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Oct 18, 2016 18:08:37 GMT
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That small loom is the one you need to change, well, just the interconnected bit that bolts to the engine, where it interconnects between car and engine, that's where the immobiliser sits, its basically inside the male end of the wiring multi plug, it should then start fine. I'll try and find one on eBay to show you. Annoyingly there were no faults on the dash or anything to symbolise an immobiliser fault, the old fords used to blink the red led by the clock like mad if there was an issue. Ah ha here we are, should make sense now, it's inside the silver bit, you need that off the old engine. m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CORSA-1-2-ECU-IMMOBILISER-90532610-0261204475-24418925-/282106249217?nav=SEARCH
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taurus
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Oct 18, 2016 21:21:13 GMT
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If the immobilizer is activated the eml should flash.
The system runs a priming burst of the fuel pump when you first turn the key. Then it deactivates the fuel pump relay until the ecu gets a signal from the crankshaft sensor so it knows the engine is turning. Crankshaft sensor failure is very common, but they are cheap to replace.
It works by the ecu earthing out the fuel pump relay, check the ecu earth as you often need to add an extra earth on that model.
When you turn the key, but before the engine turns, there should be fuel pressure at the rail. If not then it's nothing to do with the immobilizer.
If swapping ecu you need the key chip and corresponding transponder (as in photos above)
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Last Edit: Oct 18, 2016 21:22:08 GMT by taurus
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düdo
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Oct 18, 2016 21:23:21 GMT
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Thanks again vaughant . I've actually got the engine management lamp glowing brightly - the engine symbol with the lightning bolt through it! Which indicates immobilisation situation. The small loom runs from a round, impressive looking blue plug which twists together. I was thinking there's a transponder in the steering column - that ring thing pictured in your link - which is activated by a chip in the key which then forms the holy triumvirate with the ECU and if you've got those three linked you're ready to go.. but that other component in the link you provided I haven't seen that on my travels..
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taurus
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Glowing or flashing?
The immobiliser if activated causes the eml to flash.
I am a bit confused at the photo as it seems to show the transponder and the ecu (no key chip?) - the ecu bolts to the engine and usually so long as you have matching key chip, transponder and ecu (the silver bit with the two multi-plugs on it) they'll work. Later versions of Vauxhalls needed the matching clocks - but the 1999 spec was pretty standard stuff.
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düdo
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Thanks taurus just saw your post this morning. When you say 'eml should flash' do you mean that it comes on or blinks? The eml is on solid - no flashing. I was considering crank sensor. I should swap the one off the old engine. I really appreciate the replies. Thankyou
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düdo
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Glowing or flashing? The immobiliser if activated causes the eml to flash. I am a bit confused at the photo as it seems to show the transponder and the ecu (no key chip?) - the ecu bolts to the engine and usually so long as you have matching key chip, transponder and ecu (the silver bit with the two multi-plugs on it) they'll work. Later versions of Vauxhalls needed the matching clocks - but the 1999 spec was pretty standard stuff. Ha that's funny.Missed your post again as I was writing my last one.. where exactly does that ecu fix onto the engine as I really haven't seen it?
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düdo
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The scrappers here sell the key, the transponder and the ECU that sits in the passenger footwell ( for left hand drive) as the 'security set' I wasn't aware there was a further control unit. As below.. 'made in UK' What does a solidly glowing eml indicate then? That I'm late for my first hairdressing appointment?
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2016 9:34:54 GMT by düdo
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taurus
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Oct 19, 2016 18:28:01 GMT
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My bad - on that model the ecu is in the footwell - I work so much on the ones where it is bolted to back of the intake. Same thing though, if you have the key chip, transponder and ecu matching it ought to work.
If the eml is on steady then it's not an immobiliser issue, the light blinks when the immobiliser is activated.
Most of the time a dud crank sensor doesn't throw a code as the ecu sees it as just the engine not turning.
Have you got any diagnostic kit that will read the codes? A solid eml can mean all sorts of things.
If it won't fire what are you missing? Sparks or fuel?
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düdo
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Oct 19, 2016 20:16:37 GMT
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Thanks again taurus. I assumed it was immobilising as I couldn't hear the pump running and the eml light was glowing. Re diagnostics I was reading up on the 'paper clip' method on the UK Vauxhall/Corsa forums.. sounds worth a go just for the crack I can't get back into the Tigra cage til the weekend then I'll investigate a bit further..
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taurus
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I'm pretty sure the ecu in yours won't do the paper clip trick. The earlier 8v jobbies could be read that way and the later ones used the pedals to read the codes, but the late 90's 16v engine ecu is a bit of a pain on that score because it's only readable with a diagnostic tool.
I usually use Opcom on the Corsa engines, it's cheap and pretty handy because it's Vauxhall specific.
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2016 12:48:19 GMT by taurus: Cos I was using my tablet half asleep and it does silly autocorrect
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düdo
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Thanks again taurus. Could you link to the Op Com you are referring to if you get a moment? The only Op Com system I can see available here is a bit steep around €350. I could possibly borrow something? Can you read codes from an engine that hasn't actually started and run?
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2016 8:18:11 GMT by düdo
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taurus
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Oct 20, 2016 12:57:57 GMT
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Look on ebay for opcom - just don't buy a Chinese clone. Plenty available from the UK. I've lent mine to a guy and not seen him since (must chase the blighter) - but it's usually about £30 or less. The bit that really helps is the live data monitor, I've tracked down a few problems with that which workshops can't spot.
The thing to do is to clear all codes to make sure there are no old ones in there, then try again, then check for new codes - any present will be the current ones. As you know the eml lights with the ignition and goes out when the engine fires, if your engine hasn't fired the eml won't go out, so there may not be a code present. However, if there is a sensor fault causing the none start then the eml should hold the code for that fault.
Just a thought, I don't know if the Tigra ever had this issue but loads of the early Corsa C models did - there is a connection at the back of the instrument panel that works loose. Initial symptoms are erratic instrument readings but it eventually leads to a none start situation. Sometimes a good firm press on the instrument cluster temporarily fixes it. Bit of a long shot, as said I have no reason to think the Tigra suffered from the same issue, but for a simple press on the clocks it's worth mentioning.
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Oct 20, 2016 15:47:19 GMT
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Hi buddy. On mine it was where the two wiring looms meet, the one FROM the car and the one AROUND the engine. They link up via that silver connector thing bolted to the side of the engine so you don't need to disconnect every connector to remove the engine a la all Vauxhall's of that era. That silver link plug talks to the key/ecu and believe me it won't start without it, turns over but won't fire, I didn't even know where the ecu location was on the corsa and I'd never heard the car running before replacing the engine, which was also untested but I trusted the seller. Turned out good in the end so happy days. The unit was located just above the gearbox on the side of the engine and my car was 1998/9 S registration, engine came from the same year vehicle. Some photos of that area of your engine would help identify but I'm almost certain it would be the same, after all the donor motor owner had upgraded to a 1.6 16v motor and no mention of changing wiring plugs. Also I can't really see Vauxhall swapping out car to loom plugs for one model of tigra compared to the rest of the range? The instrument clocks on that model have nothing to do with starting as I had them removed before with the engine running. Also the paper clip method doesn't work on that year and even my little snap on reader thing wouldn't respond to it, nor one in a larger garage, in the end I took it to a mate who had a "brand new at the time" snap on hand held tablet thing with a million different connectors and it read the codes ok. That, however most likely won't help you with the fault but I could be wrong, only codes it threw up for me were airflow meter and I think crank position sensor. It did run much better after swapping out the afm though, like a different car.
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Oct 20, 2016 15:52:05 GMT
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Also thinking about it my mate used to work in a scrappy and every key set they sold was like the one in my eBay link, it included that silver box on the side of the engine, keys. It caught me big time as I thought it was like the ford system where it was all done inside the car and had no relevance to swapping out an engine as the ecu was the same, just the wiring plugs on the engine being different. In fact I'm pretty sure on Vauxhall's of that era you don't need the same ecu, just that box silver box, I'm certain that's all they sold in my mates scrappy, eBay seems to suggest the same?
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düdo
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Oct 20, 2016 16:52:22 GMT
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Thanks for replies fellas taurus good tip re the Op Com. I've found one here for €30. They're all Chinese clones as the original is €350 for the entry level model aimed at the 'DIY mechanic'. If the 'tribute' model does the job I won't complain! Pressing on the instrument panel business reminds me of French cars I've had over the years. Don't need tools, just some laying on of hands. vaughant I think my model is different to the one that you did your conversion on. From the Haynes : 1.2 SOHC, 1.4 and 1.6 engines - The ECU is located behind the right-hand footwell trim panel. 1.0 and 1.2 DOHC engines -The ECU is attached to the inlet manifold.
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