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I have some american wheels that it would be great if I could reduce the offset of a little.
Sleeve nut type fitting, 3/4" thick where bolt passes.
On the inside the holes are in a raised star area. I'm guessing I can get this mounting face area machined a bit to reduce offset, but by how much?
The raised area is 12mm above the rest of the wheel. Id love to take 6-10mm off that leaving 1/2" or so of wheel thickness for the bolts.
Ok? Too thin?
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Probably. I can see taking a few mm off but not 10..
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10mm may be too much.
The centers are thick though, 1" thick. The bolt holes are recessed 1/4 inch into that.
If I took 1/4" off, the wheel center would still be 3/4" thick solid disc over most of the wheel face with the bolt hole areas 1/2" thick.
Still seems like plenty of material to me, but I am no pro.
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I had this done on some revolutions that had a really chunky centre. MY problem was finding somewhere with the correct tooling for doing it. The places that can are expensive.
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I had this done on some revolutions that had a really chunky centre. MY problem was finding somewhere with the correct tooling for doing it. The places that can are expensive. What did it cost? I was assuming someone would just bolt them in a mill and mill it off rather than turn it. I was sort of guessing/hoping £20 a wheel should do it. |
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It ended up costing me £300 to do 2 wheels. I had to have the front faces of each wheel checked to ensure they were parallel to the mounting face, then they could be laid flat in a milling bench and machined down. The cost was high due to the setup time and the number of passes to get 10 mm off. Don't let that put you off, you might find someone who can get the job done for less. I couldn't at the time and I was in a hurry!
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Wow!
Ill see what a few places say. If It cant be done its no big deal, be nice if I could though.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Chuck one on a mill bed and try a pass to see how flat they are . A 2 thou pass will tell you straight away how flat it is . They aren't going to be spinning at 150mph so I doubt you'd have any issues that couldn't be balanced out with weights ,might be worth chucking the bare rim on a tyre balancer to see if the outer rim is true
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Chuck one on a mill bed and try a pass to see how flat they are . A 2 thou pass will tell you straight away how flat it is . They aren't going to be spinning at 150mph so I doubt you'd have any issues that couldn't be balanced out with weights ,might be worth chucking the bare rim on a tyre balancer to see if the outer rim is true That was my thoughts too. If the center isnt true to the rim, it wants to be, and it will be once milled. Ill get them spun up and see how straight they are first. |
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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If i gets all the centre with a couple of passes it can't be far out
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I've done a few wheels in a lathe
Just held them in soft jaws and tapped them till they ran true on the dti. Need a big chuck for that mind you. The machine we had had a 25" chuck
Just take light cuts and they won't pop out.
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I've done a few wheels in a lathe Just held them in soft jaws and tapped them till they ran true on the dti. Need a big chuck for that mind you. The machine we had had a 25" chuck Just take light cuts and they won't pop out. Unfortunately the wheels are a bit of a tight fit in my 1902 3.5"x14" drummond  I assumed it would be easier and therefore cheaper for someone to mill them. Ill see what some places say. |
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Curtis
Part of things
Posts: 622
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I would check how much the taper (if there is one) is recessed into the bolt holes. If you mill off the back of the hub face and meet the tapers, the further you go the wider the holes will get. Go too far and the wheel will just strip itself from the hub. The majority of wheels you can safely mill 2/3mm off the back, but not much more than that
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Driving:
Shitbox Honda S-MX |
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I would check how much the taper (if there is one) is recessed into the bolt holes. If you mill off the back of the hub face and meet the tapers, the further you go the wider the holes will get. Go too far and the wheel will just strip itself from the hub. The majority of wheels you can safely mill 2/3mm off the back, but not much more than that Its a straight hole, no taper. I went to local engineers and they will do them on their lathe. £15 a wheel  holding off for now as I need to get a test tyre to check exactly what id want taking off. |
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Could you not machine a bit off the druns / discs too? Rather than all off the wheel
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