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Chris - Two fairly straight forward questions (I hope) to add to my catalogue of questions..
1. I vaguely remember from years gone by being advised to cut sheet metal with tin snips (a pain with my ancient pair) in preference to a hacksaw. Am I correct and if so what is the reason? 2. On one of your other threads you appear to have filled various small rust holes with rivets which I assume will be filled and dressed back. I have not seen this technique before. Am I correct with my description as it will be useful for me with various amounts of small holes. I take it that any remaining rust at the back of the panel will be neutralied with cavity wax in due course.
Thank BW
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On the subject of tin-snips, make sure you use them properly. I had almost abandoned them because I always get a rough edge, which turned out (not surprisingly) to be my fault. My basic error was using the wrong type - my best pair of snips were yellow ones, which are straight edge and only really useful for making v-cuts in stuff. I now have a decent pair of red ones, which are used for cutting off to the left of a panel, which suits me as I'm left-handed. I also have a reasonable pair of greens for the odd occasion where I have no choice but to cut down the right side.
The other two tips were - never try to cut more than 1/4" off the side of a panel, and don't let the blades close on your cut.
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Chris - Two fairly straight forward questions (I hope) to add to my catalogue of questions.. 1. I vaguely remember from years gone by being advised to cut sheet metal with tin snips (a pain with my ancient pair) in preference to a hacksaw. Am I correct and if so what is the reason? 2. On one of your other threads you appear to have filled various small rust holes with rivets which I assume will be filled and dressed back. I have not seen this technique before. Am I correct with my description as it will be useful for me with various amounts of small holes. I take it that any remaining rust at the back of the panel will be neutralied with cavity wax in due course. Thank BW A decent pair of aviation type snips are a brilliant piece of kit and provide a quick method of cutting sheet steel whilst also leaving a clean edge (unlike a hacksaw) but don't purchase the cheap rubbish sets they will just frustrate you - I use the Teng Tools range the more expensive range in the link below but the cheaper priced range would be fine for your requirements www.tengtools.com/r/gb/en/search?search=tin+snips+&search=On using the rivets for the holes - I have only used them on the alloy body of the Jupiter due the type of alloy that I'm working with (Brimabright) which is a magnesium alloy that is virtually impossible to weld - No reason why you could not use them on steel but they need to be countersunk sealed head rivets
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Thanks Chris and Droopsnoot. Will I need the set of three or just a single pair. I, like D/S, am left handed. I believe that they can also be used upside down if needed. I think that the pair that I have at the moment used to belong to Noah as used on the refurb of the Ark?
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Thanks Chris and Droopsnoot. Will I need the set of three or just a single pair. I, like D/S, am left handed. I believe that they can also be used upside down if needed. I think that the pair that I have at the moment used to belong to Noah as used on the refurb of the Ark? They are handy things to have but if you are not using them all the time a straight set should be all that you need
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I can get Stanley Fatmax from my trade warehouse. Are they any good or just cashing in on a well known brand name?
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I can get Stanley Fatmax from my trade warehouse. Are they any good or just cashing in on a well known brand name? Should be ok for what you are using them for - Stanley Tools once upon a time were a favoured Sheffield based brand and produced some good stuff - like most companies today a lot of what they retail will be made in the far east and have their name stamped on it - still should be ok
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Just need them to shape half a dozen small 'let in' bits of steel to replace rusted areas in the hardtop and a door frame. Previously aluminium mesh backed with filler over the top, from when I had no money or skill and didn't know any better.
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2020 21:49:07 GMT by Badwolf
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That video was very informative. I’ve only got a straight set as I thought the others were for going around left and right bends. Now I can see where I’ve been going wrong all these years.
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I re-discovered this while looking for something else. There are no doubt plenty of other horror videos about but I share this one with you. It is not for the faint hearted and (in Chris's case) needs to be watched with several large gins along with a 'therapy cat' on your knee to stroke to relieve the stresses which it will envoke.
Chris - Don't let Sid actually watch the video, with his high QA/QC standards, it may cause a long lasting tramatic effect, maybe even CATastrophic.....
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Last Edit: Aug 9, 2020 18:46:34 GMT by Badwolf
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ems1
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 295
Club RR Member Number: 5
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Body & Paint Threadems1
@ems1
Club Retro Rides Member 5
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I've noticed a lot of paint bubbles on the Manta. A respray is out of the question for a couple of years so would it be better to leave them or should I get rid of the bubbles and treat any possible rust? Unfortunately the car is outside all year round so this doesn't help.
Thanks
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1985 Manta GT/E 16v 2001 VW T4 Caravelle
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I've noticed a lot of paint bubbles on the Manta. A respray is out of the question for a couple of years so would it be better to leave them or should I get rid of the bubbles and treat any possible rust? Unfortunately the car is outside all year round so this doesn't help. Thanks Any chance of a few pics so I know what I'm looking at
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ems1
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 295
Club RR Member Number: 5
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Body & Paint Threadems1
@ems1
Club Retro Rides Member 5
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I'll get some tomorrow.
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1985 Manta GT/E 16v 2001 VW T4 Caravelle
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Aug 10, 2020 13:04:40 GMT
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I re-discovered this while looking for something else. There are no doubt plenty of other horror videos about but I share this one with you. It is not for the faint hearted and (in Chris's case) needs to be watched with several large gins along with a 'therapy cat' on your knee to stroke to relieve the stresses which it will envoke. Chris - Don't let Sid actually watch the video, with his high QA/QC standards, it may cause a long lasting tramatic effect, maybe even CATastrophic..... Just be thankful that you don't own one his former projects and if he paints panels like that I hate see what the quality of his welding is
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Aug 10, 2020 14:45:56 GMT
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There are sequels, but even I'm not ready for those yet. I think he's done clutch too
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Last Edit: Aug 10, 2020 14:50:28 GMT by Badwolf
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Aug 11, 2020 19:27:40 GMT
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Now back to some sort of sanity.
There are numerous grades of paper/mesh discs for a D/A sander. Without having to stock some of every grade, what are the grades most popular/useful, starting from 'I have just covered the metal in Hydrate 80 and want to get it right'.. onwards. I do have a good selection but want to make sure that I use the right grade for the right job. After applying use this... 1. H80 (P120/P180) 2. Hibuild primer 3. Mist coat 4. Filler 5. Dolphin Glaze 6. Top coat (Cellulose) I appreciate that some sections will go around in circles until its right (ie. filler/mist coat)
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Last Edit: Aug 11, 2020 19:47:28 GMT by Badwolf
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ems1
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 295
Club RR Member Number: 5
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Body & Paint Threadems1
@ems1
Club Retro Rides Member 5
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Aug 11, 2020 21:21:46 GMT
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Picture of some of the bubbles in the paint.
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1985 Manta GT/E 16v 2001 VW T4 Caravelle
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I can get Stanley Fatmax from my trade warehouse. Are they any good or just cashing in on a well known brand name? My nice new red left-cut snips are Stanley Fatmax, and I've found them to be great. Far better than the red ones that were in the set of three I'd previously bought.
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Aug 12, 2020 12:06:54 GMT
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Are those rust bubbles or moisture bubbles do you think?
Difficult to tell from the photo but they look like moisture in the paint to me. Has it had a car cover over it?
If moisture in the paint you can afford to just leave it for a while as it's probably (hopefully) not touching bare metal but sandwiched in the middle of the paint.
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Aug 12, 2020 12:32:57 GMT
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Now back to some sort of sanity. There are numerous grades of paper/mesh discs for a D/A sander. Without having to stock some of every grade, what are the grades most popular/useful, starting from 'I have just covered the metal in Hydrate 80 and want to get it right'.. onwards. I do have a good selection but want to make sure that I use the right grade for the right job. After applying use this... 1. H80 (P120/P180) 2. Hibuild primer 3. Mist coat 4. Filler 5. Dolphin Glaze 6. Top coat (Cellulose) I appreciate that some sections will go around in circles until its right (ie. filler/mist coat) Apologies I meant to respond to this last night firstly your order / method process is in the wrong order - listed below is the order that I would undertake the work in - reasons for this is that you risk shrinkage of the filler if applying over the primer plus you also carry the risk of sanding through the primer whilst sanding the filler back and finally you need the Hi Build to do exactly what its intended to do and build a depth of cover over any repaired areas including the filled areas 1: Hydrate 80 - use what ever you need over the panel to obtain a bare metal surface and finish with P80 - lightly key once cured with with P120 2: Filler - profile back with P80 3: Dolphin Glaze over the filler + any small undulations / minor repair areas - sand back with P80 initially then finish with P120 - P180 4: Hi Build Primer + guide coat (matt black aerosol once the primer has cured) - sand back wet with P400 initially then P600 - P800 5: Mist coat followed by several coats of coats of cellulose colour 6: Wet flat with P1500 / P2000 prior to polishing once the colour coats are fully cured but I suggest that you leave it for 2 - 3 weeks before doing so Let me know if you need any further info
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