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Sept 20, 2015 12:57:42 GMT
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Hi Folks, I'm in the process of repairing the front end of my E28 Beemer after it had an argument with a deer back in January. I have bought the paint, and I have a compressor and spray gun. I have repaired and filled the bonnet, grafted on a replacement front "frame", and etch primered and prepped the lot (rattle can) Its two pack paint. I thought yesterday that I'd make a start on account of the hot weather, but before I did I had a read of some tutorials. First question is that 2k is of course really really dangerous stuff, more dangerous than I thought having read the horror stories. I intend to spray it outside, as I don't have anywhere inside. Purely from a safety point of view, is this as acceptable or do I still need a mask, air fed or otherwise? Second question is the paint mixing. I have paint, thinners, lacquer, and hardener. I know to mix the paint with the thinners 1:2, should I add hardener to this and if so what proportion/quantity? I assume that the lacquer is the top coat, sprayed after the base has dried, do I add hardener to this? Third question is I don't think my compressor has a water/oil trap- can anybody reccommed one? Sorry if I sound a bit obtuse here but I want to get this as right as I can! Thanks in advance Dave
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1986 BMW 628csi, 2003 Alfa Romeo 147, 1992 Jaaaaag XJ40, 1982 BMW R100 cafe racer.
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Sept 20, 2015 14:45:53 GMT
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2 parts paint..1 part hardener 10% thinners
2k is the easiest to spray and get a finish BUT its very naughty stuff.....a paper mask or even a charcoal mask ISNT enough...by the looks of your compresor it wont have enough wind to carry the gun for long enough so youll end up with dry edge and orange peel......... metallic paint is tricky to panel match even with the identical paint match .... is it worth all the agro to make a poor job??
if so......
air at 45 psi don't try to hammer wet coats on with the base coat (it will dry matt) wet the floor all around the car...stop dust blow the car off with air before you paint..
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Sept 20, 2015 15:40:18 GMT
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As woz says, 45 psi, but that compressor will run out of air in under 30 seconds. For the colour, I'm assuming the shop have given you base coat. Mix 1:1 with thinner and apply in light coats until you get the colour match you're satisfied with. For the lacquer, mix 2 parts lacquer to 1 part hardener, then add 10% thinner to the total. Put on a light dust coat first, allow to flash off for 5 mins, then apply your first wet coat. Wait until that has just gone off, then apply second coat, and same for the third. Personally I wouldn't put more than 3 wet coats on as it will look odd compared to the rest of the car. As I said earlier, I think you're going to struggle with that compressor, but by all means give it a go. Leave the finished job to cure for 24 hours, then wet flat with 1500 grade paper and machine polish with Farecla G3, then a proper machine glaze before giving the whole lot a really good wax polish. Best of luck.
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'96 Volvo 850T5 x2, '97 Alfa 145 Cloverleaf '96 Alfa 155, '91 XR2i 2.0 Zetec (sold), '88 BMW 520i slug (sold), '81 Escort Mk3 Project, '68 Mk1 Escort Estate, Berlingo Parts Chaser.
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tdipd
Part of things
Posts: 121
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Sept 20, 2015 15:41:46 GMT
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are you sure that the base coat ( the grey colour coat) is 2pack? If you are, then mix as above.
However, you've mentioned you have laquer (clear coat?) too? I've never put clear coat over 2k paint.
If you find out that your base coat is actually single pack (as all have been in my case) then mixture is 1 base : 1 thinners, no hardener as it's singe pack.... using a 1.2-1.4 nozzle and around 40psi at the regulator (which is usually equal to roughly 12psi at the guns cap)
2-3 light coats with this, then a third or fourth slightly heavier coat ... about 10-15mins between coats
clean your gun
allow 1-2 hour then come back for clear coat mixed at 2 clear : I hardener : 10% thinners.... same gun, I usually use 35 psi at the regulator for clear
1 light coat, 2 heavier coats. It'll run easier, so know when to stop.
with regards to masks, I most definately use one even when outdoors. I use a disposable Gerson from ebay. Water trap, get one, but i cant advise on brand, my compressor came with one.
ps. i persume your gun is a gavity fed HVLP?
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2015 15:43:32 GMT by tdipd
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tdipd
Part of things
Posts: 121
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Sept 20, 2015 15:46:17 GMT
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Just seen your compressor. If I were you I'd try just doing the slam panel first, and see how it goes. Then decide on doing the bonnet.
also, I've had bad reactions before using paint from the gun over rattle canned etch primer, but others haven't. If you have issues this may be the cause.
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2015 15:49:37 GMT by tdipd
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Sept 29, 2015 20:16:41 GMT
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All off the above! Mask; yes. Best you can buy, i like those with screw-on disposable filters. Can be found cheapish at autoparts stores, just be sure to pick up one with the correct filters. Def. use a water separator / air dryer. Could ruin your day if you don't... And as said; try the slam panel first! Having to sand it all back can be a real downer. Good luck, post some more pics when your done! Looks like a nice E28 .
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Social hand grenade. Does not play well with others.
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Sept 29, 2015 20:34:11 GMT
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You do definitely need a mask, almost anything of that age will have originally been clear over base and that's what the paint place would normally supply. I think you can get away with using an appropriate filter mask but you need the correct one, a paper dust mask will do no good at all. If you have facial hair (sorry if you are a lady) use Vaseline in it to get the mask to actually seal to use face, a beard is not a sensible method of filtration:)
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Sept 29, 2015 20:36:05 GMT
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it can be done at home flat black 2k talk abt. paint thats very hard to get it right.
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Read the paint instructions they will tell you how to mix the paint.
If you do nothing else, get a charcoal mask. You only get one set of lungs.
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