heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Yeah, no homework to do really. It's my car, the dirt on it is mine too, and if I wanted it to be anything other than what it is I'd be spending my cash on the bodywork rather than the running gear. But there's names for people who want their car to look good before it goes fast. So, trying to sort out a persistent misfire on the Sierra, got to looking at the lambda sensors... Turns out some bellend has welded one of the lambda bosses on completely on the curse word, and tried to counter this by cross-threading the sensor, and then welding it in to seal it. What the actual fudge?!? What kind of haemorrhaging ring-piece thinks "Wow, I completely screwed that up, best just weld it in there, that'll fix it." A new Lambda boss would have cost all of a fiver, as opposed to giving me hours of grief. Also found that the throttle position sensor is u/s, so anyone have any clues where to find a ford/mazda TPS this side of the Atlantic? Because I'm not having any joy there!
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Quality workmanship. He'd also tied it's cable up so that it was resting against the exhaust. The melty wires are the reason I now have pretty much the whole exhaust off. I'm trying to resist the temptation to cut boxes out...
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I was looking at the H4 lights conversions for mine as well. However, I couldn't decide between crystal and slightly tint them/vs non...so I've done nothing about it :-)
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Apr 27, 2017 11:09:15 GMT
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I've had crystal H4s on for a fair while now, and I wouldn't go back if you paid me. the difference is very worthwhile. The only reason I'm putting new ones in is due to one wing getting adjusted by a tractor at some stage, cracking the lens in the process. So, I welded in a new arch on the back. First major panel repair I've done, and it's pretty damn scary cutting a massive hole in the side of the car! Happy with the result though, and gives me confidence that I can tackle a few more of the jobs it needs doing. I tried to work out wattagwan with the x-link axle location kit I got from eBlag many moons ago. It just plain won't fit. The arms are too long, or the U-bolts foul the ARB, no way around that. I really didn't want to hack into the spanky BZP, but it looks like I'll have to. I'm guessing I'll have to bend the arms somewhat to accommodate the lowering blocks. Anyone done this before?
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Don't know why I bothered changing the timing gear, the old tensioner blade looks fine! Timing guides and tensioner all reassembled, high-lift cams in, and the majority of the engine back together. I even trimmed the AC section off the crank pulley, in an effort to loose a little rotating mass. Roose Motorsport hoses waiting in the wings eagerly.
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Looking at your pics, and from when I used to use the x-frame kit... I'm not sure why you're putting the x-frame brackets over the anti-roll bar brackets? They go all the way inboard towards the centre of the axle. A quick google (not mine) and here's how they should mount: Hope that helps.
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Looking at your pics, and from when I used to use the x-frame kit... I'm not sure why you're putting the x-frame brackets over the anti-roll bar brackets? They go all the way inboard towards the centre of the axle. A quick google (not mine) and here's how they should mount: Hope that helps. Interesting to see them mounted up without a car in the way, thanks! They severely foul my ARB if I mount them like that, the two outermost u-bolts won't fit behind the ARB. I thought about trying to adjust it, but there's no point in it being there if I heat it and bend it, it'll loose all it's spring, and I don't have time to re-make the ARB mounts on the axle yet. Maybe it's because mine's a 1.6 axle with a 2.8i ARB or something, but there just isn't room to fit it with the ARB on. I'll get a pic in a bit to demonstrate.
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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If you've fitted a set of H4 headlights, why not fit a second set in the inner light position and have double the headlight power? you may wish to fit an isolator for the dipped beam on the inner set so they become switchable (possibly for MOT and urban driving, and have them aimed a touch lower just to head off any claims that the extra lights are dazzling on coming traffic. plus stick them all on relays (if they aren't already) and make the most of the available lighting power.
just a thought.
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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I thought about that, but I quite like the way it looks with the empty sockets, so I'll either use them for ducts, or maybe fit a set of projectors back inside them, so they look empty until the lights come on.
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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May 23, 2017 21:19:49 GMT
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rob86
Part of things
Posts: 84
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Jun 25, 2017 20:16:34 GMT
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Wheels look sharp! Any updates?
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Nope, festival season has started, so i won't lift a spanner in anger on this until late september. It really gets in the way of proper progress!
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