from the UK no less and the problems are over. enjoying the corrado once again.
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Last Edit: Sept 14, 2015 17:47:59 GMT by collector
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Sept 27, 2015 14:12:49 GMT
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I have the original rear lights from the Corrado, and the old owner was nice enough to throw some clear lights in the deal. I thought the look of those isn't doing the Corrado any good so i have made a decision to tint those lights. Before and after picture are added into the thread and i am curious what the retro riders think of this transition. Before After
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