tome30
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,001
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Thanks for all the encouragement, I'm actually really enjoying it! I am now only spot welding as trevorhutchins says long lines just splatter everywhere. With thick to thin metal I concentrate the tip on the thick for 2 seconds then push the weld over the thinner piece, seems to work...working with mostly 1.7mm metal and 0.8 wire. I lived in Kent for 32 years but now live in Sweden. Flights with Ryanair cost 30 quid return but not sure you can book an extra seat for a portable MIG.
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Gasless tends to spatter, a lot!
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,635
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Thanks for all the encouragement, I'm actually really enjoying it! I am now only spot welding as trevorhutchins says long lines just splatter everywhere. With thick to thin metal I concentrate the tip on the thick for 2 seconds then push the weld over the thinner piece, seems to work...working with mostly 1.7mm metal and 0.8 wire. That's always going to make the job harder, welding thick to thin - you've got the right technique, but with steel of similar thickness and thinner wire I think you might find it easier, but I've never used gasless so I could be wrong. If you have trouble with it blowing through and can get to either side of the weld, try holding (ideally) a brass block, but any thick bit of metal will do, behind the join as you weld - helps dissipate the heat.
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Last Edit: Oct 4, 2015 9:22:26 GMT by ChrisT
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If you have trouble with it blowing through and can get to either side of the weld, try holding (ideally) a brass block, but any thick bit of metal will do, behind the join as you weld - helps dissipate the heat. Great idea, seems very obvious when it's been explained like that but I would never have thought of it myself. If not brass, what would be next best?
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,635
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Anything really, I've just got a lump of steel about 1" thick - when welding thin material any kind of thick metal will work as the welder will not be turned up high enough to fuse anything to it.
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Wilk
Part of things
Posts: 528
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Better off using a non ferrous metal as a heat sink coz if the weld does blow through there's less chance of the heat sink fusing to the required line of weld
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If it can be fixed with a hammer, then it must be an electrical fault
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If not brass, what would be next best? I've used a short offcut of plumbers copper pipe, just flatten one end with a hammer to make a flat plate to hold behind your weld and stop blowing through
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I've used a short offcut of plumbers copper pipe, just flatten one end with a hammer to make a flat plate to hold behind your weld and stop blowing through Nice one, cheers.
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smeden
Part of things
"Full throttle until you see God,then shift to second"
Posts: 356
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Jaguar xj6 S1 swb manual VW Bay Camper Audi A3 1998 1.8 VW Beach Buggy (sold) Ford Mondeo mrk I RS Celebration (written off) Ford Escort Mrk II RS 2000 (rust in peace)
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tome30
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,001
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Update Well it was fun to finally get stuck into welding and learn by my many mistakes, but a decent welder is a must, and had to prioritize where I throw my hard earned money. We needed another car so I can get to work so I threw my money at a MK3 Golf instead, the welding project must take a back seat for a while. Thanks for all of your advise, what would I do without the RR community!? 97 CL 1.8
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