Stuck door lock barrel

[Smiler]

Hello folks,

Have any of you managed to overcome a broken door lock barrel that won't unlock? It isn't seized solid, it still moves. It just won't now unlock as if I were using the wrong key.

Does anyone know of any good tricks to coax the barrel round to unlock?

Cheers,

Smiler.

[Sweetpea]

I would imagine one of the pin stacks has stuck.
Take a look at the animation on this page... Clicky

As the key is inserted the high points on the key 'over lift' the pin stacks. If one sticks at this high point and doesn't follow the contours of the key the lock won't open.
I'd fill it with WD40 (other penetrating fluids are available - and probably better) and rattle the key in and out. Maybe tap the barrel with a screwdriver handle to shock the pin free. You might be lucky.

Don't force it to turn though cos you'll damage the pin and it may never open.

Good luck
James

PS I'm assuming it failed suddenly and it's not just that the key is worn?

[Smiler]

Cheers, I have been trying to jiggle it loose with application of oil with no success so far. I've been gingerly banging atoud the lock to try to shock it free too but have to take some care as the car is fibreglass. It's a Scimitar SE6A and \i belive the combined handle/lock assy.s are of Allegro origin.

[fordperv]

Have you got any lock specialist local? I only ask because I've had a few borked locks and I use a local place, the price they charge for whipping the lock to bits replacing buggered bits isn't worth me messing about potentially buggering it further.

[Sweetpea]

^^That's not a bad bit of advice.

Can you get the lock off the car? If so your next step would be to soak it in diesel (or something) for a night. You can be a bit more aggressive with the shock tactics too. One of those ultrasonic cleaners is probably the best thing.

There may be a point where you are stuffed and just need to give it to someone who does it for a living though. Or buy a new lock. I've never heard of people re-pinning car door locks but a good lock smith could probably pin a replacement lock to match your key. Worth asking.

[igor]

I had this issue with a Ford EA Falcon station wagon. The locks were full of dust from our unsealed roads. The tailgate one was the worst. I removed the lock barrel from the tailgate and gave it a bath in nice clean engine oil. For the door locks I think I got away with dipping the key in oil and inserting into the lock barrel repeatedly but I may have taken the door ones out too, I don't remember. Changing Falcon door locks is a horrible job, I remember that much. Good luck.

[spandelly]

I have never stripped one from a scimitar but it might not be pins but a wafer system. Wafers are easier to get loose than a pin tumbler. But there's a lot more area for things to get stuck in. Get an old feeler gauge or a similar thin bit of metal and cut it down to a few mill wide. Spray the lock with wd and rattle it up and down a bit to try and release it. If that doesn't work take the handle off and take it to a locksmiths. Anyone worth there salt should be able to fix it unless something has failed then you will need to replace it. But you will still be able to use your old lock to rebuild the new one to your old key.

[Smiler]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Sadly I cannot remove the lock as I cannot get the door card off with the door closed (row of screws around the edges within the door shut).

One thought mind, the door won't unlock from the internal door pin either. I need to refresh my memory as to how the mechanism works (by taking the drivers door apart). I recently removed that doors internal mechanisms, freed them all off and lubricated it. It was working beautifully until it just suddenly stopped.

I'd rather not destroy the door card trying to get to it as the last time I looked a similar good condition replacement sold for £50.

[Smiler]

After a bit of jiggling with the inner pin and handle, It's open! I removed the door card straight away!

The barrel appears fin in operation. The mechanism that the handles and locks operate is all good with no real way that I can see of causing it to jam. Therefore I am led to suspect the latch mechanism itself. I cleaned and lubricated this as far as I could when I originally free'd it all of so I shall keep an eye out for a replacement.

Cheers,

Smiler.

[nomad]

@sweatpea - thanks for the animation, makes it much easier to explain how locks work

Oct 5, 2015 11:13:46 GMT Sweetpea said:

I've never heard of people re-pinning car door locks...

Is not difficult if the lock is bolted together, much harder if the lock is crimped together retrorides.proboards.com/thread/120463/1996-citroen-ax-5d-sold#page=3

Smiler, sounds like a good result
for future info, if you can't open the door using the internal handle, it usually points to a problem with the linkages / mechanism, not a key/doorlock issue

[Sweetpea]

Smiler well done for getting in. Bloody minded persistence wins again!

nomad that's an interesting link. I hadn't realised they often used wafer locks. Probably a bit more robust in wet gritty conditions even though they are generally thought of as being rubbish.
Now you can visualise the internal workings of the lock your next challenge is to learn how to pick them. It's not quite like the movies would have you believe but it's quite possible to do (on some locks anyway - many have defeated me but then I don't practice enough). Look it up and give it a try.

James

[nomad]

^ sweetpea
I've stripped locks from lots of 60s/70s Brit tin, the 90s AX in the pic, and more - shame I can't remeber which used wafers & which were pins   The early ones were held together by screws (easy to DIY fix) later were crimped together (lots of fun)
Domestic (house Yale) locks I've stripped normally have pins, same as the animation in your link.

The engineeer in me loves to know how things work, shout anytime you're up North, welcome to call in for coffee & compare notes