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Oct 11, 2015 19:02:45 GMT
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I have been gathering all the bits I think I need for my conversion, having got fed up with chasing rust on my other cars, I really want something that is reliable, economical, old and comfortable, and ok for winter use. So I have bought an se6, a good musso engine, merc 190 auto box, and prop. My intention is to lift the body, sort any issues, maybe get it galvanised, fit the running gear and then adjust the tunnel after to fit around the engine. From what I have measured it doesn't look too bad, the oil filter may be an issue as its so tall, and I will have to look into a remote conversion.... Has anyone done it? I have bought a heated screen for it (it's a winter car), and will have to make a new heater unit for it as the original is on the bulkhead which will be cut. I'll see how much room I have and fit a big matrix, and probably the original blower fans as they mount in the bumper and therefore quiet, but it'll just heat the car-better! I'm not expecting it to be fast, but it'll probably be not much worse than the Essex ......and it'll start in all weathers, heat up quickly, and run on veg oil! So, what do you all think? Madness, or good move?
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Last Edit: May 24, 2017 21:37:59 GMT by datsundrew
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Oct 11, 2015 19:09:50 GMT
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Forgot to add that I have got some very nice xjs seats (heated) to go into it, a roll of carpet, roof lining and rubber mats. Our Volvo Amazon is good in that it has no carpet and fitted rubber mats, and I intend to use a lot more rubber than carpet (ooh - err) to be similar. I'm really looking forward to getting this done, and have set a deadline to drive it to Scotland next autumn.....as long as it's comfortable....are they? Anyone used one for long, what are the drawbacks?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Oct 11, 2015 19:29:11 GMT
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I've seen the oil filter housing removed and a remote filter block custom made and fitted somewhere on the SuperTurboDiesel forum, so it should be do-able but I doubt it's something that could be bought off the shelf?
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Oct 11, 2015 19:41:41 GMT
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Yes I've seen that too, it looks like 2 ally blocks with 3 holes in each, joined on flexis? Looks easy, bet it's not! Lol
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Oct 12, 2015 20:19:25 GMT
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That looks a very tidy starting point. If anything it's so tidy on top, it's worth a close inspection of the chassis before you commit to lifting the body. They rot in common places, and if those are OK, you may not need to the strip it. Even if there is some rot, the usual spots can be fixed with localised repairs with the body on. I admire that you want to fully sort it, but body-off rebuilds turn into a much longer job than you thought. Someone here dropped a BMW straight-six diesel into an SE6a too. Get yourself over to Scimitarweb.co.uk if you've not dropped in yet. They're a helpful bunch and not at all purist. [Shouldn't this be in Readers' Rides section?]
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Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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Oct 12, 2015 21:11:51 GMT
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That does look nice, watching with interest.
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www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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jonk
Part of things
Posts: 154
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Oct 12, 2015 21:33:48 GMT
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Sounds like a very clever plan.
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Oct 12, 2015 22:19:50 GMT
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Thanks, the chassis is actually very good, just the side rails and one outrigger needs a look at, there is surface rust above and each side of the fuel tank, but it's not accessible with the body in place. I'll try not to get too bogged down in a full on resto, just concentrate on a de rust, fuel pipes (and a new return to the tank) and brake pipes etc, to get it safe and reliable.....that's the plan!
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Aug 22, 2016 21:07:12 GMT
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Update on this thread!! Hoping the pic comes out. Having had a good look at my chassis and a bit of welding needed the insides of the box are fresh paint and nil rust, just surface outside. It's going off to be blasted this week, and then off to be galvanised. Its going to make the job so much easier, and should make a good long term car with the merc motor in it. I will try to keep this updated as I go. I have replaced all of the body/ chassis bolts, so come D day it should not be too bad.l
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Last Edit: Oct 24, 2017 21:32:14 GMT by datsundrew
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Aug 22, 2016 22:21:46 GMT
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Yeah, thread should be moved to Reader's Rides.
Most people think of fibreglass cars as being corrosion proof, the chassis are anything but - if you can get it galvanised I'd certainly advocate that you do.
The other fallacy with fibreglass cars is that, without risk of corrosion, the body is low maintenance. There are all sorts of issues with fibreglass panels which you don't find with metal panels. You could find that fibreglass repairs / respray need to be done reasonably regularly.
It's a shame to lose the Essex, it's a very good engine & when it's set up properly should give you a pretty good turn of speed. I don't think many people buy these cars with economy in mind.
I've always thought the Scimitar to be quite a handsome car, yours looks particularly good with the twin tone paint.
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2016 22:26:36 GMT by MkX
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Aug 22, 2016 23:48:24 GMT
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Hi, I think that you remove the line about you're use a secondhand chassis otherwise you could run into registration problems when the time comes and lose the identity.
Colin
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,293
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Hi, I think that you remove the line about you're use a secondhand chassis otherwise you could run into registration problems when the time comes and lose the identity. Colin Unless that chassis came with a V5c, in which case you'd use that ID instead.
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I got the v5c with it, and it's a better plate too, plus 2 years older.
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Aug 23, 2016 10:55:55 GMT
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Hi, That's all good then, just checking. Colin
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Aug 23, 2016 20:42:07 GMT
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Another thing that I'm on with is the rear side windows, they leak so I bought a new pair of seals......expensive seals......and it still leaks! Talking to people in the club this is apparently normal which no doubt is the reason that the seat belt mount and the chassis below it rots out, the normal way to deal with it is to use sealer. Thinking about how the water goes around the glass and to the bottom inner edge, it dawned on me that if I were to but an opening rear window in and a rubber around the hole, any water running down the windiow will just run off, plus the bonus of some extra ventilation. A trip to my scrappie got me hinges and openers from a Ka, and some door seal and a template made out of Perspex and it looks like it'll work well. A friend who gets bus windows made now has the template and is on the case.....and it's going grey tint too, so hope it works ok. I'm hoping I may be able to glue the stainless finishers on to the glass so it'll look original, and cover the area of the glass that sits on the seal.
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Aug 23, 2016 23:46:03 GMT
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Itching to see this finished If you get stuck I've bonded windows in a scimitar before and cleaned up the recess around the window ( ill try and find a pic) so it made it look much cleaner A decent glass primer and silkaflex would do the job. Good luck with the build looking forward to seeing it
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Aug 24, 2016 19:43:11 GMT
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Yes I'd like to see a pic of one bonded, I did think of that but thought the glass was a bit small to fill the hole......so I thought get bigger glass, then though go all the way and be flash with opening 😀 I read somewhere that scimitars are very hot inside in the summer, so as well as opening windows I will somehow use multilayer insulation when I replace the totally rotten head lining
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Aug 24, 2016 19:52:31 GMT
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Hi I'll dig out my old laptop and send you the pics I made a frame bonded it in to allow an amount of over lap for the glass then made a plug of the glass and filled the gap between that and the original opening. Saying that your are right about fiberglass cars,they seem to absorb so much heat, i think thats why all the internal trim comes unglued so any way of venting it is gonna help
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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No idea how I missed this? I have a 5a with the BMW/Omega straight six diesel turbo - sounds crazy and goes pretty well. Currently off the road waiting for a clutch and general refurb. As Daryl says, get this on scimitarweb - I've not heard of an OM606 conversion before.
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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There have been a few 4-pot diesel conversions done (Ford 2.5 and even a Perkins I think?) but not a 5-pot diesel - there was a 5-pot Audi lump in a Coupe in Scotland but I think it was a petrol.
Having had an OM605 in a C-class, there's something about the sound of a 5-pot that appeals - although the 6-pot in Jim's 5a does sound mean!
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