jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Feb 13, 2017 22:56:46 GMT
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I can't thank you guys enough for the help and taking the time to post for me !!
Waveman - once I have some spare money ( kids keep needing feeding constantly which sets me back a bit lol ) I will take your advice and set things back to normal with stock stuff like your image
Fad - another amazing post !!! I'm actually going to get some smooth running I think with all that info and I'll follow your instructions next week when I'm back - I will post an image of the setup of the engine bay in a moment .
I drove the car to work today - the post about the choke system was spot on , now I have a choke that works ! The timing is currently at 15 degs past tdc - it still sounds fast to me however it is running way better than before , I am currently dumping the stuff from the breather into a glass bottle to see exactly what's coming out there and the air filter is blocked off where the breather is supposed to go. The engine doesn't seem to be running hot and it no longer stalls , but is using a fair bit of fuel , I think I'm up to maybe 18 mpg from 12 .
After getting it through the mot and insurance etc I'm a bit broke this month to get anymore bits so please don't judge the make do and mend lol - I know the air filter on it is wrong but was in better condition than what was on it ! Right I'll go take some pictures ! Be right back
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jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Feb 13, 2017 23:17:05 GMT
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jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Feb 13, 2017 23:27:26 GMT
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So there are the pictures ! Jar is a temp thing just to see what is coming out the breather . You will notice down the left hand side of the engine photoed - it's all oily , which is the first time I've seen any oil drips, two small patches on the floor - odd where it seems to be coming from ?! I'm begging to think perhaps the best thing to do is take the car off the road and replace everything in there, carb, dizzy manifold rubber connection things , spark plugs etc etc . Today was the first big run for it ( 11 miles in one go ) and I think it got up to temp hence why it's got a few leaks now . After the run I felt the dip stick and it wasn't that hot ( apparently you can't hold it if the engine is running too hot ) it is a mess in the engine bay but at least it's a running project ! Oh and yeah I found a plastic fuel filter in there so a kick in the balls is on the cards lol - but to my defence some generous placed it behind the engine above the exhaust so it was unseen , this will be going shortly - I'm going to replace the whole line for piece of mind With regards to the carb - it's a little confusing as it appears someone has " made " this fit - look at the front bolt - it looks like the casting has been broken to fit this in ? ? This car is a proper hodge podge - but I'm going to keep going and get it right
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jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Feb 13, 2017 23:39:21 GMT
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To summarise today's findings : - water and mayo collection in the jar where the breather is supposed to fit to the air filter , this has actually helped the car run better but the stuff coming out is a little concerning ! - oil has appeared down the left side of the engine whereas before I had no oil leaks - this looks like it's coming from above the sump ?! , I guess there is some dramatic back pressure going on from the engine = worn piston rings ? - running is way better but still sounds fast , I think there is a leak somewhere - I'm guessing the carb or manifold union - engine needs a lot of work i havent set the tappets yet as there is a million and one things to do elsewhere in the engine but I know this important - I need to get new seals for the rocker cover ( next months pay ! ) I guess the big question is - with so much back pressure from the engine , is it worth getting all this new stuff for the engine or is it an expensive rebuild ? Is this worth doing on a 1600 engine ? Or should I look for a replacement ? The joys of vw beetles - the gift that keeps on giving
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jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Feb 13, 2017 23:54:18 GMT
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Well one thing I've just read - lots of science stuff cut out my new oil leak is down to not connecting the oily vapour to the air filter - apparently not having a vacuum on this makes oil blow out of some valve thing near the carb . How dumping oil into the carb makes it run better is beyond me but I shall have to source an original air filter I think
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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A proper reply comong soon. But:
Get that jar off there. don't worry about what comes out of the breather pipe. It will be oily vapour, the mayo is cos condensation has got in there.
Left hand side of engine viewed from the back?
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Seen the oil now. Thats likely coming from fuel pump pedestal or your dizzy. My momey is on fuel pump (remember when I said smell your oil? Sometimes the diaphragm splits a little letting fuel pass into the sump which also eats away at the pump oil seal and giver you poor fuel economy, more oil leaks than normal owed to thinned oil, a rising oil level and more curse word out of the breather).
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Oh and you don't have a back pressure problem. If you can do a CR check on your pistons and set those bloody valve gaps lol!
You don't need a new engine yet. If you have good CR after setting gaps, no knocks and no end float its fine. Remind me where you live again?
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Lastly... stop overthinking it. Until you fo all that lot up there ^ you cant make any diagnosis.
You need to beg borrow or steal a timing light, feeler gauges, compression meter, and a weekend of time. :-)
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Agreed that you don't need to worry so much, stop overthinking it. The carb looks fine to me. The nut on the front is because someone in the past has stripped or broken the stud off it, which always seize in there. They have then put a bolt through from the bottom, and a nut on the top. Nothing wrong with keeping that arrangement. VW engines are incredibly robust and will run with a lot of things wrong with them. My first Beetle was a 1500 with a tired old engine. With 20W50 oil in there, you could hear scraping sounds from the bearings at idle. I ran 40W70 oil in it and that filled in the clearances nicely. It had 70psi compression in #3 and 100psi in the others. It still started every time and I drove it daily for a couple of years. I even made it to an indicated 86mph on a downhill run! After upgrading to a 1600cc twin-port, I ended up selling this to a guy who put new bearings in and a new piston & barrel kit on it and reckoned that it went great in his Kombi!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Feb 14, 2017 12:17:17 GMT
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That's the other thing. If it's buggered, they are easy enough to fix with a basic tool kit. Unless your case is mullered, then you're going to struggle, but that's why we check end float
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Feb 14, 2017 12:37:02 GMT
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Oh, and before worrying about new gaskets for your rocker covers, make sure that the covers themselves are straight and flat, and the bails are tight.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Feb 14, 2017 13:16:21 GMT
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Oh, and before worrying about new gaskets for your rocker covers, make sure that the covers themselves are straight and flat, and the bails are tight. ... and FFS don't be tempted to double up the gaskets LOL
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Feb 14, 2017 17:44:15 GMT
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Glad to hear it's on the road - now your fun starts It took me a long time to accept that a Beetle is very different to the RWD stuff I normally drive (not saying better or worse - just a very different experience ) I've had very little to do with these but Mayo. On a watercooled motor I would say headgasket or condensation and lots of short trips (so engine never gets up to temp), as yours isn't water cooled... Fuel filter. I always fit a clear (glass or plastic) on my retro dailies. Would be interested to hear why plastic filters on Beetles deserve a kick in the essentials
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Feb 14, 2017 19:22:45 GMT
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Glad to hear it's on the road - now your fun starts It took me a long time to accept that a Beetle is very different to the RWD stuff I normally drive (not saying better or worse - just a very different experience ) I've had very little to do with these but Mayo. On a watercooled motor I would say headgasket or condensation and lots of short trips (so engine never gets up to temp), as yours isn't water cooled... Fuel filter. I always fit a clear (glass or plastic) on my retro dailies. Would be interested to hear why plastic filters on Beetles deserve a kick in the essentials Filter in the engine bay is what gets the hoofing in the gents veggies. You mount it under the tank or if you really must be a pain in the and want ut in the aft, pop it by the gearbox. The engine bays in these are toasty warm, lots of vibration and little sparks now and then. Remember unlike watercooled the engine bay on these is sealed tight. A leaky filter or joints means big trouble in the engine bay, nowhere for it to drain or vent to. You should have ine join on your carb, and one at your fanhouse where the solid line (that you probably don't have cos it was sacked off yonks ago) comes through the fanhouse. Aye the swing axle bugs are entertaining... under steer and over steer in quick succession and not necessarily in that order, followed by bouncing and constantly shifting rear camber with 90kg of metal hanging off the back trying to overtake you makes it fun. Luckily the OP has a 1302 so lovely IRS rear and strut front, handles almost like a modern car. Almost...
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Feb 14, 2017 19:49:16 GMT
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^ thanks fad - good to know it's just Beetle owners who get a kicked for using fuel filters so I'm ok. That oversteer you mentioned It only happened to me once (I think mine was a 1303 ?) but it was very unexpected as it was a roundabout I was very familar with, and the car was fine before and after that 1 trip. Most odd ! Lesson learned. Apologies for off-track drift, I'm out
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jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Feb 14, 2017 23:27:12 GMT
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I have a lot to do !
I will look at getting a new fuel pump, stock air filter , set the valves and replace gaskets on the rocker covers, change oil, change plugs , change fuel hose ( as someone put a plastic filter in a silly place ) get a glass filter and fit near the carb , get a stock dizzy ? New pioints and rotor arm , new manifold rubber connections ( one looks split )
That will get me a good starting point from all the gold I've been given so far ! I think I've checked the end float already - this is play on the crank pulley ? I pulled it back and forth and there doesn't seem to be any measurable movement - feels pretty tight
Fad I'm in Birmingham near the NEC - welcome for a visit anytime !
I think I have been overthinking it - I've had a hillman imp and a Vauxhall viva HB and they were soooo different to this , I think not having an oil temp gauge makes it more scarey - at least that gives you a warning before the engine goes ! Both cars previously were fairly straight forward to fix up - just replacing everything gradually . What I loved best about the imp - it was always over heating even after I replaced EVERYTHING - so I got a micra rad and fitted that in the wheel well at the front - ran perfect after that ! Beetles seem to be a bit more complicated - I was thinking of adding an oil cooler but even that is really difficult ! Does anyone know where and what T peice I need to get to install an oil temp gauge with the pressure sender by the dizzy ?
I think the combination of timing off, valves off, bad air filter, poor plugs , aftermarket dizzy , air leaks is all making it run like it is but is a testament to these cars as most old cars wouldn't drive at all with one of these problems !
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Feb 14, 2017 23:50:27 GMT
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jordy several of us have now mentioned this but from your most recent posts I'm not sure the importance of it has sunk in: Once you have done that, I would set the rocker clearances (tappets) and do a compression check (throttle must be wide open when cranking the engine). Assuming the readings you get are within acceptable ranges (someone else can chime in with what to expect) then you have established the basic health of the top end and cylinder bores of the engine and can then Move on to the carb. I guess that's the problem with so much advice flying around from people who obviously have such a wealth of knowledge and experience - but for once this piece of advice is generic regardless of what type of vehicle / engine you're looking at: If you want to be certain there are no problems with your engine that involve a complete rebuild you need to prioritise doing this before spending money replacing ancillaries such as distributor / air cleaner / carb / fuel pump etc. etc. - these things are going to be a waste of money if the real cause of issues is your engine needs to be stripped and rebuilt! As waveman1500 says with beetles you'd have to be incredibly unlucky for there to be such a serious issue BUT start with establishing there are none as your foundation to work from, you can then test and eliminate or refresh / renew everything else that bolts to the engine in a methodical way until you have completely worked through everything and are hence sure there are no more issues.
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2017 23:52:35 GMT by djefk
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Another reply coming when I am in front of a computer buddy. But don't buy a single thing yet!!!
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You don't need an oil temp gauge. There is a good reason why VW did not fit one. If you can't smell the oil, then it's not overheating.
The generator charge light is there to warn you in case you throw a fan belt. As the fan is mounted on the end of the generator shaft, as long as you are charging, then the fan is spinning.
These engines already have a very effective oil cooler, which is force-fed air from the fan. It's on the left in front of the fan housing. A secondary one should not be necessary unless you are running a really high compression ratio or doing heavy towing. Remember that these same engines also powered fully-laden vans and campers up hills on hot days.
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