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Feb 19, 2018 18:13:05 GMT
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This thread brings back many memories. The kits are pretty shockng in the fitment department eh? I did mine quite difference to this one. It's interesting to see how people tackle it mind you! It looks pretty good! I didn't finish mine off but I wasn't miles away in the end. My problem in hindsight was that I kept a stupidly tight budget on things, as in unrealistic. I dread to think of how much time I wasted by doing that! Keep up the work! forum.retro-rides.org/thread/35563/1979-sebring-blues-more-goodiesIf the pics can't be viewed view the site in Chrome but with the Photobucket plug-in . Great read and work that, fibre glass kits never fit but I am there now on gaps etc.I am enjoying it as I just dig it out and play when I get time and weather that way the spending doesn't feel to bad either, having said that I just forked out the best part of £500.00 for brakes, suspension, up rated roll bar, poly bushes, etc. New parts and money in the car though keep the commitment up to finish.
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Feb 20, 2018 17:04:32 GMT
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New springs & refurbished shocks, up rated anti roll bar with poly bushes Just waiting for all the poly bushes to turn up now, cleaned the steering rack and fitted new parts on ready for getting back on the car
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,862
Club RR Member Number: 58
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1973/74 MGB Sebring FINISHED adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Feb 20, 2018 18:49:22 GMT
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Nice work, I've been meaning to do the same with a load of suspension bits off my B but its a job I've put off for the past year or so now! Reading this is making me want to make a start on it again
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Feb 20, 2018 19:38:18 GMT
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Nice work, I've been meaning to do the same with a load of suspension bits off my B but its a job I've put off for the past year or so now! Reading this is making me want to make a start on it again Thanks when I started I thought it would just be a paint up but it is actually essential stuff as I found a hole in the top of a steering rod end (rusted through), broken spring, the steering rack gaiters both torn, most bushes in tatters. Cannot wait to get poly bushes in and the new disks on, also ordered new bearings for both sides and bump stops, might as well do the lot. Cheers for the comment.
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Feb 20, 2018 20:42:03 GMT
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So you did decide to forgo the telescopic conversion...what tipped that decision?
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Feb 20, 2018 22:30:05 GMT
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So you did decide to forgo the telescopic conversion...what tipped that decision? Good question, I gave it a lot of thought and ended up at staying with the original lever arms for now the reason being - - Coil over conversion - just to expensive for me as I have the MG as a hobby / play thing, also it is not very in keeping with the period.
- Gaz / Koni additional telescopic damper - to avoid having two dampers you need to disable the lever arm by removing the pistons, this leaves you with still the lever arm and a strut to the side rather than central of the suspension set up (a bit of a compromise). If any other owner after me decides to remove the additional strut the lever arm doesn't work and they wouldn't know you've messed with the lever arm.
My car will not be tracked or pushed to the limit so the period mods (up rated anti roll bar, drilled disks, roll cage, etc.) work but do not compromises anything,
This is purely an opinion on my behalf and I appreciate the comments by all on different set ups, there is no wrong just what's right for you.
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Feb 21, 2018 19:58:00 GMT
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You know you are getting back into it when you start working in the dark with a light, got the sub frame attached back to the car as the poly bushes for the job turned up, steering rack connected back in, refurb'd shocks fitted & new bump stops finished, lower suspension arms bolted back on. Hopefully the other poly bushes will turn up tomorrow so the rest can be fitted. It will never win a concours but it will drive better and hopefully keep the rust at bay -
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1973/74 MGB Sebring FINISHED ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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The rear telescopic kit is what made the real difference on my 'B. That was at rubber bumper height however. But that still felt more stable than the low mileage CB I later acquired. The fronts for me worked well. Yes, they are on the side of the suspension but they do still act on the same plane however. But I'd be more concerned about your bumpstops. If you have lowered springs there is a good chance that those bumpstops will bottom out. This is how mine looked on the Moss "Competition" springs and with the shortened bump stops ; as you can see it wasn't alot of room at all! On the plus side you won't have to take an angle grinder to the bolts if they corrode in the alloy spacer!
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2018 0:09:08 GMT by ChasR
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Feb 22, 2018 16:54:31 GMT
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More new parts turning up - More parts fitted on ply bushes now -
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Feb 22, 2018 18:44:51 GMT
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Nice to be bolting clean and new parts back on the car - Moving in the right direction!
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Feb 22, 2018 19:11:36 GMT
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If this isn't porn I don't know what is -
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,254
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If this isn't porn I don't know what is - Nice pair.
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Feb 25, 2018 12:27:51 GMT
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One side back together and everything that could be a pain was, from the anti roll bar bolt to drop link not wanting to go in, to having to disassemble it all because the caliper top bolt wouldn't go in. The disk shield was a couple of mm to far back for the caliper, had to take it off and just widen the mounting holes by a couple of mm to move it forwards. Need a final check on nuts and then onto the other side later.
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Feb 25, 2018 13:36:15 GMT
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the results are fantastic..looks great too!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Feb 25, 2018 17:47:47 GMT
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And that's the other side done, lot quicker this time -
Far cleaner underneath now, -
Got the wheels back on and dropped it off the axle stands, turned it round ready for doing the rear. Took a couple of hours just to tidy up the garage and put all the tools back I had kicking around, I'd got to that point were I couldn't find anything.
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I finally saw a break in the cold to get some work done on the back, I did the back brakes at the end of last year and noted then the state of the diff, drop hangers, but strangely I never noted that the rear had been converted to telescopic shocks, all be it years ago looking at the state, first job get exhaust back end off - The fuel tank is relatively new, again I took that off last year to clean up and paint behind it, so that's staying on, like new - Two axle stands per side and the wheels with wood on top underneath - After much unbolting only two bolts would not give both on the drive shaft coupling so had to grind them off, fast forward 2 hours - I can get to the old battery holder now to clean it up or do something with, I may make it into one box and plate the sides, has anyone else done anything with it -
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Mar 10, 2018 19:21:48 GMT
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Took the rest of the bits off the rear of the car today, shocks, drop hangers with a view to cleaning up and repairing the battery boxes. It started raining so I though then I might as well strip the bits off the back axle & clean it up, low and behold made a hole in the rear diff cover with a wire brush, got a wire wheel on to see it if would clean up to be welded and found two more pin prick sizes holes. The welder just blew through on the lowest setting, 40 years of rust have left it paper thin, that's another £80 to replace, joy - I just hope the casing cleans up without further issue
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Mar 10, 2018 21:11:47 GMT
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80 pound for a diff cover! Entire rear axles are "come get the damn thing" around here.
Try taking the cover off and welding it off the car. You might have to cut back to solid metal, but still, cant be that big of a rust spot.
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Mar 10, 2018 22:48:50 GMT
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80 pound for a diff cover! Entire rear axles are "come get the damn thing" around here. Try taking the cover off and welding it off the car. You might have to cut back to solid metal, but still, cant be that big of a rust spot. I took it off and got a wire wheel on all over it, that's what gave me the the other two holes, I cut some metal to weld in on the first but even on the lowest setting it was blowing holes through like it was paper. It then troubled me to think even if I plug the three holes what's the rest like, if another one springs a leak when I am driving that's the diff gone. I was looking for rear axles on ebay and I could get one for £150.00 and take the cover but they look no better condition than mine. At the end of the day I want the car trust worthy so i will have to bite the bullet and buy. I just hope the casing is thicker (and I am sure it is) as it looks like it's been at the bottom of the ocean for the last 40 years, I can scrape rust off in layers.
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Mar 10, 2018 23:23:55 GMT
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I used chemical metal to repair a few minor holes in the diff backplate. No leaks so far.
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