Glasurit clear-coats. Talk to me (T. Tibbs)

[foxy99]

Anyone know why Glasurit do so many different clears? They all seem to be '2K' but you get HS, MS, scratch-resistant, racing clear.

Each one seems to require a different hardner (929-666; 929-33 etc etc) and/or thinner.

What happens if you mix the wrong hardener with the wrong clear? Surely it can't be tantamount to mixing synthetic thinners with cellulose paint or 2K activator with 1K acrylic.

I like the look of 923-666 clear. You can use it at room temp, pot-life is 2 hours,you apparently don't need a reducer/thinner. Just hardener 929-666.

Who's used them all and knows what's best?

[foxy99]

Well I didn't get any responses last time but hey this time - you never know...

(actually got a lot of input on another THREAD I started about necessity of 2K paints in general but none on this)

So. I've now got an air-fed mask and a 2nd compressor to supply air, separate from the spray gun and am going to buy some Glasurit clear.

On Ebay just now there are some reasonably priced tins: 923-155; 923-35; 923-666

What's best?

[Deleted]

In response to both your posts - firstly well done on sorting a positive feed mask and the air supply for it - there are a lot of incorrect assumptions made with 2K refinishing products - most of the assumptions being nothing but foolish if not very dangerous and although great strides have been made to remove the isocyanate content from most 2k paints / finishes / products the fact remains that without the correct equipment you are applying a fast setting paint bond to the lining of your lungs - there is no face mask / non air fed mask in the market that will prevent this.

Glasurit is a leading brand in the refinishing market and market a good range of products - A range of 18 clearcoat finishes - to give some answers to the points you raise - MS = Medium solids / HS = High solids - referring to the density of the product and how quick a depth / build / film that is applied with the product - Anti scratch = what it says - its a good product but very hard work to flat / polish back once cured due to the nature of what it is - fine for OEM but personally I would avoid using it - Racing clear - fine for small / minor repairs - very quick curing - great for smart repairs / bumper corners etc - don't use on full panels / resprays - The 923-666 that you list is a good all rounder but with no thinner - maybe easy to use but will probably leave a peel type finish when applied - personally I would not use it - 923-35 is another scratch resistant clearcoat - again difficult to rework / polish etc - I would not recommend it in your case - 923-155 is a medium solids clearcoat could be ok but have never used it

Here is the link to the Glasurit clearcoats section of their informative website which has clear detailed info on their clearcoats range

www.glasurit.com/en-int/products/pc/clearcoat

Out of all of them I would use the 923-335 which would be good for anything from a single panel to a complete car

Based on many, many years of experience I would stick to not mixing product types for the sake of a few quid - even £50 / £100 in the case of painting a complete car - use exactly the correct hardeners / thinners with the paint / clearcoat that the manufacture / supplier recommends

Believe me that there is nothing worse that having to do the job again when the paint / clearcoat crazes / fades/ micro blisters / dulls / grow legs & jumps off etc and for the sake of following the correct instructions - no apologies for the lecture there is nothing worse than having to do the job twice

Let us all know how you get on - better still post some pics up - Good luck - Chris

[foxy99]

Thanks for the info G'n'. That's a good link showing all the clears set out together. I've used Glasurit etch primer and epoxy primer before and bough the correct activators and thinners each time. I believe in following instructions to the letter and once had a bad experience with 1K clear that looked great initially but crazed completely a couple of weeks later.

It was Mipa C10 and the motor factors I bought it from didn't looked pleased when I asked for a data sheet. They asked my why and I saif 'for thinning ratios etc' and he told me 50/50 with cellulose thinners....

Many years later when I had internet I found out that it's a RFU product and not cellulose so that was bad advice.

Anyway. Thanks again for the input and I will put some pictures up once I get going. I've done quite a bit of spraying before and was pretty pleased with my work but that was all 1K. Be interesting to see what I can achieve with the 2K clears