ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
|
I used high quality crimps instead of the crappy plastic coated things to lengthen mine, but it could be done the other way around on a narrowband sensor. So far the wire is held in very strongly with alot of the cable making contact with the crimp . I'll see if I can get a pic. I believe widebands aren't quite as easy to shorten since they have an air or heat pump setup which is one of the reasons for why they are more accurate, but I reckon someone else will have the answer .
|
|
|
|
froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
|
|
|
The wideband in my mid engined car runs from one end of the car to the other into the gauge then the 0-5 output to my ecu runs back to the rear bulkhead where the ecu sits, I had to extend the engine side and added a couple of ft with soldered joints and it reads perfectly well and from the datalog is exactly the same as the factory narrow band as far as that can see .
|
|
|
|
mad
Part of things
Posts: 126
|
|
|
I had an early eunos that had rich running problem when I brought it. No error codes but it would get so rich that it would misfire all the time. After the usual checks I replaced the temp sensor at the back of the block. The one with a green plastic clip. Solved all my problems, turns out this was telling the ecu it was still cold causing overfueling. Maybe worth investigating?
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
|
The wideband in my mid engined car runs from one end of the car to the other into the gauge then the 0-5 output to my ecu runs back to the rear bulkhead where the ecu sits, I had to extend the engine side and added a couple of ft with soldered joints and it reads perfectly well and from the datalog is exactly the same as the factory narrow band as far as that can see . Now that is interesting for future reference. Were the wires tinned or just normal wire? I know on the Lamdba the car came with the solder would not really take to the wire due to the tinning or material of the wire etc. I had an early eunos that had rich running problem when I brought it. No error codes but it would get so rich that it would misfire all the time. After the usual checks I replaced the temp sensor at the back of the block. The one with a green plastic clip. Solved all my problems, turns out this was telling the ecu it was still cold causing overfueling. Maybe worth investigating? I do plan to check that oddly enough . Just because I have eliminated one part doesn't mean that I am done yet. Mine does seem to have stopped misfiring now from stone cold on the odd occasion. It's a crying shame that the sensor is such a pain to get to, even with the CAS removed. The car did come with a spare coilpack which I may chance on the offchance ; I think it is still the original item, but even that doesn't look too easy. I don't know about the Eunos, as I think the Miatas came with a check Engine Light, but my car doesn't have a check engine light, meaning unless the car is running poorly or check the codes by chance you don't know what could be the issue.
|
|
Last Edit: Aug 9, 2016 7:56:01 GMT by ChasR
|
|
mad
Part of things
Posts: 126
|
|
Aug 15, 2016 13:13:50 GMT
|
I had an early eunos that had rich running problem when I brought it. No error codes but it would get so rich that it would misfire all the time. After the usual checks I replaced the temp sensor at the back of the block. The one with a green plastic clip. Solved all my problems, turns out this was telling the ecu it was still cold causing overfueling. Maybe worth investigating? I do plan to check that oddly enough . Just because I have eliminated one part doesn't mean that I am done yet. Mine does seem to have stopped misfiring now from stone cold on the odd occasion. It's a crying shame that the sensor is such a pain to get to, even with the CAS removed. The car did come with a spare coilpack which I may chance on the offchance ; I think it is still the original item, but even that doesn't look too easy. I don't know about the Eunos, as I think the Miatas came with a check Engine Light, but my car doesn't have a check engine light, meaning unless the car is running poorly or check the codes by chance you don't know what could be the issue.[/quote] Its not that difficult to swap. Just undo coil pack mount bolts. Move to one side and undo it with a spanner. If you have the new one to hand just put your finger over the hole when you pull the old one and quickly shove the new one in and you won't need to bleed the system.
|
|
|
|