C20XE sump bolt torque settings

[ems1]

I've got a C20XE with a Manta sump and 2 cork gaskets. Does anyone know what torque settings I need for the sump bolts?

Thanks

[gtviva]

the book says 5Nm with locking compound on the bolt threads, not sure the 1.8 Manta used a baffle plate with 2 cork gaskets though? cant remember now!

[DavidB]

Use the 2.0 8v baffle plate and gasket. The cork ones leak all the time. The 8v one is a rubber one that encloses the baffle plate. Mine hasn't leaked a drop.
You'll thank me when it doesn't leak on your driveway!

[Mantasport]

With the manta alloy sump i never use the original XE baffle plate as the sump runs so close to the crank for the front 2/3rds and is then very deep and covered at the sides at the rear. You don't get the same problems of oil sloshing around up to the crank as with the wide shallow FWD sump.

Normally i just use a single cork gasket and tighten evenly until it feels right. Haven't had a leaky one yet.

[Iain]

SBD torque settings cheat sheet is well worth a print off and stashing in your garage.

www.sbdev.co.uk/Info_sheets/TORQUE_SETTINGS/2-0L%20XE%2016V.pdf

This says 11lb/ft with loctite 243.

[ems1]

Thanks for the replies, I've got a major leak from the sump gasket and it's only run for around 15 minutes. I'll torque it up to the settings on the SBD sheet to see if it will stop. Don't want to remove the engine again!

[ems1]

A quick update. I torqued the bolts up, started the car and let it idle. Looked underneath to see oil pouring out from the front left corner. Time for another gasket, also is there anything else I need to check?

Thanks

[sal]

I changed the gasket several times on my 8v engine recently and couldn't get a seal on the front corner beside timing belt. I was doing it on car from below and the gasket always seemed to move slightly as it was torqued.

I used a layer of gasket sealer from Vauxhall directly onto the sump and then cable tied the rubber gasket in place through the bolt holes. Flipped it over to place weight of sump onto gasket and left over night to set. Fitted it next day minus the cable ties and with sealer on top side of gasket and gave it a good few hours to go off before filling with oil and had no problems since.

[DavidB]

Use the 8v gasket.

[darrenh]

if its only leaking with the engine running it sounds oil pressure related to me, front left screams oil pump. O ring between the oil filter sandwhich plate and the block (if you are using one) oil filter seal, oil pressure senders (either the unions to the oil pump or the senders can leak out of the bulb itself) or the gasket between the oil pump and block, various other blanking plugs on the pump and block.

early engines used a paper gasket between the oil pump and block, this can dry out and leak, later a thin tin one was introduced and is way more durable.

other ideas, there is a join between the engine block and oil pump which forms the mating face for the sump, this needs a bit of chemical resistant rtv smeared in the groove to help it seal. its also possible there is a slight missmatch in deck height between the pump and block which would compound any leaks.

seal between the nose of the crank shaft and the oil pump

also possible for oil to leak between teh thrust ring and the crank (there is a removable sleeve that slides over the crank which forms the running surface of the crank seal) also also also, its common for this thrust ring to get grooved after many thousands of miles and even an new seal wont stop the leaks