Balljoint splitters

[keithyboy]

I tried a cheap machine mart scissor-type one on my Saab track rod ends and it broke. I have a fork-type one but it's no use where I'm mot scrapping the joint anyway. I have one of these:

[img src="i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah88/keefilton/temporary_zpsyogxbrdy.jpg" src="" alt=" "]

But it's too small to be any real use. What I'm looking for is a scissor-type one that will withstand any abuse I throw at it.

Any recommendations?

[Deleted]

I find a sharp hit with a heavy short handle lump hammer is enough to dislodge ball joints most of the time.

[keithyboy]

I used to find that too. But I've come across a couple of late where it hasn't worked. The Saab in particular doesn't respond to that approach.

[skylinedave]

www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/suspension-tools/ball-joint-removal

Dogs bits .

[keithyboy]

Oct 17, 2015 18:51:11 GMT skylinedave said:

www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/suspension-tools/ball-joint-removal

Dogs bits .

Which one though?

[chairchild]

I've had a relatively cheapo "Laser" scissor type splitter for many years. But admittedly I've never had to use more than a ratchet to break the tapers it's been thrown at. It has however, split a balljoint that knackered my hammer-split type, and with utter ease too.

Might've been a case of a one-off dodgy casting?

[skylinedave]

Any of them , all great quality and made to last

[Wilk]

If it's REALLY stuck, put some pressure on it with scissor type or put it under load/tension. Then place lump hammer on one side of knuckle to take the reflective impact and give the opposing side a good clout with another big hammer. Works every time

Once had a bottom ball joint on a front hub on a BMW mini well stuck. Ended up with mate hanging off a 4ft lever bar wedged in gap in bottom arm and me smacking the side of the ball joint knuckle like a loon (been in trade 30 years and well used to wielding a hammer on a daily basis so was really giving it some pain) still took several good smacks before the taper gave free

[sarkie83]

I've used the scissor ones but didn't find them that good. Fork ones always seem to do the job. Both do an equally good job of destroying rubber boots!

[Midas]

I've had a Sykes scissor type for donkeys years and it has never failed to crack any joint I could get it into.

[BT]

I hate firm ball joints.

My method consists of a decent penetrating oil. Leave for a suitable amount of time (usually do this the night before the job). Then smack with a very sturdy lump hammer or mallet.

Sometimes it's hard to get a direct knock on the knuckle. In this case I use a bit of 19mm solid bar. I place the bar on the knuckle and smack away.

If that is no success then I get a fork type splitter. I smack this in and in most cases it doesn't totally split the joint. I then take my dad and smack it on the knuckle or shoulder this way. So far it's been successful.

[Deleted]

If you are splitting the BJ to do suspension/ drive shaft work then don't worry about the rubber boot as you can but new ones for a few quid.

[sarkie83]

Oct 17, 2015 23:24:01 GMT @1300dolly said:

If you are splitting the BJ to do suspension/ drive shaft work then don't worry about the rubber boot as you can but new ones for a few quid.

Yeah I didn't release u could for ages- now got a stash of 'em ??

[sparkyt]

Put some weight on the joint as to split it apart like a good bar or jack . .

Take two bug hammers and hit both sides of the taper socket at the same time . .

Works for me the last 20 years . . No splitting tool required . .

[igor]

Always used the two hammers method if one hammer alone does not do it.

[BT]

Never tried the double donk method. Will have to remember that one.

[Ebejeebies]

double hammer method works well and if you were replacing the ball joint, a bit of heat can help release it. but usually melts the rubber boot

[keithyboy]

The gist of this seems to be buy a bigger hammer.

[ChasR]

Oct 17, 2015 23:24:01 GMT @1300dolly said:

If you are splitting the BJ to do suspension/ drive shaft work then don't worry about the rubber boot as you can but new ones for a few quid.

They don't seem to last long unless you go for OE or genuine parts. It is something my MOT tester has noticed too. I have never until recently seen balljoint boots completely deriorate within 2 years.

With the sciscor type of balljoint breaker I have rarely split the boots however. Sometimes the hammer technique will work but more often than not I end up using the balljoint splitter.

[nomad]

Oct 23, 2015 12:10:40 GMT keithyboy said:

The gist of this seems to be buy a bigger hammer.

... so you now have 2 hammers, then use any of the "2 hammers" advice above
Has worked for me for many years